V70 D5 Auto No Drive - Diagnosing 2007

[bluebossa]

Latest little job - added a small Bluetooth AD2P V5 box into the centre console...

Wired in a 12v to 5v Box - £5 off Amazon, found a spot and switched supply at the back of the Centre Console. Then drilled a small hole to feed the USB through...

Sonru - £15 off Amazon...
SONRU Bluetooth 5.0 Receiver, Bluetooth Aux Adapter for Car Wireless Audio Receiver with 3.5mm AUX RCA Cable, Noise Cancellation, Dual AUX Outputs for Home Stereos Music Streaming Sound System

Then with the Jack into the Aux in - works a Treat. Sound quality is plenty loud and clear, played a Podcast through it on a journey today... nice little bit of modern tech for an older motor... recommended and took less than an hour to fit.

I bought this unit - which also has a Microphone so even though I've got the Parrot working now it will act as a 2nd phone kit... if needed.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Pics attached.

[bluebossa]

So, I think mainly because I've had the Stereo out a couple of times and disturbed the Auto shifter the cars rewarded me with a new error message

"Service Gear Selector"

I think its the ribbon or cabling under the Geartronic... as if I waggle it it goes in and out of Manual mode... hence the error...

Need to find the part number for a replacement I think...

[stuart bowes]

I don't suppose you have a link to the door seal you got (drivers side?) was it a geninue volvo part or did you just buy some generic rubber strip that fitted

I've been searching, I think I have the right part number (30779419) but can only see ones that are silly money like £100 plus delivery

thanks

[MisterGee19]

Originally Posted by stuart bowes

I guessed mine the first time and was a bit off but no massively noticeable effects tbh

What you can do is set one to about the middle somewhere then take a caliper measurement, and do your best to get the other side the same. That way at least they're even on both sides and you probably won't have excessively negative readings.

Or do what I ended up doing and get camber adjustment nuts.. the in between settings are still a bit guess work but if you want -1 they give you that exactly bang on

Cheers.
My tactic was “push the top right up” as per recommendation of one of the YouTube vids for changing the ball joint that remove the knuckle, not realising there was so much adjustment.
Guess that’s positive camber, but what I can say is that the front end “skips” now near full-lock and the lock will wind-on too, which I guess makes sense especially with likely worn control arms.
Where did you get the adjustment nuts from?

[stuart bowes]

https://www.powerflexsuspensionbushe...07-94401-p.asp but check part number and see elsewhere possibly save a few quid from ebay or something?

like this which seems to be the same just free delivery (ebay version) but says renault clio for some reason.. check properly first

and a little video to give you an idea if never used before https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LxcyMEHdo9Q

supplied leaflet had instructions for fitting and also correct torque settings which probably should be carefully observed

[bluebossa]

Originally Posted by stuart bowes

I don't suppose you have a link to the door seal you got (drivers side?) was it a genuine volvo part or did you just buy some generic rubber strip that fitted

I've been searching, I think I have the right part number (30779419) but can only see ones that are silly money like £100 plus delivery

thanks

Hi Stuart - Genuine Volvo - paid £30 from mine Second Hand - eBay...

Part number was/is 30779419 so your are correct, that's the right one...

[stuart bowes]

ok cool, I'll just keep checking until one pops up for sensible money then

cheers

[bluebossa]

Just to close off on the Siren journey/story - Alarm Fault.
The new one arrived today £190 - genuine Volvo part and I got to work!

Car Up - Siren Fitted - SUCCESS, Alarm siren goes off when car is opened through a locked drivers door window... Error message cleared and gone for another 10 years hopefully!

I took the Opportunity to put the multi-meter on both before fitting.

The Sirens have 3 pins and if you test the middle pin against the outer pins, the Voltage read 6.9V New...

I had replaced the original Battery on the Original Siren - and it read 0V, so despite the Board looking good it was Kaput... not sure if it can be tested further or recovered... will keep until I hear for those that know...

Pics attached... of new / old and Voltages..

That though seems to be the way to test a Duff unit to me - which of course you could do without removing from the car - once the Inner Wing is removed to access connector.

[bluebossa]

Originally Posted by bluebossa

Hey Mr Gee - re Camber, they said they didn't touch it... they had a battle to get it lined to zero all round... I'll get a photo of the printout and post...

Feels better and steering wheel is dead straight now as it was out of line...

Still noticing a slight desire to drift left, I'm thinking now it might be down to 2 different Shocks at the front, 1 x 4C and 1 x Normal... the Tyre place said it could be that too, different rates...

Just taken a snap of the post alignment report... here's where they got my V70 too... be interested on what the Camber specs should be?

Car drives well, still tiny desire to drift left... might be Camber?
Hope this is helpful as reference...

[stuart bowes]

there is a thread here when I was discussing it with people before: https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=319319

mostly about the rears.. the final readings I got to are at the bottom of page 3

fronts - 15-16 deg?? I didn't even think you could go that far.. that can't be right you'd tell just by looking it was a serious problem (surely it must be 1.5 and 1.6)

re: rears, it's a weird setup, toe is adjustable and as far as I can tell (though I may be wrong) a side effect of altering the toe is a movement on the camber readout. although technically camber is not adjustable. so if they sort out the toe you might find camber corrects slightly

i think my error was mostly saggy shocks because after I replaced them the readings went back to normal. that or the guy is a bit hit and miss with the machine which I don't want to accuse him of because he was really complimentary of my car