760 No Start/Stall Troubleshoot Help - Page 2

bob12 · Mar 23rd, 2012, 17:43

Have you tried continuous cranking and while this continues put your foot to the floor on the accelerator pedal and keep it their until it fires? Just a thought!

Bob.

podgerd · Mar 24th, 2012, 15:58

I haven't checked compression but I'm pretty certain it's not the issue because when the car does start it runs great. Would a compression problem cause the coil to lose power?

brodgar · Mar 24th, 2012, 16:54

I hd a 760 v6 with intermittant problem.

The cause was the wiring loom that runs OVER the cijlinder heads.
they get brittle and the harnasses disintegrate, thus shortcutting, resulting in stalling.

I dont know how the wiring loom runs through your engine bay.

GOOD LUCK

WABB · Mar 24th, 2012, 21:12

Similar problem with 1986 760 Turbo Estate Auto - would start OK, then die at random intervals when fully warmed up only starting again after 20/30 minutes. Eventually tracked down to a hairline crack in the distributor cap causing random shorting - new cap fixed the problem. Coincidence or cure?

ericbeaumont · Mar 24th, 2012, 21:53

Had similar symptoms on a '93 940: long crank, non-start, intermittently starting and running fine, dying in traffic etc. Eventually, after several AA tows and checking and cleaning the usual suspects I noticed the rev. needle waving around when trying to start. As soon as I reported this last symptom to my Volvo independent they suspected the ECU. A good second-hand unit sorted the problem.

podgerd · Apr 9th, 2012, 15:39

@ ericbeaumont

yes, I suspect that the ECU is probably the problem, it's the only thing I can think of that could be wrong, but I'm not willing to shell out the money for one.

To earlier suggestions and questions, I don't think it's a compression problem or a wiring harness problem because when I run a wire directly from the battery to the coil the car starts up no problem and runs fine. The issue is also not heat related, cooling the car down does not help. I know earlier volvo models (pre-88) had electrical harness wiring problems but my car is a 1990 and as it isn't a heat related issue, I don't think it's the harness.

I think sometime this morning I'll try and run a new wire from my ignition switch, through the firewall and to the coil. Any reason this might not work?

rogerthechorister · Apr 9th, 2012, 22:24

Is this a Hall sensor engine? It sounds like previous descriptions I ahve read about Hall sensor issues.

podgerd · Apr 10th, 2012, 03:05

Yeah, I already replaced the crank position sensor, I think on older vehicles it's called a hall sensor. It wasn't the problem. Like I said, the issue is not receiving power at the coil.

Anyways, I seem to have fixed the problem. I just ran a new wire from the coil primary to my ignition switch through the firewall. Car runs like a charm now!

Thanks to everyone for taking the time to respond this thread, I appreciate it!

Apr 9th, 2012, 22:24	#17
rogerthechorister Rogerthechorister Last Online: Dec 16th, 2023 02:15 Join Date: May 2006 Location: Rochester	Hall sensor engine? Is this a Hall sensor engine? It sounds like previous descriptions I ahve read about Hall sensor issues.

Mar 23rd, 2012, 17:43	#11
bob12 bob12 Last Online: Yesterday 19:12 Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Woking	Have you tried continuous cranking and while this continues put your foot to the floor on the accelerator pedal and keep it their until it fires? Just a thought! Bob.

Mar 24th, 2012, 15:58	#12
podgerd New Member Last Online: Aug 26th, 2014 07:50 Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Calgary	I haven't checked compression but I'm pretty certain it's not the issue because when the car does start it runs great. Would a compression problem cause the coil to lose power?

Mar 24th, 2012, 16:54	#13
brodgar I've Been Banned Last Online: Nov 27th, 2012 10:56 Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Forest Row	I hd a 760 v6 with intermittant problem. The cause was the wiring loom that runs OVER the cijlinder heads. they get brittle and the harnasses disintegrate, thus shortcutting, resulting in stalling. I dont know how the wiring loom runs through your engine bay. GOOD LUCK

Mar 24th, 2012, 21:12	#14
WABB Volvo Owner Last Online: Yesterday 22:34 Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Edinburgh	Similar problem with 1986 760 Turbo Estate Auto - would start OK, then die at random intervals when fully warmed up only starting again after 20/30 minutes. Eventually tracked down to a hairline crack in the distributor cap causing random shorting - new cap fixed the problem. Coincidence or cure?

Mar 24th, 2012, 21:53	#15
ericbeaumont ericbeaumont Last Online: Apr 22nd, 2024 19:38 Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: London	Had similar symptoms on a '93 940: long crank, non-start, intermittently starting and running fine, dying in traffic etc. Eventually, after several AA tows and checking and cleaning the usual suspects I noticed the rev. needle waving around when trying to start. As soon as I reported this last symptom to my Volvo independent they suspected the ECU. A good second-hand unit sorted the problem.

Apr 9th, 2012, 15:39	#16
podgerd New Member Last Online: Aug 26th, 2014 07:50 Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Calgary	@ ericbeaumont yes, I suspect that the ECU is probably the problem, it's the only thing I can think of that could be wrong, but I'm not willing to shell out the money for one. To earlier suggestions and questions, I don't think it's a compression problem or a wiring harness problem because when I run a wire directly from the battery to the coil the car starts up no problem and runs fine. The issue is also not heat related, cooling the car down does not help. I know earlier volvo models (pre-88) had electrical harness wiring problems but my car is a 1990 and as it isn't a heat related issue, I don't think it's the harness. I think sometime this morning I'll try and run a new wire from my ignition switch, through the firewall and to the coil. Any reason this might not work?

Apr 10th, 2012, 03:05	#18
podgerd New Member Last Online: Aug 26th, 2014 07:50 Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Calgary	Yeah, I already replaced the crank position sensor, I think on older vehicles it's called a hall sensor. It wasn't the problem. Like I said, the issue is not receiving power at the coil. Anyways, I seem to have fixed the problem. I just ran a new wire from the coil primary to my ignition switch through the firewall. Car runs like a charm now! Thanks to everyone for taking the time to respond this thread, I appreciate it!

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)