water pump ??

[flatstick]

morning folks, after a great run back from somerset to derbyshire yesterday, i parked the caravan back at its storage yard, started the car and a strange clicking/ tapping/rattling started, I checked under the bonnet but couldnt see anything amiss. no dash lights or error codes, got home and took the auxillary belt off, still the same, the engine runs smooth and the noise disappears when engine is reved only to come back on tick-over
the noise is definately from the crank pully side of the engine, are water pumps known to destroy themselves after a long run ??
my car is a v70 2.5D 2000 Model but the VW/ AUDI 5252T engine
Any ideas please, regards Steve

[howie 1]

sorry dupe post

[flatstick]

sorry , i'm not understanding your reply to my post, please clarify, thanks

[Kelvyn]

The water pump on my S80 seized solid (its a 2.5 too). I was in the outside lane on the M1 on my way to Derby when it went. The bearings had collapsed. Needless to say it stripped every tooth off the cam belt, which meant in turn that the valves and pistons collided.
Having taken the engine out and stripped it down I have to say I'm not overly impressed with some of the design features of this Audi based unit.
For example the cam pulley is not keyed to the camshaft, it simply relies on friction to hold it in place,as does the pulley at the other end of the camshaft that drives the fuel pump.
This means that any timing marks that have been put on these pulleys are of little or no use (you have to take the front camshaft pulley off to change the water pump because the pump is obscured by the cambelt rear cover and you can't remove the cover with the pulley in place).
I managed to get another engine from a breaker, not cheap either, unlike most of the others on this forum who seem to get replacement engines for next to nothing (I like to have a gripe).
I have replaced the timing belt and water pump on this replacement engine and am currently in the process of installing it.
I have to say I really wouldn't want to change the belt/pump on an engine in the car, access is abysmal and in theory at least you need some special tools (which I don't have so I made up some of my own). By contrast my son-in-law had the belt and pump on his V70 D5 replaced by a local independant for around £280 (not bad considering I paid about £130 for a belt kit and pump).
Sorry this has been such a long post but I can ramble on. By the way my engine had done 110k

[flatstick]

Thanks for that Kelvyn, obviously, through what you have said, its not the water pump. so I guess its the timing belt tentioner. I have started to strip the engine to replace the belt, tentioner and water pump, trouble is I cannot find any timing marks, not even on the injection pump. Ihave read your other posts on the forum, but could you enlighten me further as I will be re-placing the water pump as well while everything is sripped, thanks and regards, Flatstick (stephen) p.s does the auxillary belt pully unbolt from the crankshaft pully ?

[Kelvyn]

According to Volvo there is a timing mark on the Aux belt crankshaft pulley that lines up with a mark on the lower casing. I couldn't find a mark on my pulley although I did find the one on the lower casing. Its at about 35 minutes (on a clock face). These marks are supposed to give you TDC for No1 piston. I ended up taking No 1 injector out and used one of the wifes knitting needles to find TDC.
What had me slightly puzzled at that point is that you are supposed to install one of the special tools to lock the crank in place while you undo the centre bolt of the belt pulley. Because I dont have any of the specials needed I had to find another way of locking the crank and here I was fortunate that my engine was outside the car and came with no flywheel. I used a paper pattern to get the position of the flywheel fixings and transferred this to a piece of angle iron. A third hole in this lined up nicely with one of the gearbox fixing points and just needed a couple of washers to pack out to the same level as the end of the crank. Once bolted in place I was absolutely confident the crank wouldn't move. The centre bolt for the pulley is really tight. In the end I had to use a 3/4 inch drive impact air wrench to get it undone (when assembling I think its 150Nm plus 180 degrees with an angle gauge). Once you have the centre bolt out you can remove the four outer bolts then you can remove the pulley. This will give you access to remove the lower metal casings which need to be out of the way toget the belt out.
I presume that if you can borrow or hire the proper crank locking tool that you remove it after you have taken out the centre bolt and hope that the crank doesn't move when you undo the 4 smaller bolts (you would have to remove it because it fits into the middle of the pulley).
I have to say if you are doing yours with the engine in the car you're a braver man than me.

[flatstick]

yes.. the engines in the car, i keep having to take time out or loose my rag