Swirl Throttle Control Problem - Page 2

a993lad · Apr 27th, 2012, 19:17

Hi guys

Right - good news I hope

Picked up the fixing kit from Volvo parts dept today - £6.

Fitted it easily in about 20 minutes, between rain showers today. The tip about melting the hole through the ball socket to put the pin through was absolute genius - I'd never have thought of doing it that way.

So I now have the swirl arm reconnected and have saved £700 so thanks guys.

Will the whole thing just calibrate itself of do I need to do anything else before I start driving?

Marc

Thassos · Apr 27th, 2012, 22:38

Well done !.. nice result,, youll find that every 5th time the engine switches off the arm will drive fully in each direction until it pushes hard against the stop (this is the thing that will have caused the arm to weaken and break btw), it takes a bit of time to see this happen, as you actually have to start the engine the shut down, this is how it calibrates itself.

Do you have to do anything else.. not a lot apart from fit a rubber limit stop if you dont want to have it come adrift in the future

...

did you get any error messages on the dim?

a993lad · Apr 28th, 2012, 16:16

thanks Thassos

yes, I do have the engine system servuce required message coming up each time I start the car.

Marc

S60D5-185 · Apr 28th, 2012, 19:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by a993lad

thanks Thassos

yes, I do have the engine system servuce required message coming up each time I start the car.

Marc

Give it a day or so.That should clear itself

RobbieH · Apr 28th, 2012, 19:45

Good result and shows the worth of consulting the forum first. Sometimes these dealers take the proverbial

kenny37 · Apr 28th, 2012, 20:22

Mine has been disconnected for more than a year with no problems but last week after a bit of spiited driving.... had the engine service light on which did go out after a couple of days. Had read about putting the stop in but never got around to it has had never seen the actuator moving to see where roughly to put the stop. I have now seen it moved and was amazed how far the travel was after seeing where others had put there stop? The off position at 11 o`clock but the open position at the 3 o`clock is this right ? As the stops i`ve seen look like it should be 1 ish?

Jetmech · Apr 29th, 2012, 11:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenny37

Mine has been disconnected for more than a year with no problems but last week after a bit of spiited driving.... had the engine service light on which did go out after a couple of days.

Kenny
Out of interest what was the position of arm on the engine when the warning message occurred? Did you have it secured or just left it where it was after you had removed the arm? I ask because I decided, after reading various threads on this subject, that it is a lack of mass flow detected at 3000 RPM or above, caused by closed or partially closed swirl valves, that triggers this message. Therefore by securing the swirl valves open the mass flow should always be sufficient at high RPM.
I could be completely wrong about this, but so far I have had no message. Of course I rarely if ever rev the engine past 3000 RPM!

kenny37 · Apr 29th, 2012, 19:52

Jetmech The flap was in the closed position. Have done high revs before and no problems so dont know what changed this time.

a993lad · May 21st, 2012, 16:03

A quick update from me in case it helps anyone.

Having fixed the problem using the £5 Volvo pin/clip kit I tought all was well. Alas 2 days later the warning message appeared and when I checked the ball joint connection again the pin had disappeared and the swirl arm was disconnected.

I found the clip that pushed onto the volvo pin in the engine compartment but the pin has vanished down the road I guess.

My guess is that when the motor yanked the arm forward on one of it's calibration sweeps the force on the pin meeant the clip came off the end. The pin/clip is not going to stand much force because the clip just pushes over the end of the clip and is only kept there by friction. The buffer stop migfht resolve this.

But I resorted to my own solution and sourced a small calibre (smallest I could get) bolt with nylock nut. It's not much bigger in diameter than the Volvo pin but the nut can't fall off. It needs to be pretty small to fit into the recess that the arm goes into when the valve is closed.

