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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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Heater ControlsViews : 2906 Replies : 18Users Viewing This Thread : |
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#11 |
foot in mouth specialist
Last Online: Sep 6th, 2016 22:55
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Dublin, Ireland
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what a bunch of anoraks we are...
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#12 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Jun 6th, 2024 13:55
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Co. Cork, Ireland.
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__________________
1970 Volvo Amazon 131 with a B20A and an M40. |
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#13 |
New Member
Last Online: Jun 10th, 2020 16:35
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Siasconset
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I just rebuilt my 122 heater, valve, case, cables, etc. But now, strangely, I can't get the heater control module back into its slot; doesn't seem to be enough room. It came out so easily I never gave it a thought. What's the secret? Will it help if I disconnect the cables at the control end?
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#14 |
VOC Member
Last Online: Yesterday 13:16
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Chatham
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Are you talking about how the plate fits into the back of the dash? 2 screws at the bottom into the lip of the dash and one at the top? From memory......
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#15 |
Master Member
Last Online: Mar 14th, 2024 17:23
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Milton Keynes
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From the description I sounds as if the heater controls are the same for the 1800S.
Last weekend was warm and travelling 50 miles with the heater on was not the best. I thought having moved the HEAT switch to the off position that the cabling was jammed or the thermo control was not working. However on investigation the next morning I found I had not pushed the control lever hard enough to the off position, and all was well for a pleasant second day in my 1964 built car. Apart from new hoses my system appears original. |
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#16 | |
Master Member
Last Online: Jun 15th, 2024 21:52
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Nottingham
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You can either: Fit with no cables attached - this makes it a LOT easier to locate (then you have the fun task for hooking up the 3 relevant cables... not very easy if you have big hands) Or, Fit the unit with cables attached and be prepared for a lot of frustration and swearing. I did it this way, and it's 95% good. Slight gap on one side so I'll have another go at some point. You may find it easier to remove the drivers or passenger seat as this gives you a bit more room to stick your head under the dash to see what's going on... Good luck. Oh, and my unit had 2 screws in the bottom, none it the top or anywhere else (car is a 1970 133). |
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#17 |
VOC Member
Last Online: Yesterday 13:16
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Chatham
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Oh, and my unit had 2 screws in the bottom, none it the top or anywhere else (car is a 1970 133).
Must have a fixing of some sort at the top or the control panel will flex when you move the usually the rather stiff control levers. Top screw through the dash under the recessed lip. Although Volvo changed the black knobs for the levers for safety reasons I don't think they changed much else but maybe wrong about that. The B18 and B20 cars part number for the control is different. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Derek UK For This Useful Post: |
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#18 | |
Master Member
Last Online: Jun 15th, 2024 21:52
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Nottingham
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Funnily enough, I did consider drilling one to hold the unit more securely but never got round to it. I assumed that the 2 bottoms screws, plus the tension of the cables themselves would be enough to hold the unit in place. (I'll have another look at the dash when I get home in case I'm wrong... god knows, it's happened before!) My cars is very late Amazon and does appear to have a few 'quirks' that others don't have though... |
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#19 |
Master Member
Last Online: Jun 15th, 2024 21:52
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Nottingham
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Well, I'll be a Monkey's uncle... there was a hole for the top mounting screw.
Hiding behind a layer of paint with a piece of tape behind it ('inside' the dash). |
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