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It runs! and drives! (some drama)

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Old Aug 1st, 2012, 16:56   #11
nonhog
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Good ideas John.
Now whats "tick over"?

Yet to clean ground points and fuse block, on my list of to do's. I replaced the one split vac hose with no change.
I'll track it down.
With this forum (and others),my service manual and this...
http://volvo1800pictures.com/documen...lt_tracing.pdf

I do work at a Toyota dealer who has a injector cleaner but might need to fab an adaptor?

(some 'before' pics, not that its changed that much-yet)
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File Type: jpg 164 109.jpg (396.3 KB, 23 views)
File Type: jpg 164 112.jpg (347.2 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg 164 110.jpg (345.9 KB, 23 views)
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Last edited by nonhog; Aug 1st, 2012 at 17:01.
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Old Aug 1st, 2012, 17:19   #12
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Tickover = idle .... running but no load


Interesting that it has the 4 panel rear lights. I thought all '75 US cars had the larger 6 panel lights
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Old Aug 1st, 2012, 17:27   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john h View Post
Tickover = idle .... running but no load


Interesting that it has the 4 panel rear lights. I thought all '75 US cars had the larger 6 panel lights
Ah ha! tickover, now I know.

Speaking of rear lights I think they are 164 specific. Correct? One is cracked and one is broken. Probably not an easy find.
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(http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=332836)
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Old Aug 1st, 2012, 22:07   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nonhog View Post
Speaking of rear lights I think they are 164 specific. Correct? One is cracked and one is broken. Probably not an easy find.
Not too difficult. The 4 panel lights are shared with 140 and 240 1973 to 1978/9.

Volvo used two original manufacturers, Cibie and Hella. Their lights look almost the same, but parts do not interchange - i.e. a Hella backplate needs a Hella lens.

KG have new Cibie lenses, page 127 (... also nice B30 engine parts.... )

http://www.kgtrimning.com/defaultE.htm

They speak good English, so give them a call.


John
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Old Aug 5th, 2012, 02:22   #15
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Today I cleaned the ground (was nasty) replaced another split hose, lubed the throttle blad shaft and it runs a bit better in fact it never died. I'll try a warm start and see how it goes.
Still have old fuel. I did not want to drain it as it has half a tank and today is 90* pretty hot for the Seattle area.
Likely not done yet. More to check more to do but its headed the right direction.

Tach registers 0 or near 0 at idle, typical?
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http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=129720
66 Amazon Estate mild mods in the near future.
(http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=332836)
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Old Aug 5th, 2012, 09:14   #16
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Top up your tank with 98 octane (super) it will make a big difference.
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Old Aug 6th, 2012, 20:52   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john h View Post

There is a black plastic 'tap' on the vaccum pipes to adjust tickover (on Euro versions anyway)
Rule of thumb on adj. that? Little at a time? clockwise?

Quote:
Originally Posted by arcturus View Post
Top up your tank with 98 octane (super) it will make a big difference.
To make up for the aged fuel that has weakened over time? Our gas (super)
is 92. Does this car require super?

Runs pretty good when @ 35 and higher. I think I'll let the tank lower before topping off with fresh and probably add some 44K. http://www.bgprod.com/products/fuelair.html
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http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=129720
66 Amazon Estate mild mods in the near future.
(http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=332836)
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Old Aug 7th, 2012, 09:12   #18
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I'm not familiar with the six pot but using "super" made a big difference on my B20b. John h will probably know more about it. Yes, fuel goes "off" when left standing for some time
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Old Aug 16th, 2012, 16:32   #19
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Default More drama

So I drove the 164 to work to run more of the old gas through.
Did o.k. on the 20 mile each way trip.
Then when I got home it did not die (almost did) so I twisted the idle valve and it seemed to smooth out a very slight amount.
Fast forward a couple hours.....
My wife suggests we take the 164 out for ice cream. Right away I should have known something wasn't right. was running a little rough. I figured it was due to me not warming it up enough.
As it turns out the new alt. belt I installed was either not tight enough or was a bad belt? Battery died car stalled and would not restart.
Called a friend to come by and give me a jump start. No good, battery too far gone.
More waiting.........................
Came back with his boat battery (deep cycle) started and ran great, lucky I was able to keep it moving and just cool enough. (I hope)
Got it home after maybe a 5 mile trip and popped the hood.
Now I am in finger crossing mode.

Almost 10 people stopped to offer help. Pretty cool! Including a couple from Sweden.

I have tomorrow off of work but my time will be limited as it is suppose to be
95+ degree's, enough to melt the average Seattelite.

I am not looking forward to installing a new alt. belt. LOL
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80 Bertone 5.0 Ford swap underway.
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=129720
66 Amazon Estate mild mods in the near future.
(http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=332836)
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Old Aug 18th, 2012, 21:23   #20
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It's a good idea to re-tension the belt after 20 mls or so driving, they tend to stretch a bit. Touch wood- I've had no trouble with the 164s alternator. My other cars have both needed new ones- generally the brushes go or the diodes. It's not so easy to find companies that overhaul them now so a new one is often the best course. Hopefully you won't need to do that though. Could be the voltage regulator- this is a fairly simple bit of kit that can usually be DIY fixed, there's usually a relay which prevents battery drain to- another easy fix. At any rate it's all pretty lo-tech stuff. Jimmy
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