high hc-- emissions

[MazakMan]

Originally Posted by rippedoffagain

I believe the early fuel injected 200s and 700s had a 'cold start' injector, which added more fuel, thus making it run rich, when the engine was cold. I've heard tales of these sticking part open so that you constantly burn more fuel, and I've heard tales of temp senders causing the ECU to think the engine is still cold, therefore keeping the extra fuel coming in for longer.

The cold start injector in K-jet only operates when cranking not when running. All cold running enrichment is facilitated by the control pressure regulator.

There is no ECU and the temperature sender only drives the temperature gauge in the dash.

Isaac

[MazakMan]

Originally Posted by padjoe

...is the temperature sender and thermal timer, two different parts as i cant find 2 parts on cylinder head

Yes they are two parts but since neither controls how the engine runs I wouldn't bother changing them.
The thermal time switch is towards the bottom right at the back of the head and the temperature sender is more or less in the middle - both are on the inlet side.

Isaac

[MazakMan]

Originally Posted by rippedoffagain

Sorry, don't know about purging the fuel system. It is supposed to be possible by apply a vacuum to the thin hose between the the fuel pressure regulator and the inlet manifold, and another way I've read is to pull the fuel pump relay then crank the engine over, but someone else is going to have to advise on that because I've never done either method.

This isn't for K-jet, the pressure regulator is internal to the metering head.

If you want to purge K-jet just jump the fuel pump relay and lift the air flow flap, if it's still got air locks crack the fuel lines off at the injectors and bleed it out. Not that you should need to do this as it should just sort itself out. Obviously you'll want to pull the injectors out of the head before doing this or you'll bollox the oil nicely

Isaac

[Clifford Pope]

Ref oil separator - for "dip switch" read of course dip stick.

[padjoe]

okay now i am thinking trouble
replaced ht leads on at a time
replaced cap and rotor (which was different shape it was the one with the spring
and the old one wasnt )
cleaned flame trap
took of aux air valve had a look in seems fine everythin then replaced and it didnt start
it chugged a bit on first try then stopped then i tried it again and just as it was about to start a pop with a hiss and it stopped
i went to engine bay and saw smoke coming from-
i think its called the co2 control screw (right behind the plastic cone )

[rippedoffagain]

Originally Posted by padjoe

okay now i am thinking trouble
replaced ht leads on at a time
replaced cap and rotor (which was different shape it was the one with the spring and the old one wasnt)
cleaned flame trap
took of aux air valve had a look in seems fine everythin then replaced and it didnt start
it chugged a bit on first try then stopped then i tried it again and just as it was about to start a pop with a hiss and it stopped
i went to engine bay and saw smoke coming from-
i think its called the co2 control screw (right behind the plastic cone )

I know its a daft question, but when you did the ignition, did you make sure you put the leads on the right connections?

I have no idea what the CO2 control screw is, but someone will know I'm sure.

[padjoe]

took one lead off and replaced it before moving on to he next so they should be on right
does the cap go on a specific way because thats wat i was thinking

[rippedoffagain]

Originally Posted by padjoe

took one lead off and replaced it before moving on to he next so they should be on right
does the cap go on a specific way because thats wat i was thinking

It does, but only so that the main lead comes out the bottom. I've heard tales of the rotor arm not seating in properly, but I haven't experienced that because when I did mine, with the help of my mate, it was my mate that did that bit. He said they can appear to have gone on fine, but there is a knack to getting them to go on properly.

[padjoe]

yep i will double check but there is a guide inside the rotor arm, placed it on and pushed it down you can feel it go into place
my major worry is the smoke from the co2 adjust seems strange and scary
and to clarify before the car died the sound was a hiss then a pop as if a pressurized pipe blew off but i havent found anythin yet
i did move the cold start injecter and a squirt came out from union when i check the engine whin it had stopped i didnt smell any petrol shuold i tighten the union just incase but i dont want to break it

[jetronic63]

If you have high HC and low CO, it sounds like the mixture is too lean. As you have suggested, try doing the injector seals. This made a massive difference to mine both on emissions and tickover. (I got my seals from Volvo BTW so I cant answer your question about the G&S ones).