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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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Volvo 940 not chargingViews : 1123 Replies : 18Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Mar 10th, 2020, 12:39 | #11 |
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Buying alternator overhaul kits is not a regular thing here. You should be able to change the regulator and / or brushes, but bearings and other problems can be more tricky.
Usually an auto electrical refurbisher/repairer can do this fairly cheaply if you bring your part to them. |
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Mar 10th, 2020, 12:58 | #12 | |
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Like Tony says, it's not the usual things to buy alternator rebuild kits here. Several reasons, you need specialist tools/kit for dismantling/rebuilding and also testing - NO YOU CAN NOT DO IT ALL WITH A MULTIMETER! Also the cost of the rebuild kits works out nearly as expensive as a reconditionied unit which comes with a guarantee. Which would you choose - a rebuild kit to do it yourself and have no guarantee or pay a little more and get one already done with a warranty? Also to find a rebuild kit, you'll need the Bosch part number, usually starts with " 0 120" and is 10 digits in total. The Volvo part number isn't a great deal of use sadly, Volvo (in common with many other manufacturers) applied their own part numbers to units that met the specification they wanted. With some car manufacturers, the same part number was used regardless of the original manufacturers! For example, a Ford alternator might have a particular part number but could have been made by Motorola, AC Delco, Lucas, Bosch, Marelli, Magnetti-Marelli or FoMoCo. The Ford example is an extreme but others used 2 or 3 different manufacturers but with the same part number for the customer.
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Mar 10th, 2020, 13:06 | #13 |
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This comment a bit late in the day, but is there any similarity with the fault that you can get with 240's where the connection wires go down under the engine below the front pulley? Loom can get oily, damaged, and touch things under there. Perhaps that issue was fixed with the 940.
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Mar 10th, 2020, 13:27 | #14 | |
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Yes it has the grounding strap onto a bolt, i should have really connected it to this but it was windy and started raining and generally I lost interest haha So if you had a working alternator, and a reconditioned unit with a guarantee, and a non-working alternator, then why not crack the broken one open and give it a good ol' whirl? Learn by doing! No idea about the 240 sorry. |
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Mar 10th, 2020, 13:44 | #15 |
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If you have an electronics lab at your disposal, first thing to point out is that although you can get a basic test on the rectifier with a multimeter, you need to load them up to test them. A 21W bulb is usually sufficient and then reverse the polarity to get the go/no-go operation of all 6 rectifier diodes. Also check the diode "trio"that feeds from the outputs of the stator to the voltage regulator. For the voltage reg, you will need a dedicated voltage regulator tester - not cheap and unless your electronics lab is an autoelectronics lab, highly unlikely you'll have one floating around!
You'll also need a 100+W soldering iron to desolder the rectifier from the stator windings and also the slip rings from the rotor windings. You also need to measure the distance from the nearest slip ring conductor to the back of the rotor as they vary and when the new one is fitted, you'll need epoxy resin adhesive to secure it in place. There are also 2 different diameters of slip ring applicable to Bosch alternators of this age, 28mm and 32 mm, the voltage regulator is different on both as well not ot mention slight other differences but generally there are two main voltage regs fitted to the Bosch alternators from this time. The brushes come with the voltage reg, it's not worth trying to renew just brushes as the regs tend to fail soon after the brushes have worn out. Then you'll need bearing pullers and a press of some description to remove and refit the bearings and slip rings. Also take photos as you strip it down, there are some spacers and washers, particularly on the Drive End that need to be kept in order for the pulley to run in the right place. From memory, you need an 8mm Allen key and 22mm cranked ring spanner to unbolt the pulley. That should get you started, i could never remember the bearing numbers on the Boschbut 6302ZZ rings a bell somehow.
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Mar 12th, 2020, 11:24 | #16 | |
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(In contrast, to change the regulator on my 1998 V90 is a morning - at least - of intensive knuckle skinning work.) |
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Mar 12th, 2020, 12:35 | #17 | |
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Anyway, the OP tried it, got inconclusive results and simply changed the alternator and now has a working warning light and alternator. As such, we may never know the exact cause. However he would have had a working rev counter as his is a petrol model and takes the signal for the tacho from the correct place, i.e. the -ve terminal of the coil, not a tapping on one of the alternator stator windings, usually marked "W" on the back of the alternator as the diseasels need because there is no spark ignition.
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Mar 15th, 2020, 22:20 | #18 |
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Voltage regulator ??
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Mar 15th, 2020, 23:06 | #19 |
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Have a look at my post above yours Shaun and the one above that!
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