Any Advice, Part 2!

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Chris152

That's great - thanks.

And oops - I see we're gonna need a new gasket for the thermostat? I'm assuming ours is rubber, but no idea really. And people seem to recommend replacing the thermostat itself if you're going that far.

eta - Just ordered a new thermostat and gasket from Brookhouse. Really helpful, checked the type that was standard in the UK, checked which gasket, should be here tomorrow. Brilliant service.

It's good practice to renew the 'stat and gasket every other coolant change Chris. Ethylene Glycol antifreeze needs changing every 2 years so that makes the 'stat change every 4 years. On the "in between" coolant change i don't use the flushing agent in the cooling system, just back-flush it after draining as described above.

My 760 will definitely be getting a new 'stat on the next coolant change (due soon) as it has got progressively weaker and slower to warm up over the past year. I changed the coolant and renewed the 'stat soon after getting the car 4 years ago, last coolant change was just a back flush and new antifreeze so this one is going to be the full flush with a flushing agent and a new 'stat and gasket.

If you don't know when the 'stat was last changed, it's well worth doing it. Not only will it warm up faster and to a better temperature but reduces the risk of head gasket failure through overcooling which can lead to hot spots by not keeping the temperature even across the head.
Clean the lands where the 'stat sits between the housing and head with a flat screwdriver, use silicone grease in the groove of the rubber gasket to help it slip onto the 'stat then smear some silicone grease onto the outside of the gasket to help it slide into its watertight position.

[Chris152]

Dave - Can I ask a couple more before we do the job?


1. You wrote: 'Remove the bottom hose from the rad to drain the old coolant - catch it in something for safe disposal.'
In the first attached pic, you can see the coolant will pour onto a cross member and looks like it may get stuck in there (through the holes) - should I get a funnel to direct it off that and straight into a bucket, or will it do no harm?

2. You wrote: 'Remove the top hose from the rad. Insert your garden hose into the top hose and turn the hose on. Water should start flowing from the rad stub - go and have a coffee!'
Is it the hose marked in the second photo, and the garden hose is going in in the direction marked? And is the stub from which it'll flow the same one that's under the arrow (ie the fresh water will pass all the way through the system, back to the point the pipe enters)? And is it ok for the fresh water to just pour down the front of the rad from that outlet?

As usual, apologies for my plodding questions, but keen to get it right!

Thanks, C

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Chris152

Dave - Can I ask a couple more before we do the job?


1. You wrote: 'Remove the bottom hose from the rad to drain the old coolant - catch it in something for safe disposal.'
In the first attached pic, you can see the coolant will pour onto a cross member and looks like it may get stuck in there (through the holes) - should I get a funnel to direct it off that and straight into a bucket, or will it do no harm?

2. You wrote: 'Remove the top hose from the rad. Insert your garden hose into the top hose and turn the hose on. Water should start flowing from the rad stub - go and have a coffee!'
Is it the hose marked in the second photo, and the garden hose is going in in the direction marked? And is the stub from which it'll flow the same one that's under the arrow (ie the fresh water will pass all the way through the system, back to the point the pipe enters)? And is it ok for the fresh water to just pour down the front of the rad from that outlet?

As usual, apologies for my plodding questions, but keen to get it right!

Thanks, C

Considering how clean that crossmember is Chris, i'd put a rag under the bottom stub to catch any stray coolant that dribbles back but most of it will come out fast enough to clear the crossmember anyway.

In answer to your 2nd questions - yes!

[Chris152]

Thanks Dave! Off to the shop to get the radiator flushing stuff and DI water. We won't start til the thermostat arrives, but hopefully get it done today!

C

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Chris152

Thanks Dave! Off to the shop to get the radiator flushing stuff and DI water. We won't start til the thermostat arrives, but hopefully get it done today!

C

You're welcome Chris, i've never been a big fan of distilled water but if you're happier using (and paying for) it then go for it.

If you haven't already got some, pick up some silicone grease while you're there as well.

[Chris152]

Still waiting for the stat, so not been to the shops yet. I was just going along with what I'd read Dave - and very happy to save money! What's the alternative to DI water? I seem to remember boiled and cooled water for batteries when we were youngsters?

And if I may throw in another - does the water after flushing the radiator with a flushing agent (and before attaching the garden hose) need catching and taking to the recycling centre like the coolant which has already been caught, or is it relatively safe to dispose of?

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Chris152

Still waiting for the stat, so not been to the shops yet. I was just going along with what I'd read Dave - and very happy to save money! What's the alternative to DI water? I seem to remember boiled and cooled water for batteries when we were youngsters?

And if I may throw in another - does the water after flushing the radiator with a flushing agent (and before attaching the garden hose) need catching and taking to the recycling centre like the coolant which has already been caught, or is it relatively safe to dispose of?

Depending on the exact flushing agent you use, it should be safe to just wash it away with the clean water that flushes through the system. By the time that lot has been through so it's running clear, the flushing agent will be so diluted it will be virtually clean water.

As i put in my original method, i use the water from the garden hose, it's clean water after all. According to many people there are impurities such as chalk etc depending on the area but the additives (anti corrosion and the like) in the antifreeze sort them out as far as i'm concerned. You could boil and cool a gallon of water then let it settle and pour it off carefully to minimise any sediment transfer but unless you live a seriously hard water area then it's unlikely to make much difference.

For batteries it is/was slightly different as the calcium from chalky water could react with the electrolysis action of the battery - now manufacturers add calcium to batteries in the first place!
However, for batteries boiled & cooled water is fine, again with the proviso to let it settle and pour carefully as above.

[Bob Meadows]

Mentioned this a few times but just in case it has been missed:~

A good flushing fluid is Central Heating cleaner/descaler- a litre bottle will be more than ample as it gets diluted.
The product can be used on dissimilar metals so safe for the engine- follow the instructions regarding bringing up to temperature & flushing etc.
Bob.

[Chris152]

Thanks both.

The stat hasn't turned up so we'll have to wait til Monday at the soonest.

Meanwhile, last night we removed the plastic covers no the front side lights/ indicators which were a bit dirty, look great now. So we thought we'd try the rear brake/ indicator in the same way, but struggling! Is the plastic on them removeable, or do you have to replace the whole unit?!

Also, on the near side one bolt is rotating with the nut. We put some releasing stuff on, but it's a bit of a struggle to hold the bolt while trying to turn the nut in such a little space. We'll keep fiddling and get there :-)

C

[Stephen Edwin]

Hello.

Mentioning lights and oiling nuts ....

It is well worth regularly lubricating the headlight securing nuts, three per headlamp usually. A squirt of Plus Gas aerosol per nut works wonders. There are threads lamenting difficulties from corroded seizure of those nuts ...

On a similar point, bonnet hinges. Three or four (?) fulcrum points per hings. Hinges not lubricated otherwise occasionally seize, and bend .... and ...

Hope that helps.


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