Clutch trouble

Hi all,

I'm a newbie here, so forgive me if this question has been around before....
I've got a 1990 740 petrol that's done 300k (km, not miles) and I've got a feeling the clutch is approaching the end of its career. Especially when the engine's cold it can be a bit..... shocking if you know what I mean.
How hard is it to replace a clutch, and how expensive should it be to have it done? I'm new to car maintenance, but I'm after rebuilding a Goldwing engine....

Thanx,
Duq

[sheerwater]

Not particularly difficult if you have a trolley jack,2 ramps and a haynes manual. Also a friend helps. 4 hours by myself!!!
Just done it myself on a 940 which is almost identical.
Bear with me if I miss anthing out!!!!!
diaconnect battery, Put a bar or thick piece of wood from wing to wing and a rope to support engine so if the engine tips back it does not smash distributor. If you can get at top two gearbox bolts now do so but can be done later.
On the ground disconnect battery and maybe easier to undo exhaust.
tie bar so engine doesnt tip to far, on the ramp, take off slave cylinder with clip pliers, undo the engine underplate (ally) which has 4 bolts on engine ,2 on gearbox. undo exhaust and tie away, including engine stay, undo 4 bolts holding crossmember and lower with care so distributor is not smashed,(tighten rope accordingly), support gearbox on trolley jack or if not available something like a plastic beer crate, take off crossmember completely, undo prop CAREFULLY MARKING ALL PLATES/RUBBER/bolts for proper reassembly.tie to one side.
Undo gearlever pin which has a small hex screw and disconnect from bar.
Disconnect any rev light/overdrive electrics.
Undo remaining bell housing/engine bolts. You can reach them all with extension sockets for the top ones(if not you may be able to reach them in the initial on the road condition at the start)
.Making sure all bolts off prise gearbox away from engine.
Support gearbox and lower to expose clutch.
Undo the 6 hex screws/bolts and remove old components.
Check spiggot bearing in flywheel is ok. Clean all surfaces with meths (not wd40!!!!!) Now wash your hands!!!!! Everything mustt be greaseless on reassembly. If you want a cheap cluch alignment tool get a piece of pipe or dowell and wrap masking tape to fit clutch plate and spiggot bearing.
Assemble clutch. Now bolt gearbox on. Sometimes you have to tip gearbox yo miss body in the first stage. If you are having trouble aligning the gearbox shaft turning emgine with a spanner often works.
Watch the timing sensor as you mate gearbox to engine. The rest is reverse order of dissasembly. Important...the metal plate on the prop rubber aligns with the gearbox flange i.e. same bolts. The garage time states about 1hr75mins Two of us have done it in 2 hrs 30 minutes on axle stands and as I said 4 hours by myself. Only real problem is gearbox weight so a friend is of use to mate it up. As the gearbox is heavy just before you align it up make sure you have the thrust bearing and arm seated properly. Its easy to knock if struggling. Its also worth checking the pivot bearing for clutch arm for wear and clean/grease slightly. I beilieve the cost in volvo is around £500-600 but eurospares sell for about £150 or less so its a great saving for a days work. PS you may need RADOX for the bath afterwards!!! Hope I havent missed anything out but there are minor variations depending on model, one other thing is note all bolts as some are longer than others in the same place. Cheers Nigel