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Bottom suspension arms. XC90 2003.

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Old Jan 20th, 2011, 21:22   #11
400-ascona
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Swapping the arm is easy. Swapping the in board bushes would be harder. Assuming they are available, I am not sure if they are bonded in, but would suspect they are.
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Old Jan 21st, 2011, 09:46   #12
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this is the same problem i had with pattern arms i fitted genuine ones and the car drive spot on now. The arms are easy to change but the bushes can be a chore and volvo do sell them on their own. If you take the arm to a local indy and new bushes they will press the new bushes in for a drink.
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Old Jan 21st, 2011, 12:42   #13
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How much are genuine volvo lower control arms complete? Pattern parts are selling for £70ish each
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Old Jan 21st, 2011, 15:14   #14
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genuine ones cost me £135 each +vat
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Old Jan 21st, 2011, 16:52   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carl2304 View Post
genuine ones cost me £135 each +vat
so at just over £150 a pop, its hardly worth my while trying to fix it on the cheap by just replacing single bushes or even risking a cheap pattern part.

Thanks for the tip. Looks like its a genuine full lower wishbones for me when I have a bit of spare dosh
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Old Jan 21st, 2011, 19:04   #16
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Make sure you ask them to max the discount. Some items are 10%, but some can go to 30% (at least they could at Stratstone in Derby).
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Old Jan 31st, 2011, 19:46   #17
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just replaced my osf wishbone with the original volvo unit (with brand new volvo bush). Still pulls to the right after braking. I have not had the tracking re-done but am unsure if that would fix it-given that it only happens under braking.
Any thoughts/ideas?
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Old Jan 31st, 2011, 20:04   #18
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Pulling whilst braking can be caused by seized caliper (on the other side), worn lower arm bushes, or faulty shocker (either top bearing or actual damper).
You've eliminated one, you just need to try the others. Suggest checking the brakes aren't seized, and the top bearing are the easiest.
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Old Jan 31st, 2011, 20:21   #19
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Thanks rob
Ive checked calipers already, they seem ok and ive replaced these all round the whole car over last year or so with exchange units.
Would it be worth getting checked on MOT brake test rolling road or would this not be represntative of real driving?
How can i check damper and bearing though?
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Old Jan 31st, 2011, 20:44   #20
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Top bearing is easy enough to remove. Unclip the brake pipe and ABS sensor cable. Undo the drop link and the 2 bolts that hold the shock onto the lower knuckle. Remove the 3 bolts from the top of the strut (under the bonnet), and out it comes. Check the top bearing spins freely and smoothly with no play.
The problem with a brake roller is, as you suggest, it doesn't replicate the different loading etc of road use.
Not always obvious if its the shocker. Swapping for another unit is the best way, but due to cost should probably be the last resort.
Just a thought, but what year is it, and is the flexi hose good on the brakes? If it has gone soft, or is breaking down internally they can do all sorts of odd things.
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