I've had this bolt/nut fitted for a few weeks now and all seems fine.

pm me if anyone needs pics

Marc

outnumbered · May 21st, 2012, 16:30

put the pics up it will help others in there quest

mike

Apr 27th, 2012, 22:38	#12
Thassos GoldMember Last Online: Jun 7th, 2024 20:13 Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Kent, UK	Calibrate Well done !.. nice result,, youll find that every 5th time the engine switches off the arm will drive fully in each direction until it pushes hard against the stop (this is the thing that will have caused the arm to weaken and break btw), it takes a bit of time to see this happen, as you actually have to start the engine the shut down, this is how it calibrates itself. Do you have to do anything else.. not a lot apart from fit a rubber limit stop if you dont want to have it come adrift in the future ... did you get any error messages on the dim?

Apr 28th, 2012, 19:45	#15
RobbieH Two wheeled lycra lout Last Online: Jan 30th, 2024 16:56 Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Salford View Photos By: RobbieH	Good result and shows the worth of consulting the forum first. Sometimes these dealers take the proverbial __________________ Can we share the road please. Yes, I am insured on both 2 and 4 wheels. Not a motorist, not a cyclist, but a road user. 54 V70 D5 SE (163, EUIII) MTE, Eibach, Powerflex, IPD arb's, TWR FMIC, Ferrita cat-back.

Apr 28th, 2012, 20:22	#16
kenny37 Senior Member Last Online: Apr 14th, 2019 20:13 Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: dumfries	Mine has been disconnected for more than a year with no problems but last week after a bit of spiited driving.... had the engine service light on which did go out after a couple of days. Had read about putting the stop in but never got around to it has had never seen the actuator moving to see where roughly to put the stop. I have now seen it moved and was amazed how far the travel was after seeing where others had put there stop? The off position at 11 o`clock but the open position at the 3 o`clock is this right ? As the stops i`ve seen look like it should be 1 ish? __________________ Ex Volvo owner

Apr 29th, 2012, 19:52	#18
kenny37 Senior Member Last Online: Apr 14th, 2019 20:13 Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: dumfries	Jetmech The flap was in the closed position. Have done high revs before and no problems so dont know what changed this time. __________________ Ex Volvo owner

May 21st, 2012, 16:30	#20
outnumbered Lunatic from Wakefield Last Online: Apr 16th, 2023 06:33 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: wakefield	put the pics up it will help others in there quest mike __________________ 2012 volvo xc90 Executive Buccaneer Bermuda 2021

Apr 27th, 2012, 19:17	#11
a993lad Junior Member Last Online: Dec 16th, 2015 14:00 Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: cambridge	Hi guys Right - good news I hope Picked up the fixing kit from Volvo parts dept today - £6. Fitted it easily in about 20 minutes, between rain showers today. The tip about melting the hole through the ball socket to put the pin through was absolute genius - I'd never have thought of doing it that way. So I now have the swirl arm reconnected and have saved £700 so thanks guys. Will the whole thing just calibrate itself of do I need to do anything else before I start driving? Marc

Apr 28th, 2012, 16:16	#13
a993lad Junior Member Last Online: Dec 16th, 2015 14:00 Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: cambridge	thanks Thassos yes, I do have the engine system servuce required message coming up each time I start the car. Marc

May 21st, 2012, 16:03	#19
a993lad Junior Member Last Online: Dec 16th, 2015 14:00 Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: cambridge	A quick update from me in case it helps anyone. Having fixed the problem using the £5 Volvo pin/clip kit I tought all was well. Alas 2 days later the warning message appeared and when I checked the ball joint connection again the pin had disappeared and the swirl arm was disconnected. I found the clip that pushed onto the volvo pin in the engine compartment but the pin has vanished down the road I guess. My guess is that when the motor yanked the arm forward on one of it's calibration sweeps the force on the pin meeant the clip came off the end. The pin/clip is not going to stand much force because the clip just pushes over the end of the clip and is only kept there by friction. The buffer stop migfht resolve this. But I resorted to my own solution and sourced a small calibre (smallest I could get) bolt with nylock nut. It's not much bigger in diameter than the Volvo pin but the nut can't fall off. It needs to be pretty small to fit into the recess that the arm goes into when the valve is closed. I've had this bolt/nut fitted for a few weeks now and all seems fine. pm me if anyone needs pics Marc

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)