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Diesel Engines A forum dedicated to diesel engines fitted to Volvo cars. See the first post in this forum for a list of the diesel engines. |
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D5 07 model year Rattly top endViews : 6151 Replies : 26Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Feb 18th, 2015, 21:32 | #11 |
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The effect has been dramatic... Before I replaced these parts the engine was really clattery, and there was a deep throbbing coming from the air filter box. Awful, and the car sounded sick, although still actually drove really well. Now it's a different car, lovely and quiet, no more throbbing and runs like a Swiss watch.... Pricey though, followers are approx £12 each, and followers are £16... You'll need 20 of each... . You'll also need a new gasket, 5 injector seals and the obligatory oil and filter change. Hopefully I'll see an improvement in fuel consumption (or my good lady is going to be a bit miffed!)
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Jul 23rd, 2016, 17:46 | #12 |
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Hi Horton,
Any updates on the Lifters and Rockers? I have the same problem on a D5 185 Euro 4 engine in a 2006 V70. Where did you source the parts? Do you know what make the Lifters and Rockers where? TIA |
Jul 23rd, 2016, 18:00 | #13 |
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Yes an update would be nice, I've considered my engine may have tired lifters as I get the tug boat sound round the air box sometimes, it may also be the egr....
I'm going to do a full oil flush soon and I'm hoping that may improve things. However, it's nowhere bad enough to justify a top end rebuild yet! Is a top end rebuild a home mechanic job or is it a bit too involved?
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It's a dogs life! XC70 D5 2006 244K Still chugging! CRV 2.2 2006 216K Reactivated. |
Jul 23rd, 2016, 18:08 | #14 |
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For reference the mileage is 137,000 Miles.
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Jul 24th, 2016, 19:45 | #15 | |
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Quote:
Whilst I still have electronic, and possibly injector issues with my 300k km engine the silence from the top end is amazing.... Regards |
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Jul 24th, 2016, 23:08 | #16 |
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It's a dogs life! XC70 D5 2006 244K Still chugging! CRV 2.2 2006 216K Reactivated. |
Jul 25th, 2016, 05:49 | #17 |
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Do you need to change all the lifters and followers ? What other parts are required to do this job ? Has anyone done it and could you do a write up as this seems to be a common problem.
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Jul 25th, 2016, 09:07 | #18 |
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I'm pleased this thread has come up. For a while now I've thought my '07 XC90 D5 has been a bit clattery, and I also have that throbbing noise. No one else believed me!
I was hoping the oil change at its last service would help, but it hasn't. How easy is it for someone to check the lifters and bearings? Is it a case of only knowing once they're all stripped out? What are people's thoughts on switching away from Volvo's recommendation of 0W30 to 0W40? I read on another forum that sometimes the lifters can just be sticky, and it's worth trying a decent oil additive like LiquiMoly first to see if that helps. |
Jul 25th, 2016, 09:12 | #19 | |
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Quote:
I'm going to liquimoly flush mine first and go from there. Agree a write up on this job would be great!
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It's a dogs life! XC70 D5 2006 244K Still chugging! CRV 2.2 2006 216K Reactivated. |
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Jul 25th, 2016, 18:49 | #20 |
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The full procedure is in Haynes. But in simple terms it is as follows. This is for a 185....
Remove the two parts of the engine cover and the PVC pipe that crosses over the engine. Pull this off at the connection near the turbo. Remove injectors pipes wires etc to get intake manifold off. Remove injection pump and vacuum pump. Do a knack with the timing belt to hold it in place so you can remove the timing belt from the cam shaft pulley. Bear in mind that the camshaft pulley is bolted through slotted holes. . There are marks on the cogs that drive the second cam shaft which need to be aligned. I put these together and marked the timing belt and put tie wraps on the belt to keep it snugged up with string against the crank shaft timing pulley and prior to releasing the tension and removing the camshaft pulley. At this stage you can see the entire of the cam shafts. Open the bolts holding the aluminium castings on both ends. Open the bolts keeping the cam shafts in place by loosening them all a little at a time. Lift out the camshafts the lifters and rockers are just sitting there loose. A magnet helps to get the bits out. Photograph as you go and put everything back as it was. In theory you must change the injector seals clips, bolts, fuel pipes, manifold gasket. I would suggest a brave person can get by bending the injector clips. Replacing the copper seals, and the manifold gasket. I would also suggest new flap valves. Mine leak since I replaced things and I will definitely replace them the next time I take the manifold off. I would have a 6mm helicoil set and battery drill on standby for the injectors and a torque wrench. |
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