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rear brakes

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Old Jul 27th, 2012, 12:33   #11
bar72
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i'm having no luck with the tool, i'm doing it with the caliper on the car with a ball joint splitter which fits perfect but i can't get it to turn in, applying pressure while turning clockwise and it won't budge?

i have removed the lid of the master cylinder, do i need to disconnect the handbrake cable or the bolt for the handbrake cable to caliper or can it be done without any more than removing the 2 screws from the caliper to hub carrier, thanks
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Old Jul 27th, 2012, 12:45   #12
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Have you tried easing out the piston then turning it back. Keep doing this back and forth and it may clean any dust and dry grease out of the grooves in the piston. It may take a while but worked on my car.
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Old Jul 27th, 2012, 13:10   #13
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There is no point undoing the bolt, as that bolt only secures the part which is placed on a spline. Try releasing the handbrake for starters, but make sure the car is supported safely first. If no joy, try turning it the other way too. This way, you will find out if the caliper is seized or not.
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Old Jul 27th, 2012, 13:32   #14
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thanks syd / gatos, result, got it back with ball joint splitter, need arms like garth to push & twist at same time but got there. caliper lower slide pin was seized too but i had to manipulate it back & forth then give it a bang outwards with a 14mm open ended spanner on the flange and she's come out, managed to keep rubber seal intact to so luck's on my side today. gonna pack it with plenty copper slip so i don't get same grief next time, thanks again guys. barry

btw, what is the correct torque settings for calliper to hub carrier? is it 33nm or thereabouts..
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Old Jul 27th, 2012, 14:44   #15
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Yes 33nm.
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File Type: pdf replacing the rear brake pads.pdf (176.4 KB, 10 views)
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