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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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Downpipe flange leakViews : 1420 Replies : 31Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Feb 8th, 2022, 21:34 | #21 |
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Thanks Steve
Well. I won't be able to really fix it for a while. In Barcelona I live in an apartment and don't have a place to work at, let alone do a job of this magnitude. I hope it holds up another year or so. Also having a weird deceleration noise, which is worrying me more than the leak right now. But that's another issue. It's gonna be a fun drive. 1200km. Our cars are so freaking amazing to drive. It's a pleasure. Hope you find time to do it soon. And good luck. Cheers, Salvador |
Feb 8th, 2022, 21:55 | #22 |
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That gasket can be added between the turbo and manifold not the downpipe. No gasket is needed in either location
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Feb 9th, 2022, 08:48 | #23 |
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Mistake
You are correct, my mistake, I misread the question.
It is my experience though that the nuts of the downpipe connection need retensioning every now and then. |
Feb 9th, 2022, 11:12 | #24 | |
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Getting all the nuts tight on the joint is also a bit of chore and tricky, so check them first. |
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Feb 9th, 2022, 11:36 | #25 |
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Update: It seems that mechanic was right, the smoke was just dw40 burning off. Today with cold engine it didn't smoke much if at all. Neither is it smoking with the engine hot. So i guess for now the exhaust putty did work and the turbo to manifold connection seems to not be leaking.
My car does leak a bit between turbo and manifold enough to make soap bubble and it has a gasket, probably the 850 one, put in in 2019, 40k km ago. So i guess it will probably hold on for a while. We also discovered a leak right after cat, we didn't put putty because the car was already hot. |
Feb 9th, 2022, 11:58 | #26 |
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Pic of the cat leak and another leak on the resonator (that's the resonator right? Before the muffler?) that I'm embarrassed to have missed until now. What the hell. It's a huge crack.
Last edited by SalvadorP; Feb 9th, 2022 at 12:00. |
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Feb 9th, 2022, 12:08 | #27 | |
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Btw, out of curiosity. I've read about not using SS studs on the aluminium head, what about the alloy head is that alright? Or original studs are a must? I'm not doing that job now, for sure. But for future reference. |
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Feb 10th, 2022, 12:20 | #28 | |
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Mild steel is the best choice, it will be alot stronger than stainless. Stainless will corrode less because its less reactive, but also its equipotential is closer to Aluminium. However corrosion is slow on these. I've never changed or snapped any on a red block. I have tried stainless metal locking (aviation) nuts, they seem ok. |
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Feb 10th, 2022, 19:11 | #29 | |
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So, it's not absolutely necessary to change them everytime you mess with them? But i guess you should at least have spares just in case. I thought i read it was advisable to change them because they are probe to snapping. |
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Feb 10th, 2022, 19:28 | #30 | |
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