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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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Bringing a 740 back to lifeViews : 23666 Replies : 240Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Mar 15th, 2021, 19:26 | #11 |
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That fuse box is also difficult on my 940 but does eventually come out so far. It could have some of that Volvo extra sticky black gooey stuff under it. Mine had.
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Ian. Since 2005: 1992 Volvo 940 estate 2.0L. Manual. Daily driver and workhorse. |
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Mar 15th, 2021, 20:43 | #12 |
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Mar 20th, 2021, 14:03 | #13 |
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Quick update on progress this morning:
Checked the spark plugs, and all getting spark when cranked. Checked the fuses and all correct with none broken. Changed the fuel pump relay and you can tell the original one was faulty. As soon as it was plugged and ignition turned on you could hear the pump prime. This didn’t happen previously Tried starting the car again and nothing. Keeps cranking, but doesn’t start. With that in mind I took off the pipe to the fuel rail, cranked the car again and no fuel coming out of the pipe. So it looks like there is no fuel getting to the engine to fire. Before I did all this I had to take off the filter and pump again from the car as I hadn’t replaced all the brass washers, and there was a slight leak. Everything is replaced and all connected. Any ideas? I know I need to check the one in the boot as mentioned by Laird, but couldn’t do this on my own. |
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Mar 20th, 2021, 14:22 | #14 | |
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Quote:
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In case it's not priming or you miss it, turn to position 3 (start) and watch the meter, you should get battery voltage while cranking and for 1-2 seconds after you release the key. If you are getting voltage but still no pump action, cralw underneath and find the main pump and give it a couple of gentle taps with a hammer handle. Likewise at the back of the tank, in the centre at the bottom, a couple of sharp slaps with the ball of your hand. Try starting again, you may need to repeat the "tap and slap" routine 2 or 3 times but unless those pumps are seriously siezed, if you have power reaching them they should run. Once you've got them running, add about 2 egg-cups full of synthetic ATF (Carlube ATF-U is good for this) to clean the system including injectors and lube the pumps and revive any rubber seals that have dried out.
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Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
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Mar 20th, 2021, 14:51 | #15 | |
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On the ATF where do I add this? |
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Mar 20th, 2021, 15:30 | #16 | |
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In fact, if you're not going to tap the tank until tomorrow, add some ATF before you start trying to coax the in-tank pump back to life by tapping the bottom of the tank. It might just help to free something off.
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Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
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Mar 20th, 2021, 15:44 | #17 | |
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Thanks. Just to check this is the stuff? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Carlube-ATF.../dp/B00HOGNXK2 |
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Mar 20th, 2021, 17:33 | #18 | |
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Try this for 1L : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CARLUBE-A...L/284152043980 .........or for 1 gallon (4.54L) : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Carlube-A...L/233257297843 You can also use it in your PAS and if you have an auto, it's a vast improvement over Dexron II-D. I have found many other uses for it as well, 50/50 mix with acetone (nail varnish remover) and shaken it makes an excellent penetrating fluid. Needs sealing after each use to prevent the acetone evaporating and shaking before each use but that's a small price to pay for how good it is.
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Mar 20th, 2021, 17:48 | #19 | |
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Thanks. I’ll have a look online for a good price. |
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Mar 20th, 2021, 17:54 | #20 |
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Those are about the best prices delivered on ebay UK.
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