Brake Fluid Change

[maarty]

Originally Posted by donutdobermann

Can anybody tell me how much new brake fluid is needed for a complete change on my 2007 S80 D5 Geartronic. I believe you need DOT 4 or DOT 5 but not sure what the difference is between the two. Any advantage in using Genuine Volvo Brake Fluid ?.

DOT 4 and dot 5 are very different one being glycol based the other synthetic

Not a good idea to use dot 5 in a system designed to use DOT 4

DOT 5.1 is however glycol based




Maybe as said your better tasking someone who knows what they are doing with the job

[TimS]

Just booked the 4th year service for my V70 (only 28K miles). Dealer told me they normally recommend brake fluid change at 4 years (something like 70 quid). I've declined since the brakes feel fine.

What do other people do? I was in two minds about having it changed.

[Simon Jones]

They might feel fine but as brake fluid is hydroscopic (it absorbs water) it could quietly be rusting away inside the pipework and calipers. It also reduces the temperature at which the fluid boils so you can find that under heavy braking, the moisture starts to turn to steam and the brakes start to go spongy. The general recommendation is 2 to 3 years but many folk seem to ignore it and probably for most of them, nothing bad happens.

[green van man]

Originally Posted by TimS

Just booked the 4th year service for my V70 (only 28K miles). Dealer told me they normally recommend brake fluid change at 4 years (something like 70 quid). I've declined since the brakes feel fine.

What do other people do? I was in two minds about having it changed.

Change it every 2-3 years. I use a sealey vacuum bleeder, £46 off e bay and some 5mm washer tubing, £2or £3 from motor factors.

I clamp off the flexible hose with a hose clamp, remove the bleed nipple, grease it and replace loosely, attach washer pipe and remove clamp, pump vacuums into the bleeder remove reservoir top and gently poor fresh fluid into it as the old is sucked out. When sufficient fluid has been flushed through the system filling the reservoir gives enough time to duck under the car and close the nipple, removing the washer tube sucks the fluid in the pipe into the container so no mess. Move on to next wheel and repeat.

I let 250ml of fluid come out of every nipple to be sure it was all changed. £17 for a gallon of mintex dot 4 brake fluid, did both my cars and some left for topping up if needed.
The top up fluid gets dumped at the next change and renewed as even in storage it absorbs moisture from the air.

I have had a dealer snap both rear caliper nipples on one occasion, which is why I now do it myself and grease the nipple threads every time.
A hexagonal socket is helpful to remove the nipple as there is less chance of rounding it off.

Paul.

[TimS]

I think on reflection I'll ask the dealer to change it after all. Compared to the general service costs & depreciation, it's nothing.

I last did this job myself about 25 years ago, with a jam jar, some pipe, a mate to help & a broom handle to press the brake pedal so I could keep an eye on things. I suspect that wasn't the approved method.

When I bought my old 3.0 Capri, you could make the pedal sink to the floor if you held it. Fortunately Ford sold a master cylinder seal kit & I rebuilt it[1], after which it was fine. I can't even see the equivalent bits in the Volvo.

[1] Although the brakes were still completely crap, but that was by design. Added to the fun.