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Just bashed my Amazon Estate

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Old May 13th, 2013, 14:40   #151
Quarterless
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Not got round to doing the diff seal yet but it's on the list.
Got a run on issue when the key is removed. Any ideas how to solve it?
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Old May 14th, 2013, 08:59   #152
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And it is running okay otherwise?
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Old May 16th, 2013, 13:32   #153
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Yeah seems to be running fine and pulling really well. I have a lunenition Pro ignition system on it. Googling reports too much advance or carbon build ups on the pistons could be a cause. Any thoughts on this.
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Old May 16th, 2013, 14:37   #154
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Both reasons are valid. When new the high output spec engines used 100 octane. Now you have to mange on something a bit lower, even V-Power or similar isn't close but modern fuels do burn better as long as they are fresh. A couple of months in the tank and they start to lose some of the additives that maintain the octane. Some Tescos have a 100 octane pump so worth a try if your tank is empty. A degree or two back on the ignition should also help even if there isn't any obvious pinking..
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Old May 16th, 2013, 22:23   #155
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Is there good springiness on your distributor shaft? Grap hold of the rotor arm, twist it and let go - it shoudl spring back into position. If it's gone floppy, it'll go to it's fully advanced position and will run funny when at idle and run on when you switch the engine off. Otherwise, as Derek says, knock it back a couple of degrees

Alternatively, if your spindles on your carbs (are you running twins SU's) are leaking in air, it can run on. You could experiment by switching the engine off with the throttle open a little
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Old Jul 18th, 2013, 10:15   #156
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Cheers guys. Still need to check this although the run on has got a little less. Possibly due to adding some miles on the engine. Still only done 200 miles since getting it back up and running. Since then I have had a few close shaves with bolts coming undone. The upper wishbone mount, where I forgot to hammer down the lock tabs, decided to come undone and my car decided to change lanes on its own at 70 mph. Luckily no damage done and the shims didn't fall out! Also had the pinch bolt on my steering shaft drop out so have now replaced with a new bolt and nyloc.
Other than that the car seems to be going ok. Now the front is all poly bushed I can definately feel the looseness of the rear. When I get time I will have to recon the back end.
I'm not sure whether to recon my spare axle and fit that or just redo the one on the car though?
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Old Jul 18th, 2013, 10:41   #157
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If the axle in the car is quiet, i.e. little or no diff noise, probably best to use that unless you know the other one is at least as good. If it came from the one you cut up you probably don't know. However, if you kept the suspension arms etc from that one they can all be prepped and bushed for a quick refurb of this one.
Hope to see it at Battlesbridge this September?
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Old Jul 18th, 2013, 22:23   #158
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Twenty years or so ago I was running a 123gt that always ran on. I even tried fitting an anti dieseling valve from a ford if I remember. In the end I fitted an export head gasket which the old chaps at Anca garage got in for me. Problem solved even if it did mean sacrificing compression ratio.
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Old Aug 6th, 2013, 12:01   #159
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Very annoyed as my new washer bottle has already broken down the sides of the bracket it slides onto. Has anyone else had this? Anyone know any fixes/options other than a plastic bag?
Thanks
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Old Aug 6th, 2013, 17:42   #160
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New? If a "used" one I'd say you were just unlucky. Agreed, the fit on the bracket isn't very precise and forcing it down will stress the old plastic. Holding it up against a light will probably show thin spots where it rubs on the bracket.
I'd say inspect a replacement carefully and don't have too many costs of paint on the bracket. Zinc plate is thin and a good idea but I've not seen one finished that way.
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