Engine: 850 T5/R Replacement radiator

[02GF74]

My radiator (Volvo 850 T5 manual) has developed a split between the water inlet and oil cooler inlet

The initial fix of silicon sealant stuff with an aluminium plate lasted about 3 months but latest fix using JB weld failed immediately... I knew it was temporary fix but it bought me enough time to reach the dry and sunny days where I can work on the car.

So I am looking at replacing the radiator - seems relatively easily but due to a full engine bay, I bet it isn't.

Regarding a replacement radiator, I what brands should I avoid - below are links, brands and prices - NRF good?

https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/nrf/2390512 £63.83 NRF
https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/aks-dasis/1725527 £ 68.83 aks dasis
https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/prasco/7469325 £ 71.38 prasco
https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/van-wezel/7119066 £ 97.73 van wezel
https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/frigair/2754826 £ 101.98 firgair
https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/hella/947665 £ 125.78 hella


Any tips and advice appreciated

One difference would be the oil cooler fittins - original ones are brass (won't rust) but I suspect some may be steel - not as good (= rust).
I'm assuming the radiator does not come with oil cooler clips and read that it is recommended to replace the O-rings so ....

1. Can the oil cooler clips be safely re-used, with a zip tie?
2. What size are the O-rings on the oil cooler pipes?

[cyclogenesis]

Its not that difficult a job. I followed one of the guides on here. I bought a radiator from partsforvolvos and the ancilliaries from a main stealer. I have often found it best to get seals o rings and bolts from them as there is no issue about corect specs etc. Spend the money and get new clips.

[DunkinBiskits]

best way to avoid these radiators is to run an ME7 sump with its sump situated oil cooler. bit of faffing involved but those stupid clips on the pre 98 stuff are damn irritating and always fail when you least need it.

[rogerb]

As above. I have all the stuff to do a me7 sump conversation, when I get round to doing some major engine work. In the meantime I need to finish putting the rest of my car together for its mot. I did get new clips and seals for the radiator, as I had removed it for some other work.
They are available from Volvo still but are not cheep. My ones were very rusty.
Also it is a good move to put a jubilee clip round them for extra reassurance.

Roger.

[02GF74]

a brief update.

I selected the NRF after reading up about the company. Seems ok but one negative is that the drain is a plastic screw instead of a stopcock, so if you are considering buying one, make sure it has a stopcock (just checked the radiators I listed and they all seem to be like that; you'd think they would make them to fit the original stopcock at least) - will be less messy when having to drain it.

Replacement is straightforward, the car does not need to be jacked up which was my main concern. Only problem encountered was undoing the two main bolts that hold the radiator to the body. The thread past the boss was corroded so the bosses sheared of - replaced by M8 bolts but it took one hell of a time grinding off the bolts heads. I would suggest cleaning up the threads using a tap or a nut to prevent this.

Also take note of how of the orientation of the two plates that hold the intercooler in place. The I/c has tabs that fit into slots and the plates are oriented to hold the I/c/ as close as possible to the radiator, a bit fiddly to put back.

Ideally use new clips, seals and O-rings - but the clips (£ 10 each) can be re-used but fit cable ties to ensure they are secured.

Volvo charged me £ 7.20 for the O-rings - these are 15 mm diameter and about 1 mm thick, I'll try to remember to update with exact dimensions will save someone £ 7.

[Luxobarge]

Regarding the drain screw or stopcock, in my opinion whether it's fitted with either of these there's a significant risk of it breaking/snapping if you use it, so I (and many others on here) always drain the rad by simply loosening the bottom hose clip and popping the hose off. I doubt it takes any more time, does the same job and leaves me with the confidence that I'm not going to break something that means I'll have to replace the whole rad.

Cheers

[Stu B]

I've got the part numbers and current prices for the oil cooler o-rings, seals and clips if anyone needs them? I picked mine up earlier this week, have to say, seemed very expensive for some very small parts so hopefully worth it to cure a small leak I have on the connections.

[DaveNP]

The drain plug/screw in the bottom of the rad uses a rubber O ring near the tip to seal it, it does not need to be done up tight like one might do with something with a sealing washer under the head like the oil sump plug. But as Luxobarge says, leave the silly little plastic thing alone and just pop the bottom hose off.

[02GF74]

Originally Posted by Stu B

I've got the part numbers and current prices for the oil cooler o-rings, seals and clips if anyone needs them? I picked mine up earlier this week, have to say, seemed very expensive for some very small parts .

Expensive is an understatement but I guess cheap compared to a replacement engine should oil escape and also not having to worry if there are problems later on.

[Bigfella666]

O2

Good to read I am not the only one who learnt the hard way re the lower rad bolts - my lad broke one of the retaining fins off the rad and that which happened to you happened to me - rusted nut snapped off the weld. As you say it is a pig of a job to cut the bolt - I went through 3 Feinmaster metal blades and even then had to finish with a hacksaw !

Hence my advice to Liammedller recently - spray from above and below with penetrating oil for at least a week then you stand a slim chance.

If I were in your position though and was replacing the rad the 4 inch angle grinder would be making a trip out of the loft !