B200F Head Gasket Change ... couple of querie ..

[stephend]

I got a head gasket set and a set of new stretch bolts from GSF. The gasket set had everything: the HG, and all the other gaskets, O-rings and goodness knows what else. Can't remember the prices - but nowhere near the prices you're looking at. Quality seemed fine.

[Stephen Edwin]

Sorry, who what where is GSF?

[Fridazadilak]

GSF is an auto factors, google them and you'll probably find one nearby. It stands for German, Swedish and French, which is what they used to deal with, but now they cover all makes.

Try partsforvolvosonline too, they're pretty good and very knowledgeable if you give them a call.

[Paul240480]

Parts For Volvo Gasket set here

I use them all the time, had great service so far

Have used GSF a lot too, recently have found their 'new' online shop a bit confusing. PFV's one is easier for me

Good luck, keep us updated.

[Stephen Edwin]

Thank you both. I see some serious cost savings available there.

Do all those suppliers send the items from within the UK or might I have to pat import duties?



Note to self: I might be able to afford to do this job on my Volvo ...

[Paul240480]

Both PFV and GSF are UK based. I still save having stuff sent over to France! I don't get any tax on stuff from UK. Only stuff from USA or Canada so far. The Douanes charged me 33€ on stuff that was about 80€ to purchase Wont be doing that again!
Good luck, you can do it

[Stephen Edwin]

Originally Posted by wooble

If the engine hasn't overheated, there's a good chance the head won't need to be skimmed. if it has, than it probably will. a steel rule (turned edge on) will do in a pinch, but I'd personally feel happier with a proper engineer's straight-edge.

Truthfully, I've stuck back on heads before that only showed a very very mild warp (I'm talking showing just a sliver of light under the straight edge), as the head bolts will pull it back straight when properly torqued, and never had one come back. if it has any serious degree of warpage though, it'll need to be either milled flat (£50-100 depending where you go, any decent engineering shop will be able to accomplish this), or just find a replacement cylinder head on here.

Personally I would detach the manifolds from the head. Your only worry here is the exhaust manifold nuts/studs - they will be rusty, degraded and stuck. at a minimum I'd give the threads a good clean and soak them in a good penetrating oil (not WD40!) for 24 hours before attempting to free them off. There's a not-insignificant chance that one of more may be damaged in the process of removing them, but it's not fatal - the studs can be renewed if they're in bad shape.

Other things, hmmm - while you're in there check the valve clearances - they're usually fine but if any are out of whack better to know. check the rubber hoses to the heater and replace them if necessary while you've got the the top of the engine apart - access is much easier with the intake manifold off. Again, give the flame trap / PCV system a good cleaning while you're in the area if it hasn't been done recently. When removing/replacing the head, be careful with the alignment dowels - they're easy to drop/lose/misplace, and a pain to replace, as well as causing havoc if one slips out of place during refitting and you don't notice. Check the head for corrosion damage on the face where coolant passes though - that IS something redblocks do fairly regularly and the head can be junk if the corrosion is bad enough.

I have started with the exhaust manifold nuts and after a little Plus Gas they were easy to loosen. So I can feed those studs with dribbles of Plus Gas over time as I work my way through removing the cambelt.

But that inlet manifold. How the devil does one get at the nuts to undo them?? And if I can't get a socket set to address those nuts, then how does one torque them when re-fitting? I don't see how even the 3/8 drive part of my kit would get at those nuts ...

(I like 3/8 for access et cetera .... I resort to 1/2 or 3/4 IF it is really necessary.)

[Paul240480]

I used a ring spanner with an 'off-set head' to get to mine.

did a few pics here:
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=119078
hth's

[Stephen Edwin]

Thank you very much for that Paul. Mine's a 200F but I can use that guide as a really good starting point. And I'm in luck. As well as combination spanners, I have one and only one swivel head ratchet spanner, and it is 13mm so it fits those nuts.

The exhaust manifold has pulled clear of the studs very easily. So far the studs look good. I was just being patient with the Plus Gas and time. Obviously I'll replace the nuts and washers and use say copper based grease to re-assemle.

Time to prepare a meal I think. The next stage must be the fan shroud, fan, radiator, drive belts and upper cambelt cover. Famous last words, that bit should be easy.

My thanks to whoever it was pointed out on another thread that removing the rad gives a much better view. And I want to get the rad out anyway to reverse flush it while I have a golden opportunity. And to remove the old pipe that I believe used to deliver warm air to the cold start valve.

[Stephen Edwin]

Getting ahead of myself. There's a hose I've been aware of for a while. From the water pump towards the rear of the engine. Below the exhaust manifold. Above the oil filter. It's red but that might not be original. My usual Volvo parts dealer can't identify it so far. My guess, it's part of the heater water system. Is there a known part number for it? Is it best replaced while one has access with the exhaust manifold moved aside? If so, well there are no hose clips, is there a recommended sealant for it? Or is it best .... do not disturb?