Faulty wheel bearing?

[MikeS100]

Just watched the guide from A1 Autos and it doesn't seem as bad a job as I thought it would be.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jrgI...e_gdata_player

[Thanatos]

Really no need to loosen the strut top

[MikeS100]

Originally Posted by Thanatos

Really no need to loosen the strut top

I did wonder about that. I guess it gives you the freedom to move the strut about but I would probably try to do it without touching that first.

Assuming that it is the bearing at fault, what else needs to be renewed while I'm doing it? Is it worth getting new bolts all round? I imagine that some of them are going to be on pretty tight, especially the 4 holding the hub on as said earlier, so is it a good idea to replace them all with new ones?

What about the drop link, is that worth renewing as looks like it has to come off anyway?

[Thanatos]

I renewed my drop links after bending one and yes get new bolts volvo ones come with bolts

I won't be bending them again though mine are now fully adjustable rose jointed and 20mm thick.

[MikeS100]

Originally Posted by Thanatos

I renewed my drop links after bending one and yes get new bolts volvo ones come with bolts

I won't be bending them again though mine are now fully adjustable rose jointed and 20mm thick.

Nice! Where they expensive?

[blackrevolver]

Mike just to jump into this thread (between Thanatos and his great advice)....I had a faulty wheel bearing and the symptoms where exactly as you describe.

Car sounds like an aeroplane engine, noise increases with speed and the scraping sound when turning is a bad sign and that means theres a chance the wheel could come off if left any longer, mine was the passenger side.

[Thanatos]

Originally Posted by MikeS100

Nice! Where they expensive?

£65 so reasonably expensive

[PNuT]

Originally Posted by MikeS100

Great, thanks. Yeah, I'm hoping the socket will go through the centre of the wheel if I take the centre cap off but worst case scenario I would put the temporary steel on and go through the centre of that. I can't imagine I would get very far if I tried to undo the driveshaft nut with it already jacked up!

The socket wont fit through an alloy

& they are very very tight!!

[MikeS100]

Thanks guys. Sounds like this is definitely going to be a job for the weekend then I've been driving it for a while with it making the noise so I think I'll use the V70 for work for the rest of the week. It was just bad timing as the PAS pump went on the V70 just after the noise started on the C70 so I had to keep driving it as the V70 was going nowhere! But now that's done (although I do suspect a leaking rack but just topping the fluid up for now) I can get round to looking at the C70.

It wasn't that bad until I hit a pot hole. Ruined the tyre, damaged the wheel rimmed and knackered the bearing in one go!

[MikeS100]

Got a quote from FRF today, £180 including delivery. Considering that's a genuine Volvo part and comes with 6 new bolts and a new driveshaft nut I think that's pretty good. The unipart one was £104 but that was just the hub, no bolts or driveshaft nut. So I'll get it in the air tomorrow morning and check it but I'm sure that will be the issue, then FRF can get it in to them overnight and then send it on nexy day courier so I should have it on Friday ready to change at the weekend.

First time I have used FRF and I'm impressed with the price and the delivery speed. Not to mention the convenience of having it delivered to my door!