Amazon: New (to me) 1963 Volvo 122

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Wagon Sailor

Thanks for this. I've just ordered a double pack.


As it is, the old battery may be able to be resuscitated. It was barely making 8v when I took it off the car in an ambient temperature of about +1'C. 11 hours on the charger later (indoors) and it's hovering around 12v.

We'll see.

I think I'll do the same, they are so simple there is nothing much to go wrong.

Do you have a pulse type charger (like the CTEK is, but there are lots of alternatives that probably work just as well)? I've had some considerable success reviving motorcycle batteries (smaller and it would seem a bit more prone to issues) over the years with that type of charger.

[Wagon Sailor]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

That sounds hopeful at least! See my post above about those "Dis-car-nect" battery isolators though..........

Thanks.

I can see that the in-line switches might be a bit cheap-and-cheerful, but that's all I need from time to time. I'll remove the thing once the 240 gets back into regular use and normal charging cycles. (And then probably put it on something else.)

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Wagon Sailor

Thanks.

I can see that the in-line switches might be a bit cheap-and-cheerful, but that's all I need from time to time. I'll remove the thing once the 240 gets back into regular use and normal charging cycles. (And then probably put it on something else.)

I’ve ordered one the same for GAM; I’ve only fitted one of these previously (the MX5 Euros), but that had a 100% success rate. For GAM the simplest possible solution is just fine.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Othen

I’ve ordered one the same for GAM; I’ve only fitted one of these previously (the MX5 Euros), but that had a 100% success rate. For GAM the simplest possible solution is just fine.

It's highly possible that if those things are in regular use to disconnect any and all loads during a period of lay-up that they will function 100% over a prolonged period. I think it would be reasonably fair to assume all those i saw had never been touched since the day they were fitted and as such, corroded on all contact areas.

If being used purely as a theft deterrent, the wise owner will wire a fuseholder across from the battery to the output of the disconnect unit and fit a 10A fuse or similar to operate the courtesy/boot/bonnet lights, clock and radio memory etc. As such, with the knob removed that forms the high current connection, the above will function as intended (but still draw current over a period of time obviously) but if someone tries starting the car, the starter current will blow the fuse immediately. The courtesy lights etc will stop operating and the would-be thief then thinks the battery has died and leaves the car alone.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

It's highly possible that if those things are in regular use to disconnect any and all loads during a period of lay-up that they will function 100% over a prolonged period. I think it would be reasonably fair to assume all those i saw had never been touched since the day they were fitted and as such, corroded on all contact areas.

If being used purely as a theft deterrent, the wise owner will wire a fuseholder across from the battery to the output of the disconnect unit and fit a 10A fuse or similar to operate the courtesy/boot/bonnet lights, clock and radio memory etc. As such, with the knob removed that forms the high current connection, the above will function as intended (but still draw current over a period of time obviously) but if someone tries starting the car, the starter current will blow the fuse immediately. The courtesy lights etc will stop operating and the would-be thief then thinks the battery has died and leaves the car alone.

I would not recommend one of these isolators for a modern motor car Dave, but for GAM (and I think for Wagon Sailor’s application) it will be the perfect solution: really cheap (a fiver delivered) and really simple (one moving part). GAM doesn’t have any bonnet lights, clocks or radios so this will be fine.

[Othen]

The December issue of Volvo Driver arrived in the mail this morn. I was leafing through over a cuppa and came across a lovely photo of Bob at the top of pp13. It was taken at the Sywell Amazon gathering on 18 September (which was really good).



Bob is delighted

[Steve 940]

Originally Posted by Othen

The December issue of Volvo Driver arrived in the mail this morn. I was leafing through over a cuppa and came across a lovely photo of Bob at the top of pp13. It was taken at the Sywell Amazon gathering on 18 September (which was really good).

Bob is delighted

Well your posties have taken their time, my issue of the magazine dropped through my front door around 3 weeks or so ago.

Just referred back to P13, and what a lovely pose from Bob.

Glad you had a great meet.

Cheers
Steve

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Steve 940

Well your posties have taken their time, my issue of the magazine dropped through my front door around 3 weeks or so ago.

Just referred back to P13, and what a lovely pose from Bob.

Glad you had a great meet.

Cheers
Steve

I despair of the Royal Mail - perhaps the poor service is local to Corby, which rather confirms my observation that it is down to the posties themselves.

Yes, good photo of Bob, he is a handsome chap.

:-)

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Othen

I despair of the Royal Mail - perhaps the poor service is local to Corby, which rather confirms my observation that it is down to the posties themselves.

Yes, good photo of Bob, he is a handsome chap.

:-)

It's no wonder it's known as Snail-Mail, Royal Snail and similar!

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Othen

This would seem to be just the ticket for £6.99:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321217150...Bk9SR_6w---XYQ

... apart from a little bit of wire and some crimped on connectors that I'll have anyway £7 should be it.

:-)

I got bored waiting for the Royal Mail to deliver some 10mm female spade connectors that I'd ordered more than a fortnight ago and so bought them from Amazon - and of course they came the next day. The only downside way I had to buy a pack of 100 - so I have 98 spare 10mm female spade connectors if anyone needs some :-).

Anyway, I got on with fitting the little starter relay today:



I found a redundant screw on the nearside wing (I suspect to secure brake pipes on LHD motor cars) and used that to fix the relay, then ran some 4mm^2 single core to the battery post on the starter, the exciter terminal and earth, then hooked up the original switch wire. The wiring is trivial:



So now I have a solenoid operating a solenoid operating the starter. The impedance across pins 85/86 was about 80Ω, so the switch in the cabin should only be passing about 0.2A now, instead of maybe 40A instantaneously and perhaps 10A continuous current whilst the starter span with the original design.

It all seems to work fine, GAM started up normally half a dozen times, so I hope the intermittent starter switching problem is solved.

These simple fixes are so satisfying on older motor cars.