Steering: - S80 steering rack replacement is a DIY job (just)

Rover Saloon · May 9th, 2013, 20:42

Well; after much thought, delay and the need to save some cash I decided to have a go at replacing the rack on my 2000 S80. Today, I took the car in for it's MOT and it passed with no advisories. The indi who did the test had quoted £450 for a replacement rack; my total outlay was £130 plus a serious number of hours.
If anyone is contemplating this job, then it's reasonably straightforward.
First thing to do is to fling the Haynes manual in the bin.

Disconnect return pipe to PS hydraulic reservoir. Unclip the res. and drain.
Ask assistant to start the engine whilst you hold an empty bottle with return pipe in it. Pump will purge most of the oil out of the system but turn it off immediately it starts to spit.
Jack up and support front of car on stands placed well back so that the front subframe mounting plates are accessible.
Remove wheels, tie rods.
Remove the crossmember that supports exhaust pipe/cat. You will need to unclip various pipes attached to member at the same time.
Remove the four nuts and bolt securing the rack to the subframe.
Remove the bolt that secures the rack to the engine block.
Support the rear of the front subframe and remove mounting plates (two small and one big bolt)
Slacken the front mounting bolts off
Remove the four bolts securing the top engine mount to the cylinder head.
Lower the rear of the subframe until you feel that you have good enough access to the rack, inc. hydraulic connectors and the pinch bolt connecting the rack pinion to the steering column.
Jack up the engine to allow the rack to clear away from the engine block.

Disconnect the hydraulics
Remove pinch bolt on steering column joint and slide upwards to break the joint.
Carefully work the rack out through the driver's side (RHS)

Refitting is the reverse except you are advised to use new stretch bolts on the subframe mounts and rack
Getting the steering column back onto the pinion was impossible until I decided to break the column inside the car, remove the rubber gaiter in the bulkhead and take the entire piece out, open up the joint so it slipped over the pinion shaft easily and then reassembled. A bit of a fag but gives you the chance to oil and free up the outer UV which can get a lot of crud and salt on it so stiffen up.

This is a bit of a 'short' version. If anyone wants more details then I can try to help. Tools wise apart from the usual spanners and sockets, jacks, blocks, supports etc. you need nothing special.

NB - keep a record of the number of turns that it takes to remove each track rod so you can put them back on approximately in the same position.
Measure the protrusion of the inner tie rods off the old rack and set the new one to the same before fitting.
When disconnected, secure the steering wheel so that it cannot turn as this can damage the 'clock spring' spooler that senses the wheel position.

And that's about it!

Drogo · Sep 2nd, 2015, 13:57

Hi Rover Saloon,
Your post took some of the fear out of doing this job....although I am still a little unsure about my abilities after a five year struggle with cancer and all the debilitating BS that goes with it. I had noticed the dreaded oil spots on the driveway but as it wasn't too excessiveand my lovely 2002 S80 passed its last mot with no advisories...I would just top it up! After cleaning the driveway a couple of times with a little prodding from my OH I thought I would try a bit of Lucas oil leak stop...haha big mistake...initial success for about two weeks No oil leaks...then last Sunday oil pump started screaming whilst out and about. The increased viscosity must have blown the weak spot....so now I have to face the very expensive exercise of a new rack....you mentioned in your post that your expenditure was about £130.00....my big question is where did you source the rack.
Many Thanks Ed

Sn00py · Jul 8th, 2021, 08:22

Just had my rack go and it appears to have split the casing. Please tell us where you sourced your replacement as I am unable to find a replacement.
TIA

