Brake shoe fitting urgent advice needed!!!😣

[Bashy]

Originally Posted by Simmy

cheapo shoes? never skimp on brake parts. buy cheap buy twice

Way ahead of ya, I had to buy twice already as my 1st set are still enroute and my mot is on Wednesday, so I had to buy again so I bought cheap

[Simmy]

good to hear your on it auto doc by any chance? they can be slow as most parts come from europe

[Bashy]

Originally Posted by Simmy

good to hear your on it auto doc by any chance? they can be slow as most parts come from europe

Yep, i had no idea it was even out of the UK due to Chrome auto translating, it only clicked when i tracked the parcel for the 1st time, i checked its journey, then it clicked else i wouldnt have touched them due to the time constraints

[TDIvolvo]

Originally Posted by Bashy

Godammit......

Thanks lol, will get one for next time, only put in cheapo shoes, just hope it's not any time soon, my back has totally gone :/

If there is possibly 1 thing that really you must put decent parts into, that is a Volvo handbrake. They are notoriously pants on these, all Volvo parts and they actually work pretty well.

Oh and spark plugs!

[100K+]

Sorry guys, if this is wrong, but I think I fit the top shoe in place, then fit the spring to the bottom shoe and use that as a "lever/ hand hold" to stretch the spring into position. Thats the way I recall doing it when I renewed all the rear handbrake kit recently, then I used pliers on the weaker 2nd spring. I'm getting on myself now, and getting weaker too and I don't recall any real issues ( save remembering the way the postbox shoe retaining springs worked. Put a note in the old Haynes manual for that for next time - cos I'll 100% forget )


Cheers
Bob

[John97Tdi]

Ditto to the above. The 1A Auto video, mentioned in one of the early posts, shows more 'finesse' than 'brute strength and ignorance' in fitting new shoes and makes the process much less traumatic.

[Bashy]

Originally Posted by 100K+

Sorry guys, if this is wrong, but I think I fit the top shoe in place, then fit the spring to the bottom shoe and use that as a "lever/ hand hold" to stretch the spring into position. Thats the way I recall doing it when I renewed all the rear handbrake kit recently, then I used pliers on the weaker 2nd spring. I'm getting on myself now, and getting weaker too and I don't recall any real issues ( save remembering the way the postbox shoe retaining springs worked. Put a note in the old Haynes manual for that for next time - cos I'll 100% forget )


Cheers
Bob

I followed the Haynes and Vida, both say to connect the smaller spring to both shoes, then fit the shoes using the retaining springs, then fit the larger spring.

Doing it the other way, ie, fitting the lager spring 1st then fitting the shoes using the 2 retaining springs, can you still open the shoes up so you can slide in that spacer for the left had side? If so then i will try it that way next time

BTW, brakes are better

[100K+]

Originally Posted by Bashy

I followed the Haynes and Vida, both say to connect the smaller spring to both shoes, then fit the shoes using the retaining springs, then fit the larger spring.

Doing it the other way, ie, fitting the lager spring 1st then fitting the shoes using the 2 retaining springs, can you still open the shoes up so you can slide in that spacer for the left had side? If so then i will try it that way next time

BTW, brakes are better

There is a vid link on post 2 (jasonE) never seen it before I read this thread. I did my brakes exactly the same way was she did. Perhaps I should have said stronger spring ( difficult to fit after shoe installed) first. Weaker spring ( fitted using pliers ) fitted second.
Once you do the job once the next time is easier. Just remembering the way those letterbox slot fasteners work is the hard bit. - remember NOT to twist them cos if you do you'll be on all day. They are PUSH and slide left or right and its the same direction as the top bit of the spring as it starts to run to the coils, to remove them. The nipping piece is on the left so the hooky bit is on the right and so to remove it it needs to slide to the left. It will make sense if you look at the fastener.


Cheers
Bob