|
PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
![]() |
|
B18 B overheatingViews : 1406 Replies : 16Users Viewing This Thread : |
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
![]() |
#11 |
Member
Last Online: Jun 16th, 2024 13:31
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Oswestry
|
![]()
Ps forgot to mention but I had checked the operation of the thermostat and it was starting to open at 77 - 80 degrees and fully open soon after. And definitely the correct one for B18 engine. So am very puzzled !
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#12 |
Senior Member
Last Online: Yesterday 16:39
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Falkirk
|
![]()
Don't want this to sound like a stupid question, but where on the gauge does the needle sit?
When the factory gauge is out of the instrument panel you can see the temperatures marked out at the very top. 90C is actually quite far to the right, so it may look like it's running hot. https://www.sw-em.com/temperature_gauge_notes.htm On mine I find that as long as the needle is within the coloured green and white bands then it's within a normal range. |
![]() |
![]() |
The Following User Says Thank You to Juular For This Useful Post: |
![]() |
#14 | |
Premier Member
Last Online: Yesterday 19:40
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Skeg Vegas
|
![]() Quote:
![]() Addendum: I’ve just noticed from your later post that you have checked the thermostat, and it is okay. In that case I’d agree with Juular’s recent post - the gauge does look as if it in the hot region when running normally, my Amazon is much the same.
__________________
... another lovely day in paradise. ![]() Last edited by Othen; Jun 12th, 2024 at 15:30. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
The Following User Says Thank You to Othen For This Useful Post: |
![]() |
#15 |
Member
Last Online: Jun 16th, 2024 13:31
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Oswestry
|
![]()
Thanks Juular that’s reassuring in a way cos that almost identical to where my needle sits with thermostat fitted. I had the low temp thermostat fitted (76 degree opening) and having checked my gauge for accuracy would have thought the needle would hover round the central greens section of the gauge. In traffic it can get into the last white section of the gauge (92 degrees) which I find slightly worrying as we’re not into the hot weather yet! Maybe I should just chill a bit! Haven’t been on more than 20 mile trips cos of this issue.
|
![]() |
![]() |
The Following User Says Thank You to Salop Farmer For This Useful Post: |
![]() |
#16 |
Master Member
Last Online: Yesterday 17:34
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
|
![]()
My following comments are based upon the assumption that you are using a 50:50 glycol:water coolant mix or something close to that. They are not valid for a high glycol mix which suppresses boil over and also causes higher operating temperatures because of reduced heat transfer.
My observations are as follows: - if you have not vented coolant because of boiling then you have not overheated. - My B20E thermostat starts opening around 82C and goes fully open around 90 C. The typical coolant operating temperature is pretty much 87 - 92 C when the car is moving / engine running around 2500 - 3000 RPM. On a hot day (30C), when I come to a long traffic light and the engine is idling the engine temperature gauge will creep up to 100C or slightly higher; but, that is primarily because the engine temperature gauge is at the back of the head and at idle the coolant flow drops off so the coolant at the back of the head runs up to 10C higher that the control point at the thermostat housing. - If you open the heater valve the heater core inlet is at the back of the head. This increases flow through the head which tends to drop the temperature measured by the gauge because of increased flow. This is normal for the B18 / B20 engines. - Opening your heater valve also provides some supplementary cooling. That would be more indicative of issues associated with marginal radiator capacity than a thermostat problem. I think you are probably just fine. With the car in motion, an operating coolant temperature of 87 - 90 C would be be 'right on the money'. On hotter days, it would be normal for the temperature to creep up to 100C when you come to a stop with the engine idling. I think your Brookhouse thermostat is just fine. An engine operating around 70C is too cool. On a really hot day (30+ C), if you start to find that with the car in motion that you are running closer to 100C then you may have a cooling problem; but, I suspect that cooling problem may be more related to a smallish radiator than the thermostat. Remember that above 90 C the thermostat is 100% open and the cooling system is in full flow mode. Any temperature rise above 90C is because of a lack of heat rejection by the radiator. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#17 |
Member
Last Online: Jun 16th, 2024 13:31
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Oswestry
|
![]()
Thank you 142 Guy for your detailed response. I will refit a new thermostat ( to be sure) and keep an eye on the situation. Although B16 rad is on the small side for a B18 engine the water has never boiled over.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|