What did you do to your x40 today???

[druid]

There is an event in Haslebury mill, crewecerne MAY 7TH

[ww1dm1]

Originally Posted by Antz

front to rear brake pipes need changing

How much work is that?

[Antz]

Originally Posted by ww1dm1

How much work is that?

No idea but its an over the fuel tank job and there's no way I'm going to lie under the car making brake pipes and feeling miserable when the garage can do it in half the time.

They did the ones on my mothers old V40 about 3 years ago when one blew out.

Luckily the garage I use is a bit lapse with his invoicing. I still owe him for the propshaft bearing replacement on my BMW E36 which he did two weeks ago. I only live up the road and he knows I'm not going anywhere so I get a bill whenever he can be bothered to draw it up basically.

[pierremcalpine]

Originally Posted by Antz

No idea but its an over the fuel tank job and there's no way I'm going to lie under the car making brake pipes and feeling miserable when the garage can do it in half the time.

They did the ones on my mothers old V40 about 3 years ago when one blew out.

Luckily the garage I use is a bit lapse with his invoicing. I still owe him for the propshaft bearing replacement on my BMW E36 which he did two weeks ago. I only live up the road and he knows I'm not going anywhere so I get a bill whenever he can be bothered to draw it up basically.

I just did my rear lines. Taking out the tank is pretty easy actually. I had read that the lines do commonly rust up above the tank but mine where absolutely fine...problem is, you won't know this until you take the tank off! Most important tip for this job: buy a reel of copper/nickel brake line NOT coated steel for three reasons: 1) flaring the coated steel is way more difficult due to hardness of the material and you will waste time re-doing the flares, 2) bending the CUNIC lines is so much easier due to softness, 3) adjusting the bends when the line is in place is a lot easier as well.

if you have a lot of rust, consider ordering some replacement clips for the rear lines: the large one under the car that connects all four hard lines (2 x fuel and 2 x brake) as well as the two at each end near each rear caliper and finally a few more (maybe 3-4) as the one line makes its way over the tank. Mine were rusted to s$%t.

I did not end up replacing the entire rear lines - I cut into both half way down the vehicle. The front half looked fine. Do your best to remove the old lines in a single piece for whatever length you are taking out. Then head to a large table, get an assistant to help hold the lines and try to replicate the bends putting the old next to the new. It does not need to be perfect. Use your hands and a socket to carefully create the bends without kinking the line.

Note that removal of the handbrake cable bracket will really help you get the old line out.

[ITSv40]

As Pierre has said ^^^^^
First attachment shows new pipes made up using the old pipe as a pattern and second fitted on the car.

[clarkey1984]

An extremely mundane task by torch light just now, the bulb thst does the right half of the speedo and the fuel gauge on the instrument cluster that used to not work for a day or two and then suddenly work again for weeks has now died, haven't got any spares so after failing to be able to get the whole thing out (bit of a barsteward isn't it?) I managed to get it turned about 90 degrees and switched two bulbs over so now it's just the bit behind the temp gauge that's dark.

[ww1dm1]

Man, the brake line job sounds like a nightmare and I might need to do it eventually. Anyone remembers the pipe specifications? I get the nickel/copper only part, what about diameter, thickness?

[pierremcalpine]

5mm / 3/16th. No need to drain the tank. Just make sure you run it till the light comes on and then run it until the number of miles to empty shows as blank. It will be nice and light by then.

[druid]

Got me some deflectors to keep the rain off the heated mirrors and i have a yellow knob now, not because i have been working on the car though.

[skyship007]

Spent some time in my local Indy tuning shop with both my V40 1.9D long range
cruiser and my Twingo 1.2 (Don't knock it as it has 16 valves) town car.

Whilst I was in the bay for an anti rust and health check for the Twingo, the subject of which EU legal standard winter tyres to fit when the present Conti's wear out came up, partly due to the damage done to both cars by, "She who must be obeyed".
One puncture (Small black screw), one ding and a nasty kerb job repair later, I got a quote for 4 AEOLUS 195/60 R15's 88v AA01 M&S tyres of 280 Euros total (Includes tax and all extras). Thats about 10 to 20 Euros per tyre less than Good Year Vectors M&S or the new Michellin equivalent all season.

Aeolus tyres are made by the biggest truck and agricultural vehicle tyre manufacturer in China and they don't seem to make rubbish tyres.
So, anyone know more about how good their tyres are AND if they know where I can find some braking distasnce tables for the size involved ??