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Replacing the Drop Links (Anti Roll Bar Links)

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Old May 14th, 2013, 19:37   #1
GrahamBrown1
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front links are very different to the rears. the rears are a fraction of the size and more of like a twisted L shape all most. give them all a good soak with wd40 before you touch em because on my 2003 they were welded. or better still, dont mess about and get the grinder out, job done in half an hour that way.
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Old May 14th, 2013, 20:20   #2
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As GrahamBrown1 has already said, the rears are completely different. Only change them if they need changing.

You have a Phase 2 car, so you need the same ones I used on my car

Phase 2 (2000-2004) S/V40 drop links are 267mm long
Volvo part number: 30884179
Meyle part number: HD 516 060 0009/HD
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Old May 14th, 2013, 20:26   #3
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Thank you Gatos. Great Guide! Now I know what the knocking is from my front left when I go over bumps. Pot holes easily damage the rubbers in older ones of these.
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Old May 14th, 2013, 21:15   #4
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Thanks Morrismen. Done this guide some time ago actually...... If you check my signature, I have all my guides together in one place. If you check the rest of the pages of the drop link guide, you will also find the part numbers and also where to get the MEYLE HD ones if you decide to go for them. 4 years guarantee and about a 3rd of the price of the volvo ones
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Old Mar 14th, 2021, 14:32   #5
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[SIZE="3"]If you are experiencing an irritating rattle when you drive over rough surfaces but no rattling noise when on smooth surfaces, then most probably, your drop links (also known as Anti Roll Bar Links) are shot and need replacing. Also you should change the drop links if the rubber boot is perished.

I had no rattle on mine, but the rubber boots/gaiters were split and it was time for them to be changed. I normally go for Volvo original parts as they last a lot longer than some of the aftermarket rubbish out there. However I have read a lot of positive comments about the MEYLE HD drop links and they come with a 4-year guarantee and cost me only £35 for both sides. The Volvo part number for the Phase 2 S/V40 is 30884179 and the MEYLE part number I bought is HD 516 060 0009/HD. They are 267mm in length.

Tools that you will need:
15mm spanner
T30 torx key
wire brush
WD40 or similar lubricant spray/penetrating oil
Jack and axle stand

Additional things you might need if you can't get the nuts off
Blow torch
Angled grinder


Loosen the wheel nuts and jack the car up and support it on an axle stand


Remove the wheel and you can now see the drop links (highlighted in yellow in the photos). If they are covered with dirt, use the wire brush to clean it up and spray some penetrating oil on the drop links screw threads and let them soak for a bit. Time for a cuppa or a beer. Ideally, you could spray them the day before, as it will make things easier.


The drop links are held at each end by a nut. In order to undo the nut you need to use a T30 torx key in the centre of the screw thread so you restrain the screw whilst undoing the nut.

If you are lucky enough and the thread of the screw is not very rusted, you will undo the nut easily. If the nut starts to get hard to turn, then stop and screw it back in. Try not to force the nut too much because you will most probably round off the torx thread, or bend the hell out of your T30 torx key like I did.

If you are still struggling with it, then you can use the blow torch and if this fails too, then use the angle grinder. In my case, 3 nuts came off nice and easy but one of them bend the hell out of my Cr-Mo impact socket torx..... I had to use the angle grinder to get it off.
Another method is to rip the rubber gaiter and use some mole to hold the screw while undoing the nut.









Old drop link with split gaiter



Old vs new drop links


Fit the top part of the drop link first using the T30 torx to secure the middle and tighten the nut


You will notice that the bottom part of the drop link is a bit lower than where it's meant to go (see photo above. Place the jack under the wishbone and raise it until the bottom part of the drop link is level with the hole it is meant to go into and screw in the nut...... Job done!!!
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Last edited by gatos; Mar 14th, 2021 at 15:49.
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Old Mar 15th, 2021, 22:10   #6
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Thanks for taking the time to repost photos Gatos.
I know this is one of the relatively easier jobs to do but for the first time people out there.
As they say "A picture paints a thousand words"
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Old Mar 16th, 2021, 15:26   #7
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Excellent guide, thanks.
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