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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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Engine cut out and Lambda sensorViews : 2509 Replies : 35Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Sep 20th, 2021, 02:31 | #11 |
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Yes, they can get bunged up and the pipes can come loose. Just have a check of the electrical connection whilst there. If the valve looks suspect throw it in the bin and get a new one! Shame your not closer I would of said bring it round and a fresh pair of eyes may have got it running right. Try changing that filter too because of its done 80K that will be well past its sell by date. When you have drained it cut the can open with a hack saw, you will be horrified how bad it will be inside. Did you check the two little holes inside the throttle body that go to the brass nipple things were totally unblocked?
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Oct 27th, 2021, 22:51 | #12 |
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Hi again
So finally got a new fuel filter and changed it at the weekend. It seems to start up a bit quicker but I could be imagining it, but it will be better for it anyway. I haven't had any issues until this evening where it gave two hiccups (didn't actually stop) and the check engine light came on. Luckily I was prepared this time and while it was still running I got the fault codes. The results were: 2-2-4 (Engine coolant temp (ECT) sensor signal absent or faulty) 1-4-4 (No load signal from fuel injection system, Bad fuel injection relay; faulty wiring from LH to EZK; bad LH module) The 1-4-4 disappeared after I turned the ignition off and back on again and the only readout I got was the 2-2-4 error. Would the 1-4-4 record be caused by the 2-2-4 error? It might be a dodgy temperature sensor after the head was reconditioned? Thanks Justin |
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Oct 28th, 2021, 00:46 | #13 |
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Question.
Is the temperature sender the one in position 2 under Cylinder 2 inlet manifold or is it the one in position 4 under Cylinder 4 inlet manifold? Thanks Justin |
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Oct 28th, 2021, 08:47 | #14 |
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It is the more awkward one - i.e. the one hidden under No.3 cylinder. The easily accessible one is for the temperature gauge.
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Nov 2nd, 2021, 22:36 | #15 |
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Thanks for the guidance.
I reseated the plug a couple of times in case it was just bad contact. Tug tested the wiring with the engine running and it was all Ok. So I'm thinking bad contact in the sensor so probably a "when" rather than an "if" it dies permanently. I'll get a new one and swap it out. I assume I have to drain some of the coolant out when I remove it? Thanks Justin |
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Nov 2nd, 2021, 23:02 | #16 | |
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Quote:
Once loose, if you spin it out with the fingers of one hand and have the other hadn holding the new one then swap the sensors between hands and get the new one screwed in fairly quickly, you should only lose a dribble of coolant. That's what i did with mine when i did it but in fairness, mine is much easier to access : If you can position yourself in the right place, no reason you can't do similar on the redblock, helpful to lift the bonnet vertically as well, move the catches on the hinges and lift it past its normal stop to vertical so you have more space to lean over.
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Dec 23rd, 2021, 17:00 | #17 |
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Christmas Grinch has been at the car
So I put in a new temperature sensor a couple of weeks ago. Then last week it glitched again but this time with just the 1-4-4 error on the ignition code (no other). At a loss now. Another thread suggested the Fuel Pump Relay or the RSC (ignition) relay. I have methodically swapped those out but no joy it still reoccurs. It has happened a couple of times since this and today in the middle of the M50 (think M25 but with fewer lanes). The description on the fault says "Bad fuel injection relay; faulty wiring from LH to EZK; bad LH module". I think I can rule out the Fuel injection relay. I have a spare EZK off the 1996 car but it is a 0 227 400 219 and the one in the car is a 0227 400 148. Is there any difference? What is the LH Module? Any help getting some Christmas cheer? Thanks Justin |
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Dec 23rd, 2021, 17:30 | #18 |
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I see in this thread it was the Fuel Relay.
I will check the contacts to the Relay in case they are corroded. https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...+Module&page=2 Fairly sure its not the Crankcase Position Sensor as I had that at the start of the year and there is a genuine Volvo one it it and I've barely driven much miles given the pandemic. Also when this failed before there was no 1-4-4 error. Fault seems to happen when the car is fully warmed up (after 40-60mins of driving) so thinking its some electrical connection getting hot and loosing contact. I've tug tested the CPS and Temperature sensor wires when it running and also wiggled the Fuel pump relay but to no effect. BTW what's an LH Module? Last edited by jlawler; Dec 23rd, 2021 at 18:21. |
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Dec 23rd, 2021, 18:40 | #19 | |
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Quote:
Try pulling fuses #11 & #13, clean the blades with some emery tape (NOT sandpaper) and check the fusible link between the blades. Refit and see how it goes from there. Obviously if you happen to notice the link is fragile as you clean the blades, renew the fuse(s). Also check the fuel pump relay is firmly pushed down in its socket in the relay board. Not sure on the exact differences if any on the EZK ECU, the LH ECU will be the injection ECU in the right kick panel behind the trim and controls the injection (and the fuel pump!) but it sounds like a fuel related problem as in supply of fuel. This can cause a number of codes to come up, seemingly unrelated. Worth noting that one of those fault codes suggests the air flow meter, if you unplug the MAF and try starting it should still start, it just won't rev up.
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Dec 23rd, 2021, 19:40 | #20 |
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The engine just dies. Not spluttering like a fuel issue. Just dead coasting down the road at 60mph engine being turned over by the vehicle. Rev counter drops to zero.
Feels much more like an electrical/ignition issue than fuel in that it is sudden death (though I know the relay also feeds into the injection system). I double-checked the fuel pump relay seating. Thanks I'll try the MAF test. I'm suspicious because of the previous problems that it related to fixing those. Hence the Temperature sensor could have been damaged during getting the head reconditioned. It took me a while to track down the previous CPS sensor issue so I would have been messing around with the ignition relay, ignition amplifier etc. Though I did re-heatsink that at the time. Last edited by jlawler; Dec 23rd, 2021 at 19:49. |
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