B16a-siezed-advise needed - Page 2

wentworthto1 · Jul 24th, 2009, 00:22

Well, I looked today and saw that the penetrating oil has dissapeared in the first cylinder. So I can assume that that piston is now free. However, the others are still full. I still cannot turn the pulley. Should I add more pb blaster to the first cylinder so that it does not sieze up again while I wait for the others to loosen?

I ordered "engine release" about two weeks ago, so it should get here any day now. When I get it, I may try it instead in the rest of the cylinders.

I also bought some 5w 20 oil and filled the engine again with 5 quarts. Should I add more oil and fill the entire engine to the top? I'm wondering if other things may be siezed inside the engine.

Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Thanks, Todd Wentworth

asneddon · Jul 24th, 2009, 07:58

i'm not saying this is a good idea, but my dad had the 48 flathead in his boat seize up one year and after lots of effort trying to get it sorted he went for the brute force method:

1) Fill up the bores with lighter fluid.
2) light
3) wait for the fire to go out
4) see if the heat has freed the pistons.

It worked for him, but then again he did have a spare engine he could have used if we needed to pull the current one and strip it.

Derek UK · Jul 24th, 2009, 11:07

At this point I don't think I would have put the oil in the engine. It'll still be below the crank. If the engine is out of the boat, I don't think you've said, you can tilt it from side to side to wet everything down, but it won't help much to free anything off. If not, anything you put down the bores will contaminate the oil so it'll need changing before you attempt to start it. At the moment it's 1 down 3 to go so your patience is paying off.
We're patient too. How about a pic of the engine and boat?

222s · Jul 24th, 2009, 11:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by classicswede

If penetrating oil is not going down then the only other thing you could try is some coca cola (not for you but put it down the bores). It does often do the trick of freeing up rusty parts.

Seconded.

wentworthto1 · Jul 24th, 2009, 16:56

I am working on getting the pictures to transfer to the thread.

wentworthto1 · Jul 25th, 2009, 03:56

Hey! I finally figured out how to make it all work

[ATTACH]boat 2.jpg

boat 3.jpg

boat 4.jpg

boat 5.jpg

boat 6.jpg

boat 7.jpg

boat 8.jpg

boat 9.jpg

boat 10.jpg

boat 11.jpg

boat 12.jpg

boat 13.jpg[/ATTACH]

Derek UK · Jul 25th, 2009, 11:30

VERY interesting. Looks like the Florida(?, I see you're in Pa) salty air has been working well, although the spark plug numbering sticky has survived well.
If your patience pays off, what the next step? Try and start it for a very short run? Cooling will be difficult as it stands. Conveniently, it has the 2 lifting rings, so pulling it out won't be too difficult.
What are your plans? A complete restoration as a "vintage boat" or a tidy up for weekend fun?

wentworthto1 · Jul 25th, 2009, 13:20

well, I lived in Fla. from '82-'96. The boat hasn't seen the water since 1990. I got the engine running about 4 years ago and it ran beautifully. So I'm hoping it will run the same after these pistons free up. Yesterday, I received the "engine release" in the mail and started the treatments. So, with one piston already free, I am pretty optomistic!

The boat belonged to my dad when he was a kid. He grew up on Lake Michigan. The boat probably has less than a few hundred hours on it. So, the engine is pretty "new".

The boat itself needs major work though. The first project is re-coring the inside of the hull with end-grain balsa and resin. After the inside is finished, I will move to the outer. All of the gel-coat must be sanded down and removed so that I can build it back up with resin and then paint it with Interlux Brightsides paint.

When I get the engine out, I may just open it up and recondition as much as possible. What would you do with it? I'm sure the outdrive will also need attention. The prop turns freely when disengaged, so that is a good sign.

Well, I'll let everyone know the progress!

Derek UK · Jul 25th, 2009, 19:56

If it runs nice again after it's free'd up, I'd just take off the bolt on parts, get them blasted and repainted. Put it all back together and freshen the whole engine with new paint. The rocker cover may have been chrome, but on non Penta engines, the B16a just had it painted engine colour.
Good luck with the rebuild.