Dave

jnmonaghan · Jul 8th, 2021, 08:41

He was last visited the forum in Jan. 2017

May 9th, 2013, 20:42	#1
Rover Saloon Senior Member Last Online: Jan 16th, 2017 09:02 Join Date: May 2007 Location: Ipswich	S80 steering rack replacement is a DIY job (just) Well; after much thought, delay and the need to save some cash I decided to have a go at replacing the rack on my 2000 S80. Today, I took the car in for it's MOT and it passed with no advisories. The indi who did the test had quoted £450 for a replacement rack; my total outlay was £130 plus a serious number of hours. If anyone is contemplating this job, then it's reasonably straightforward. First thing to do is to fling the Haynes manual in the bin. Disconnect return pipe to PS hydraulic reservoir. Unclip the res. and drain. Ask assistant to start the engine whilst you hold an empty bottle with return pipe in it. Pump will purge most of the oil out of the system but turn it off immediately it starts to spit. Jack up and support front of car on stands placed well back so that the front subframe mounting plates are accessible. Remove wheels, tie rods. Remove the crossmember that supports exhaust pipe/cat. You will need to unclip various pipes attached to member at the same time. Remove the four nuts and bolt securing the rack to the subframe. Remove the bolt that secures the rack to the engine block. Support the rear of the front subframe and remove mounting plates (two small and one big bolt) Slacken the front mounting bolts off Remove the four bolts securing the top engine mount to the cylinder head. Lower the rear of the subframe until you feel that you have good enough access to the rack, inc. hydraulic connectors and the pinch bolt connecting the rack pinion to the steering column. Jack up the engine to allow the rack to clear away from the engine block. Disconnect the hydraulics Remove pinch bolt on steering column joint and slide upwards to break the joint. Carefully work the rack out through the driver's side (RHS) Refitting is the reverse except you are advised to use new stretch bolts on the subframe mounts and rack Getting the steering column back onto the pinion was impossible until I decided to break the column inside the car, remove the rubber gaiter in the bulkhead and take the entire piece out, open up the joint so it slipped over the pinion shaft easily and then reassembled. A bit of a fag but gives you the chance to oil and free up the outer UV which can get a lot of crud and salt on it so stiffen up. This is a bit of a 'short' version. If anyone wants more details then I can try to help. Tools wise apart from the usual spanners and sockets, jacks, blocks, supports etc. you need nothing special. NB - keep a record of the number of turns that it takes to remove each track rod so you can put them back on approximately in the same position. Measure the protrusion of the inner tie rods off the old rack and set the new one to the same before fitting. When disconnected, secure the steering wheel so that it cannot turn as this can damage the 'clock spring' spooler that senses the wheel position. And that's about it! Last edited by Rover Saloon; May 9th, 2013 at 20:44.

Jul 8th, 2021, 08:22	#3
Sn00py Junior Member Last Online: Jul 5th, 2023 10:12 Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Chester	Just had my rack go and it appears to have split the casing. Please tell us where you sourced your replacement as I am unable to find a replacement. TIA Dave __________________ http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/

Jul 8th, 2021, 08:41	#4
jnmonaghan Senior Member Last Online: Yesterday 17:57 Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Belfast	He was last visited the forum in Jan. 2017 __________________ 2003 V70 D5- 145000 miles- Bi Xenon Factory 7 seater

Sep 2nd, 2015, 13:57	#2
Drogo Droog Last Online: Feb 1st, 2016 16:12 Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: East Kilbride	Hi Rover Saloon, Your post took some of the fear out of doing this job....although I am still a little unsure about my abilities after a five year struggle with cancer and all the debilitating BS that goes with it. I had noticed the dreaded oil spots on the driveway but as it wasn't too excessiveand my lovely 2002 S80 passed its last mot with no advisories...I would just top it up! After cleaning the driveway a couple of times with a little prodding from my OH I thought I would try a bit of Lucas oil leak stop...haha big mistake...initial success for about two weeks No oil leaks...then last Sunday oil pump started screaming whilst out and about. The increased viscosity must have blown the weak spot....so now I have to face the very expensive exercise of a new rack....you mentioned in your post that your expenditure was about £130.00....my big question is where did you source the rack. Many Thanks Ed

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