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300/66 Series General Forum for the Volvo 340, 360 and 66 cars |
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How to get differential out?Views : 1340 Replies : 7Users Viewing This Thread : |
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#1 |
New Member
Last Online: Apr 28th, 2010 13:46
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Joensuu
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Hi! I'm planning to weld the diff. I lifted the rear and now I'm wondering how I can get the differential off, because the gearbox is in the same package? Car is 360 GLE with B200E engine and 5-speed transmission. Thanks!
Last edited by Hene; Apr 18th, 2010 at 10:43. |
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#2 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Jun 16th, 2024 19:56
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Holywood
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Its almost as simple as it looks, drain it (and the gearbox), unbolt it and lift it out.
You will have to swing the whole drive and engine down at the back hinging it on the engine mounts after removing the rear cross member bolts, and disconnecting the gear level gaiters. Make sure the bonnet is open as the engine will swing up at the front, and check the fan for fouling on the radiator while you are doing it, should be enough space though. It can be a bit hard to get off as the splined connection can be quite tight, 2 pairs of hands is best, but try shaking it up and down and using a trolley jack to support for the gearbox. Watchout for shims and stuff coming out from the bearings. |
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#3 |
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Last Online: Apr 28th, 2010 13:46
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Joensuu
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Ok, thanks! I was wondering is it possible to just drop the gearbox, then removing the differential from gearbox? Would be much easier because I can't get the cardan shafts hex bolt off, which is located in very narrow space above the gearshaft. I mean that is there own backwall in gearbox, that will hold the gears, or is the differential the backwall, so when I get it off, the gears would drop.
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#4 |
Trader Volvo in my veins
Last Online: Yesterday 22:27
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Anglesey
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As you only want to weld the diff just take teh cover off and weld it in situ. No need to remove it just make sure you clean it all out after. Mac on V3M sells a gasget set for the job.
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#5 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Jun 16th, 2024 19:56
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Holywood
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They are mostly separately housed units, just a few bit poke out into the diff casing.
I don't know what a cardan shaft is, but if you are removing the diff you need to remove the CV joints (I forgot to mention that) from the diff, they can be tight (use a good 6 sided socket). No need to remove the gearbox from the driveshaft. As Classicswede says, if you are welding the diff, just remove the rear plate, it gives access to the diff gears. Someone on www.volvo300mainia.com will help with gaskets or you can make your own / use instant gasket. |
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#6 |
New Member
Last Online: Apr 28th, 2010 13:46
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Joensuu
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With "cardan shaft" I meant the driveshaft. I have to take the diff out, because I don't have welding machine so I have to take it to my friends garage. I guess I take the whole gearbox off, since I managed to remove the last bolt from driveshaft.
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#7 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Jun 16th, 2024 19:56
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Holywood
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Still don't know why you don't just drive it around to the garage.
If you are removing the gearbox+Diff you will also need to undo the drive shaft clamps accessed via the rubber bungs in the torque tube. The gearlever linkage will also need to be removed, but you just have to slide back a springy sleeve to reveal the joint pins which should fall out. When you re-tighten the driveshaft clamp be sure to use a good torque wrench with the correct setting. You need to be a pretty big man to get the gearbox and diff out by yourself, it does not come out that easily, I've always had help. Alignment and stress are more important the brute force though, but you still need a bit of brute force too. |
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#8 |
New Member
Last Online: Apr 28th, 2010 13:46
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Joensuu
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Ok, thanks! I don't have driver's license and car is illegal, so I can drive it just on fields.
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