Rough starting when hot.

[klunk]

'Older VW/Audi diesels are often oil drippers and burners' What and Renault arent? Ive previously owned a 94 Seat Ibiza 1.9D (VW) and a 96 Audi A4 1.9TDI, Both were brilliant, Never dripped or burnt oil in 200K Miles and were sold on to cover even more mileage.

[artiedtke]

Jeez, consider myself told or what.

Everyones entitled to an opinion but I can't see how yours is relevant to my original question ? Maybe I've misread something.

The only sense I've had so far is from Martin suggesting the ECT sensor, no offence to any other contributors.

[skyship007]

Originally Posted by klunk

Sod the environment, Theres enough other stuff out there pumping out even more cr@p! Heavy industry springs to mind? Oh BTW, 850 TDI's arent common rail and dont have a priming pump!

Out of order for a Volvo forum!
Oddly enough cars produce far more local inner city pollution in the EU than heavy industry, until you get to the Polish border, where their coal fired power stations lack good filters, although Northern Poland is OK (Stronger winds anyway).
Germany has one car related pollution black spot around the Stuttgart area (Sort of a light wind bowl area with far too many cars in it) at times and they have cut the speed limits to prevent boy racers for smoking the place out.

I do still get my hands dirty with aircraft piston engines on occasions and even the odd Ford engine when working in the US. I try not to get involved with trainee ginger beers, but on odd occasions have had to intervene with Porsche 911 or IO 540 engines. The former is one tricky engine to rebuild correctly, so that it does not leak oil in particular. Oddly enough the aero engine version of the 270 hp turbo is de-tuned to around 250 hp by removing the intercooler, to match the gearbox and prop limits. The Contis are 300 hp direct drives, so simple to work on.
The BBC funded my last project (Cloud Lab, BBC 2), but I still don't have a confirmed release date for the first of 2 films.

[skyship007]

Originally Posted by klunk

'Older VW/Audi diesels are often oil drippers and burners' What and Renault arent? Ive previously owned a 94 Seat Ibiza 1.9D (VW) and a 96 Audi A4 1.9TDI, Both were brilliant, Never dripped or burnt oil in 200K Miles and were sold on to cover even more mileage.

They only last that long if good quality oil is used. Most VW TDI owners try to use higher Zinc additive HDEO's (Or LM additives) to prevent premature cam and bearing wear. Alas those oils often are not so good for the life of the CAT, although they don't make a real big difference until the engine is well worn.

The VW spec oils are bad news without extra additives for an engine pushed hard on the autobahn, as they are only good for emissions component and fuel economy. Often a bit on the thin side as well.
VW TDI's are a drippers nightmare in Germany and it's obvious just looking at car parking places and the number that just run out of oil!

How they are driven is also a big factor and they might well do better in the UK, as the 70 mph limit prevents the use of sustained high power settings.

[skyship007]

Originally Posted by artiedtke

Jeez, consider myself told or what.

Everyones entitled to an opinion but I can't see how yours is relevant to my original question ? Maybe I've misread something.

The only sense I've had so far is from Martin suggesting the ECT sensor, no offence to any other contributors.

Several of us listed sensors, although quite why a defective one is not throwing a fault code I don't know.

The other thing is to look up exactly how this diesel is bled after an injector or the fuel filter is changed. Start with the fuel filter change first (Inc new seals) and see if the prime or top up procedure solves the hot start issue. If that does not cure it (Bad fuel filter seals most likely or electric feed pump trouble causing a tiny air leak into the fuel feed), then move along to the injector change prime section to see if there is a leak. Seems less likely as a post injection pump leak should be obvious from smell and drips. Odds on, it is sucking air in between the tank and injection pump, if it's not a fault code free sensor or injection timing.

I would also look up or ask in the exact type forum what this engine does if you pull the temp or other sensor plug off when hot starting (Limp mode for many engines), as that might indicate which one is kaput. If you pull the plug and it starts OK, then the sensor has been sending the wrong signal. Any of them that had their wiring disturbed during the belt changes should be top of the list to check.

[martin_r_smith]

Originally Posted by artiedtke

Jeez, consider myself told or what.

Everyones entitled to an opinion but I can't see how yours is relevant to my original question ? Maybe I've misread something.

The only sense I've had so far is from Martin suggesting the ECT sensor, no offence to any other contributors.

I told you to ignore him straight away as I knew what was coming! The muppet does to every thread he posts on. It really is quite annoying. And then waffles on about irrelevant topics, literally having a conversation with himself.

Back to topic..

You may well see some odd readings for ect but not always. At least it is a nice cheap place to start anyway just replacing the sensor. My next idea would be a small air leak when warm but to be honest it's unlikely. If it did leak then it would still be hard to start after leaving to cool down as it would have still sacked in air.

[klunk]

Originally Posted by artiedtke

The only sense I've had so far is from Martin suggesting the ECT sensor, no offence to any other contributors.

Cheers! Seem to recall telling you to check the pump timing with a DTI? Bad bit of advice that, Hope you sort it.

[skyship007]

@Martin, Why don't you use the block function ??
It's a public forum, so some folks do like reading, if you don't, just use the block function.

PS: If this engine does not log fault codes (Check what happens when an easy to access temp sensor plug is pulled), then buying new parts might prove expensive if it's the wrong one. Not sure what Volvo charge for a codes check, but if they are not busy it might be possible to see if something shows up using their system.

I've had trouble from fuel feed pumps causing hot start issues and I know the early ECU Fords or GM engines did not throw a code for faults before the injection pump, so that might be the case here.
Most Volvo dealers have a fairly clued up senior inspector who will probably know what is wrong anyway, although my local one is hopeless, as he just repeats what the manager wants to sell in the way of new parts. I'm sure he knows but keeps telling everyone with odd engine noises, that it's the alternator.

[martin_r_smith]

Originally Posted by klunk

Cheers! Seem to recall telling you to check the pump timing with a DTI? Bad bit of advice that, Hope you sort it.

That's not bad advice mate, I check mine with a dti nowadays but I still use vol for time to time to make sure I'm not way out.

I found the price for the ECT I used, £14.75. Not a genuine volvo but for a poxy sensor like that I personally don't care. For other things like filters and water pumps it's volvo only for me (probably the only thing me and the grinch have in common). Mine has worked fine for 40+K so it's 14.75 well spent in my opinion.

Hope you get it sorted without too much more nonsense.

[artiedtke]

Originally Posted by klunk

Cheers! Seem to recall telling you to check the pump timing with a DTI? Bad bit of advice that, Hope you sort it.

Oh come on. You know what I meant. ;-) Yes and that aswell. Although VOL-FCR says everything is spot on.

Hope you've not taken offence.