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Possible sticking caliper?

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Old Apr 18th, 2013, 20:58   #11
Volvo2002
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Hmm, was the wheel hot? I have had a good look around my wheel and am not sure regarding the caliper/cables just needing freeing up.....think the handbrake light on the dash just reflects the handbrake lever, not the caliper.

Cars & maintenance is getting costly these days
Car got a longer drive today and the wheel wasn't hot in the least. The handbrake light will come on even when the handbrake won't hold the car which leads me to believe the handbrake needs adjusted. There is also a possible leak coming from the caliper which a garage mentioned when it was up on the ramp.
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Old Apr 18th, 2013, 21:19   #12
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Car got a longer drive today and the wheel wasn't hot in the least. The handbrake light will come on even when the handbrake won't hold the car which leads me to believe the handbrake needs adjusted. There is also a possible leak coming from the caliper which a garage mentioned when it was up on the ramp.
The handbrake light just comes on when the lever is pulled, it does not mean the handbrake will work. I always leave my car in 1st gear with the wheel turned if there is a slope.
The brake fluid leak needs sorting asap. Sounds like a brake hose or connection to a caliper etc. If your brake system is like mine, if you run low on fluid the clutch won't work, as it has a common header tank.

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Old Apr 18th, 2013, 21:20   #13
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The handbrake light just comes on when the lever is pulled, it does not mean the handbrake will work.
I always leave my car in 1st gear with the wheel turned if there is a slope.
Yes, but mine needs pulled up quite high before the car holds. This is why I feel the handbrake isn't right.
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Old Apr 18th, 2013, 21:43   #14
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I always leave the car in gear. The handbrake was loose and easy to pull on with my caliper issue - you could point it towards the ceiling. Now it does 2 clicks and thats it. Skyship007 is right re-the handbrake light. Replace the caliper - it is worth it.

I drove 4 miles last saturday, when I first noticed an issue. Wheel was red hot to touch. Drove it 2 miles to the independent that i now use and the brake was hot and was ticking cool whilst I parked.

Pipes need sorting for you as a must. I replaced the caliper £132 inc VAT and labour, but had to replace my brake pads (which were new in Jan this year) as they had worn and done very high temps. Was told i was lucky i did not need new discs (new in Jan too). All in, £315 quid (on top of 2 tyres last weekend, service and MOT and front discs in Sept 12). Expensive day today!
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Old Apr 18th, 2013, 22:06   #15
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I always leave the car in gear. The handbrake was loose and easy to pull on with my caliper issue - you could point it towards the ceiling. Now it does 2 clicks and thats it. Skyship007 is right re-the handbrake light. Replace the caliper - it is worth it.

No warmth on any of my cars wheels . My handbrake goes right to the top before the car holds quite literally!
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Old Apr 18th, 2013, 23:26   #16
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have you tried adjusting it from the handbrake lever? i had the same issue with hills car would roll back, so i tightened the nut quite a bit that holds the cable now the car holds on very steep hills.
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Old Apr 18th, 2013, 23:58   #17
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have you tried adjusting it from the handbrake lever? i had the same issue with hills car would roll back, so i tightened the nut quite a bit that holds the cable now the car holds on very steep hills.
Nope. This weekend I plan on getting it looked into. My mechanic is changing the oil for me on Saturday, so will get him to give it a look
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Old Apr 19th, 2013, 07:20   #18
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The handbrake lever activates the switch that puts the light on the dash - so almost as soon as you touch the lever the light should come on.

If you remove the rear part of the centre console ( which you will need to do anyway to adjust the cables ) you can see the switch and cable going to it and you will be able to see how little movement is necessary to put the light on - the warning light has nothing to do with how good the handbrake is.

When I looked into this on here I found that you should check firstly that the handbrake levers on the calipers themselves are sitting fully against their stops before touching the handbrake adjustment.

If the handbrake is off and the levers arent on their stops you have a problem - you can try lubricating the lever mechanism as previously described but if that doesnt work it will need a new or reconditioned caliper.

Only when on both calipers the levers are sat against their stops and move freely should you adjust the handbrake cable at the handbrake end.

Just take the slack out of it by tightening the 10mm adjuster nut - do not over tighten it - you can check this by after you think you have taken all the slack out have another look under the car and check the caliper levers are still on their stops with the handbrake off.

Personally I would take what you think is all the slack out and then back it off a couple of turns just to make sure

You should then find your handbrake is much improved.

Hope this helps.
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Old Apr 20th, 2013, 15:52   #19
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Car had it's oil change today and turns out the Caliper is completely seized and is going to need a new or used caliper

Great !..

Explains all my symptoms then
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Old Apr 21st, 2013, 14:11   #20
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As I very recently found out, my seized caliper burned and wore the brake pads so I had to replace these too. Fortunately the discs were ok.

Feels better to drive - free wheeling is fun now! New caliper prob best as a used one could be a temporary fix.
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