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Shakin' all over

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Old Jan 17th, 2016, 15:32   #11
rwdkev
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Will,

You beat me to on the subject of smoke!

white smoke = unburned fuel
black smoke = partially burned fuel
blue smoke = oil

I'd start with the basics of injector reconditioning, pump timing and idle speed. Whilst these might not cure the problem, they are worth doing regardless as they can only help the engine run better.

The fact that it is hunting when warm may also be poor quality fuel or fuel starvation caused by blocked fuel filter or underfuelling caused by incorrect pump adjustment.

If the cold start device is working, then the fact that this temporarily raises the idle speed when the engine is cold could be masking the problem. When the engine is warm, the cold start device back-off and the pump returns to its basic idle setting.
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Old Jan 18th, 2016, 09:56   #12
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Originally Posted by jaydbass View Post
Belts were all done last year according to the previous owner. Any way to tell if this is the case?
If the previous owner didn't do the cam belt service job himself, contact the garage to get a full copy of the receipt.

First question, has the engine been serviced correctly as regards the air filter and fuel filter ??
When you replace the fuel filter it's always a good idea to fill the housing with a direct feed injection cleaner, like Liqui Moly Diesel Purge, as that will be more effective than an in tank additive. Make sure both O rings supplied with good quality (Volvo or Bosch) fuel filters are changed.

Next thing would be to GET THE HIDDEN FAULT CODES READ, cos there must be at least half a dozen potential causes of the symptoms described, including incorrect timing (One tooth out), HP pump fault, bad injectors and various sensors.
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Old Jan 18th, 2016, 10:11   #13
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I've not tried Forte but have done it another way - filling the filter with transmission oil (mineral), repeated every so often, as some type of extra lubrication is needed for the pump to compensate for the low sulphur fuel.
john
None of the diesel sold in the EU has a lubricity issue, although some of the cheap stuff does cause long term gum deposits in the injectors.
Some diesel sold in the US did have a problem with lubricity some years ago and it resulted in quite a number of damaged Bosch HP pumps, but that has been sorted now.
All EU fuel contains a percentage (Around 5) of Bio diesel and that extra is a real good pump lubricant.

I would never use anything other than a major brand fuel additive for cleaning, just in case it's not compatible with the seals.

If you think the fuel tank is dirty, do not use a Biocide or additive to clean it as all the gunk will finish up in the fuel filter and some cheaper additives are bad for the HP pump and seals. Just dump the fuel.
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Old Jan 18th, 2016, 18:37   #14
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Fault codes on a d24 760?


But seriously, Do the 940's d24's have OBD compliance?
Ive only ever worked on 760 d24's
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Old Jan 18th, 2016, 19:02   #15
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Originally Posted by monkeh View Post
Fault codes on a d24 760?


But seriously, Do the 940's d24's have OBD compliance?
Ive only ever worked on 760 d24's
Doesnt the abs have a obd1 port ?
I believe you read the fault codes on a d24 with a 17mm spanner ? Ha
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Old Jan 18th, 2016, 19:55   #16
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Originally Posted by skyship007 View Post
None of the diesel sold in the EU has a lubricity issue, although some of the cheap stuff does cause long term gum deposits in the injectors.
Some diesel sold in the US did have a problem with lubricity some years ago and it resulted in quite a number of damaged Bosch HP pumps, but that has been sorted now.
All EU fuel contains a percentage (Around 5) of Bio diesel and that extra is a real good pump lubricant.

I would never use anything other than a major brand fuel additive for cleaning, just in case it's not compatible with the seals.

If you think the fuel tank is dirty, do not use a Biocide or additive to clean it as all the gunk will finish up in the fuel filter and some cheaper additives are bad for the HP pump and seals. Just dump the fuel.
UK diesel has 7% bio added to it.
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Old Jan 18th, 2016, 19:59   #17
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Originally Posted by monkeh View Post
Fault codes on a d24 760?


But seriously, Do the 940's d24's have OBD compliance?
Ive only ever worked on 760 d24's
Not on MY1991 that's for sure. Mine was all mechanical. Never went on a computer at any of the main dealers or independents.
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Old Feb 5th, 2016, 11:56   #18
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The hunting problem is the Injectors my d24 tic suffered the exact same symptoms a quick fix i tried which is still working a year later is to get a new fuel filter (MANN) fill it up with (Liqui Moly Diesel Purge) and let it run and clean the gum off the injectors or use the old school diesel mechanis trick of filling the fuel filter with mineral ATF !!
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Old Feb 5th, 2016, 13:41   #19
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Originally Posted by frielp View Post
The hunting problem is the Injectors my d24 tic suffered the exact same symptoms a quick fix i tried which is still working a year later is to get a new fuel filter (MANN) fill it up with (Liqui Moly Diesel Purge) and let it run and clean the gum off the injectors or use the old school diesel mechanis trick of filling the fuel filter with mineral ATF !!
Old school tricks are not a good idea in a modern common rail injection system. ATF might be a good solvent, BUT it was designed for Auto boxes or steering gear and they use very different seals to a high pressure fuel pump or injectors, so there is a long term risk of damaging the HP pump in particular.

Mann make good quality filters, BUT some Volvo diesels were designed for use with long life fuel filters made by Bosch. They have a zig zag element pattern that most copies do not. I use Mann air and oil filters, BUT stick to genuine Volvo or Bosch main dealer fuel filters.
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