Pop in here and have a chat.
Susquehanna Spares, 3725 Elder Rd, Harrisburg, PA 17111 (717) 921-2644 ; 122/1800 parts, Joe Lazenby owner

Jul 24th, 2009, 00:22	#11
wentworthto1 New Member Last Online: May 24th, 2017 20:40 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Butler, PA	Partial Success! Well, I looked today and saw that the penetrating oil has dissapeared in the first cylinder. So I can assume that that piston is now free. However, the others are still full. I still cannot turn the pulley. Should I add more pb blaster to the first cylinder so that it does not sieze up again while I wait for the others to loosen? I ordered "engine release" about two weeks ago, so it should get here any day now. When I get it, I may try it instead in the rest of the cylinders. I also bought some 5w 20 oil and filled the engine again with 5 quarts. Should I add more oil and fill the entire engine to the top? I'm wondering if other things may be siezed inside the engine. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Thanks, Todd Wentworth

Jul 24th, 2009, 16:56	#15
wentworthto1 New Member Last Online: May 24th, 2017 20:40 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Butler, PA	Working on pictures! I am working on getting the pictures to transfer to the thread.

Jul 25th, 2009, 19:56	#19
Derek UK VOC Member Last Online: Today 12:33 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Chatham	If it runs nice again after it's free'd up, I'd just take off the bolt on parts, get them blasted and repainted. Put it all back together and freshen the whole engine with new paint. The rocker cover may have been chrome, but on non Penta engines, the B16a just had it painted engine colour. Good luck with the rebuild. Pop in here and have a chat. Susquehanna Spares, 3725 Elder Rd, Harrisburg, PA 17111 (717) 921-2644 ; 122/1800 parts, Joe Lazenby owner Last edited by Derek UK; Jul 25th, 2009 at 19:58. Reason: addition

Jul 24th, 2009, 07:58	#12
asneddon Master Member Last Online: Nov 29th, 2021 23:46 Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Dunedin	i'm not saying this is a good idea, but my dad had the 48 flathead in his boat seize up one year and after lots of effort trying to get it sorted he went for the brute force method: 1) Fill up the bores with lighter fluid. 2) light 3) wait for the fire to go out 4) see if the heat has freed the pistons. It worked for him, but then again he did have a spare engine he could have used if we needed to pull the current one and strip it.

Jul 24th, 2009, 11:07	#13
Derek UK VOC Member Last Online: Today 12:33 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Chatham	At this point I don't think I would have put the oil in the engine. It'll still be below the crank. If the engine is out of the boat, I don't think you've said, you can tilt it from side to side to wet everything down, but it won't help much to free anything off. If not, anything you put down the bores will contaminate the oil so it'll need changing before you attempt to start it. At the moment it's 1 down 3 to go so your patience is paying off. We're patient too. How about a pic of the engine and boat?

Jul 25th, 2009, 03:56	#16
wentworthto1 New Member Last Online: May 24th, 2017 20:40 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Butler, PA	Hey! I finally figured out how to make it all work [ATTACH]boat 2.jpg boat 3.jpg boat 4.jpg boat 5.jpg boat 6.jpg boat 7.jpg boat 8.jpg boat 9.jpg boat 10.jpg boat 11.jpg boat 12.jpg boat 13.jpg[/ATTACH]

Jul 25th, 2009, 11:30	#17
Derek UK VOC Member Last Online: Today 12:33 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Chatham	VERY interesting. Looks like the Florida(?, I see you're in Pa) salty air has been working well, although the spark plug numbering sticky has survived well. If your patience pays off, what the next step? Try and start it for a very short run? Cooling will be difficult as it stands. Conveniently, it has the 2 lifting rings, so pulling it out won't be too difficult. What are your plans? A complete restoration as a "vintage boat" or a tidy up for weekend fun?

Jul 25th, 2009, 13:20	#18
wentworthto1 New Member Last Online: May 24th, 2017 20:40 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Butler, PA	well, I lived in Fla. from '82-'96. The boat hasn't seen the water since 1990. I got the engine running about 4 years ago and it ran beautifully. So I'm hoping it will run the same after these pistons free up. Yesterday, I received the "engine release" in the mail and started the treatments. So, with one piston already free, I am pretty optomistic! The boat belonged to my dad when he was a kid. He grew up on Lake Michigan. The boat probably has less than a few hundred hours on it. So, the engine is pretty "new". The boat itself needs major work though. The first project is re-coring the inside of the hull with end-grain balsa and resin. After the inside is finished, I will move to the outer. All of the gel-coat must be sanded down and removed so that I can build it back up with resin and then paint it with Interlux Brightsides paint. When I get the engine out, I may just open it up and recondition as much as possible. What would you do with it? I'm sure the outdrive will also need attention. The prop turns freely when disengaged, so that is a good sign. Well, I'll let everyone know the progress!

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)