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S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004. |
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GUIDE : Changing your brake padsViews : 6383 Replies : 18Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Oct 1st, 2007, 19:33 | #11 |
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Location: Gravesend, Kent
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Very useful, thanks (as is your equally helpful post on gearstick linkage)!
I have a 240 and know how to do a fair bit of stuff on that, but will be getting a V40 soon so this is very timely advice ... and a fine example of what this forum is best used for. |
Oct 1st, 2007, 20:29 | #12 |
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Last Online: Sep 27th, 2008 12:39
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Location: Gillingham, Dorset.
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Ditto about the bleed nipple if ABS fitted, also if you don't want to have horrible squealing brakes 100 miles down the road, buy a tin/tube of copper anti seize grease and liberally coat all metal to metal contact areas of pads/calipers/carriers when fitting the new ones, obviously making sure you wire brush these areas when everything stripped out.
Do it once and do it well and you will have happy, quiet, efficient brakes! |
Oct 2nd, 2007, 09:07 | #13 |
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Location: Derbyshire
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Gophur and manoman - you're both more than welcome
Dandle, the fluid's in a very poor state and a fluid change is on the cards but I had a cylinder block to strip down which takes priority! I've had the bleed nipple discussion before (different car, same argument) and if your fluid is dirty then it isn't going to help you anyway. Not going to start an argument, the logic is there but I've never seen anyone have the problem so it's up to you Copper slip is a good tip though,just didn't have any to hand
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Oct 2nd, 2007, 09:56 | #14 |
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Last Online: Aug 17th, 2008 11:01
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Alright, well I did this last night and noticed a few things.
The top 12mm bolt on the caliper (on my car anyway) had a very short head, meaning that combined with the rust I couldn't get it off. The bottom one was fine, it had a proper head and came off with a little persuasion. I then found that I could swing the caliper upwards to remove and refit the pads without lostening the top bolt. Might be of use to anyone on the same position. On trying to get the bolts off for the carrier, I decided that it was impossible, and that it must be held on with some kind of witchcraft. Any ideas on getting it off without stripping the head? Discs could do with doing soon. I need to do the rear ones as well some point soon, I may well take a leaf from your book and post a guide up if I can get the missus to take some shots. Oh and incidentally, don't get your woman to watch the brake fluid tank while you're retracting the pistons. Mine failed to spot a massive rise in the fluid level, almost resulting in brake goo all over everything..... |
Oct 2nd, 2007, 10:09 | #15 |
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Last Online: Oct 20th, 2013 20:24
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Location: Derbyshire
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Yes, pivotting on the top bolt is normal when doing the pads. The reason I showed both is so you can do the disc too
I'd be inclined to sort that top bolt if you can I didn't find any witchcraft on mine Jack the car up VERY high and you'll get a breaker bar on them, leverage is the best way Women suck at cars, I could tell you some stories but I promised I wouldn't!
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Mar 11th, 2009, 14:18 | #16 |
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absolutely brilliant, used this today to replace discs and pads on my V40,
just the rear to do now ! Thanks Guys |
Mar 11th, 2009, 21:16 | #17 |
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Location: Dundee
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Really good photo guide-one point,while you're in there you should take the guide pins out and clean them and re-grease,they're prone to seizing up.
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Apr 1st, 2009, 18:54 | #18 |
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Fantastic guide (as always on this forum), had to rapidly change the rear pads on my S40 yesterday after the passenger side starting grinding!
Anyway if i could add 1 or 2 things just in case anyone has the same problems as me... My caliper could not be swivelled upwards or downwards by just undoing one bolt, this was due to the location of the brake hose (dont know if anyone elses is on the bottom?) but after removing both bolts i managed to secure it tightly enough to push the piston back in. This is my second point, my piston needed to to be rotated in so i forked out the best £18 of my life and bought a special tool to push it back in and it works a dream. Lastly definatley clean and grease the guide pins, this was the cause of my grinding...my pads had worn unevenly due to sticking/seized pins. Again many thanks to anyone who puts a guide on here. |
Mar 14th, 2011, 22:32 | #19 |
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Mods, can this guide be added to the articles section please? seems a shame not to make the most of the resource..
I used the guide once before so i knew it existed but it's come round to needing doing again and i needed a refresher to give me some confidence! |
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