B200F Head Gasket Change ... couple of querie ..

[Paul240480]

Opps, yeh F not E the clue is there for me to see, should try to engage brain before typing, lol.

That pipe is the same on mine... Took me an age to work out why I couldn't free the pump till I found it, lol

IIRC it does take water to the heater matrix.

[loki_the_glt]

A crow-foot socket will grab some of the manifold nuts and, in conjunction with the appropriate ratchet handle, slacken off and re-fasten the nuts.

I bought a "Sidewinder" ratchet handle in the States that has a T-handle that lets you access nuts where a socket will fit but not a conventional ratchet handle. A friend described it as ideal for manifold nuts, which it is.

[Stephen Edwin]

So fare, the exhaust manifold is free to remove. Four nuts are free on the inlet manifold using the 3/8 socket set. I'm not sure how a crow foot would help with my set up so I think I'll be moving on to a spanner for the other four nuts.

The top part of the cambelt cover, the alternator belts, the power steering belt, the fan, fan shroud and radiator are all removed.

So far so good.

Two little questions at this stage please ....

1. Once the crankshaft nut is undone, if I need a puller to remove the pulley, what sort of puller will I need?

2. Close to one head bolt at an offset angle there is an open round hole. What the devil is that? Other similar holes seem to be "plugged".

*****

P.S. A previous owner removed the cold start valve. During this job I've been removing the left over bits. Including the metal hose that used to go form the exhaust manifold to the air filter housing. so :

(a) The bottom of the air filter housing has a redundant wide air hose connector. Can I obtain a housing without that "nozzle"?

(b) The bracket holding the coil is a bit of a gantry. I think it used to hold the cold start valve or something to do with it? Can I obtain a simple bracket to hold the coil?

Perhaps in both instances, fitments from earlier models of the car?

*****

P.P.S. I'm enjoying this so far. .... I'm wondering about how to lift that head, it is set so well back in the engine compartment ....


Oh, and I think stainless M8 nuts and washers and some copper based grease for the exhaust manifold studs when re-assembling?

[Stephen Edwin]

Having found details of that sidewinder ratchet, I can see that would help. Thanks.

Hmmm .... I think I've got a Stanley ratchet somewhere that works on a similar concept ........

[stephend]

Not sure about your engine, since it's an F (mine's an E). I guess yours is the twin-cam 16v?

Originally Posted by Stephen Edwin

1. Once the crankshaft nut is undone, if I need a puller to remove the pulley, what sort of puller will I need?

I don't recall if I needed a puller, but if so it was just a standard reversible Draper one, 'cos that's what I've got.

2. Close to one head bolt at an offset angle there is an open round hole. What the devil is that? Other similar holes seem to be "plugged".

Oil feed or drain for cam lubrication, at a guess?

P.S. A previous owner removed the cold start valve. During this job I've been removing the left over bits. Including the metal hose that used to go form the exhaust manifold to the air filter housing. so :

Not sure what the cold start valve is. The metal hose that goes from the exhaust manifold to the air filter housing is just to duct hot air into the inlet in cold weather. There's usually some kind of waxstat flap in the air inlet that allows either cold or hot air through to the air filter. The missing hose is unlikely to make much of a difference. As for the cold start valve, I note that the sole reference in Mr Haynes is the statement "cold start valve upstream of injectors on some models not covered by this manual". Doh!

P.P.S. I'm enjoying this so far. .... I'm wondering about how to lift that head, it is set so well back in the engine compartment ....

Great! The 8v head isn't too heavy, so quite easy to lift out by hand. Dunno about the 16v head, but shouldn't imagine it's that heavy. Maybe get someone to be an extra pair of hands just to be on the safe side?

[Anadinolin]

Sounds like you are doing a proper job of this!!

if you need help, I'm only round the corner Did similar in my 460, but i have a B18U, which sounds a little less complicated lol

[Stephen Edwin]

I have removed the crankshaft nut and the pulley. Yes I used the special tool. That special tool is just a strong suitably shaped "lump" of metal. The words below are just spelling it out in case anyone might be thinking about buying the tool. But basically, the tool is easy peazy to use. The spaecial tool just has to be the simplest easiest most definite to work possible way of locking the crankshaft. Unless you know differently ............

The tming belt tensioner stud has already been exposed. Now remove the nut and very thick heavy washer from that timing belt tensioner stud.

Three lugs at the bottom end of the tool engage with holes in the crankshaft pulley. A hole in the top end of the tool goes over the timing belt tensioner stud in place of the very heavy washer that has been removed, and then the nut goes back on that stud to hold the tool in place. Lots of words to explain but it is very simple in the nitty gritty of doing it, and the crankshaft is then locked.

I can see why people like to use an impact tool for the crankshaft pulley bolt. If you use a swivel handle, breaker bar, do use the longest one you have or can borrow or acquire.

I used the necessary 24mm socket, a hex impact socket to get best grip. Together with a 24 inch swivel handle or breaker bar. At first it seemed like, oh heck this will never shift. I found it best to not use any extension between the socket and the handle. I pulled the lever with my right hand and with the left hand pushed against the thermostat housing. And then the bolt undid smoothly. I am small built and that's just how I managed to get the force applied.

The pulley did wriggle off yes. Haynes says if one needs a puller, use one that screws in to the pulley, to avoid damaging the pulley. But. On my pulley there's nothing to screw in to. So for my future reference, has anyone needed a puller? If so what sort of puller has anyone used that they found OK to do this job without damaging the pulley please?

I shall do some more on this job soon.

[Paul240480]

Good news
I've done my cambelt twice. Both times no pullers needed. Pulley just easily came away

[Stephen Edwin]

The inlet manifold nuts are undone. The support bracket below the manifold is disconnected form the manifold. So far so good. A&E have ordered replacement fingers for the ones I damaged whilst removing those nuts. Sadly I myself am a long discontinued model so the spare fingers may be impossible to obtain.

I am very close to removing the head now. ..... No. Not removing MY head ......

But I am bovvered about that little hole in the head that I mentioned before. Not measured by me yet, I'd guess about 3/8 inch. I was way wrong where it is. It is just above number three inlet port. Probing gently the hole I'm asking about seems to have something soft a short way down. Some er, crud? There seem to be similar but blanked off holes above each of the other inlet ports. What the devil is it, please? What sort of blanking plug should it have?

[stephend]

Originally Posted by Stephen Edwin

But I am bovvered about that little hole in the head that I mentioned before. Not measured by me yet, I'd guess about 3/8 inch. I was way wrong where it is. It is just above number three inlet port. Probing gently the hole I'm asking about seems to have something soft a short way down. Some er, crud? There seem to be similar but blanked off holes above each of the other inlet ports. What the devil is it, please? What sort of blanking plug should it have?

Can you post a photo? Might help someone to identify it.