2005- V70 D5 185bhp valve rockers

[colinbos]

Originally Posted by skyship007

Good idea. Hot rattles are often caused by injector issues or poor oil flow around the top end due to top end varnish or sludge in the oil pump feed causing a lower oil pressure than normal. The same rattle can also be caused by the DPF thinning the oil with diesel if it's not changed often enough, which is more often than Volvo say.

I would use a major brand oil flush additive designed for use at idle just before an oil and filter change to clean the top end varnish. Switching to a high detergent oil like M1 0w40 will shift sludge, BUT it will not shift varnish unless you do at least half a dozen short 3000 mile oil changes.

If the cams are worn, then once you have confirmed the oil flow is good by using a flush and moved up an SAE group, then it often helps to use a modern ceramic particle additive like LM Ceratec to coat the exposed metal parts with hBN (Hexagonal form of Boron Nitride). Ceratec also includes some extra Mo (Moly), a friction reducer, although that part of the suspension is not needed with a good major brand full synthetic like Mobil 0w40 or Ultra 0 or 5w40, as they already contain Mo.
If the thermostat or water pump are defective it can also cause a rattle by overheating the top end, as can a bad ECU Map change or tuning box.

With an older diesel many sludge/varnish cases are cause by tiny holes or cracks in the head gasket. The anti freeze reacts with the detergents and stops them working. That effect results in the Ca, Mg or Na detergents failing to keep the blowby products in suspension, which will result in sludge and varnish deposits (The sludge forms first). The varnish is in effect a side effect of the sludge that can easily damage the cams, followers, rings and valve guide oil seals.
It's rare to get bottom engine main bearing damage unless the oil pump intake screen blocks and that tends to result in a flickering low oil pressure warning light at idle just after a good run. The book says that is OK in some cases, BUT that is written for warranty avoidance reasons. Low oil pressure sensors are very reliable and if you drain the oil when the oil pump is blocked by sludge, you might need a screwdriver to get the lumps flowing out of the drain plug!

If you do get sludged out, dump the oil & filter and then rinse through with diesel a few times (Put the plug in before adding a few gallons). Only rinse the block when it's cold as there is a slight explosion risk for trapped vapour.

PS: Liqui Moly do make a specific additive for top end rattles. It's not as effective as using better oil, flushing and Ceratec, BUT it might be worth a try. I forget what they call it, but it contains detergents and Moly in a very thick base oil. One can will result in a move up one SAE grade (30 to 40 etc). It's worth avoiding in winter, as it thickens both the warm and cold SAE ratings, so it would turn an 0w30 into a 10w40.

A 10w oil is tough on a battery in winter, although it still has a por point of around minus 25c, so is OK down to minus 15c in cold start wear terms. Supermarker diesel gells at minus 15c, BUT the good stuff (BP or Shell) is good down to minus 23 to 25c.

I always listen to what you have to offer Skyship, and have flushed (LM oil flush) and used Shell Helix Ultra A5 B5 5-40 approx 4000 miles ago. Im about to do another flush and oil change and adding LM Ceratec too, first the first time.

I get no issues with fuel contamination (Im lucky to live near a by-pass and use it weekly for a spirited drive) and have no DPF issues.

If the flush and Ceratec doesn't help in a few 000 miles, Im keen to get the top end done, as Ive already planned belts, rollers and pulleys, I may as well spend a few extra getting the top done also.

Ill upload the video later.

[colinbos]

Originally Posted by sv70

Colinbos, i am sure you will get enough positive feedback to confirm your problem, from guys who have suffered this problem,mine is the same from cold no noise whatsoever when cold,only when it reaches normal operating temp,then you hear it,like someone banging 2 balloons together constantly.

Thats very 'descriptive' and sounds like mine.

Ill upload the video later.

[peteroliver]

Having just bought a 2006 V70 D5 which has covered 70,000 miles, I am now confused what oil would be best. When warm my engine just sounds like a diesel and concerned if I can help avoid this problem.

[5cilinder]

Originally Posted by peteroliver

Having just bought a 2006 V70 D5 which has covered 70,000 miles, I am now confused what oil would be best. When warm my engine just sounds like a diesel and concerned if I can help avoid this problem.

lol
Your engine supposed to sound like a diesel ;-)

[RoyMacDonald]

Originally Posted by skyship007

There is almost no real difference between Acea A5/B5 and A3/B4. There sure is between Acea C ratings and the latter specs!

They have different additive packages. One is designed to maximise protection to the head and one the DPF.

Roy

[colinbos]

400 miles into an LM Oil flush, new Mann filter 5/30 A5B5 oil and a can of Ceratec, and the 'thumb thump' at idle, is without doubt quieter.

I know its not a cure, but a positive step forward until I decide to get the lifters-followers done.

[luggsey]

Originally Posted by colinbos

400 miles into an LM Oil flush, new Mann filter 5/30 A5B5 oil and a can of Ceratec, and the 'thumb thump' at idle, is without doubt quieter.

I know its not a cure, but a positive step forward until I decide to get the lifters-followers done.

That's exactly my experience as well, I didn't use createc though.
Mine is only making the tug boat noise at very low revs, on the move or higher revs and its fine so im 99% sure it's just lazy lifters. I'll flush it again next oil change and see if it further improves.

[colinbos]

The Shell Helix Ultra Professional - AF, is cheap enough to do an oil change sooner than usual in my opinion. With weekend deals at Euro Car Parts its less than £30 including a filter.

Ill keep this lot in for about 6k, then do another full flush and add more Ceratec, So long as I keep hearing it getting quieter.

[luggsey]

Originally Posted by colinbos

The Shell Helix Ultra Professional - AF, is cheap enough to do an oil change sooner than usual in my opinion. With weekend deals at Euro Car Parts its less than £30 including a filter.

Ill keep this lot in for about 6k, then do another full flush and add more Ceratec, So long as I keep hearing it getting quieter.

My thoughts exactly, I oil change my cars every year in the summer as I have no garage, I was really pleased how well lm flush worked so I'll do it again. The engine oil stays cleaner for longer so I know it works.
One thing I do is change the filter again a couple of weeks after the initial flush.
My Honda had a blocked oil filter at 210k so after flushing it I took that precaution just in case....

[Honestjon]

I've just rebuilt my 185 d5 and only had to replace 5 lifters they wear at the top to create a small nipple off sorts then just fall out off the follower when you remove them best to check them all. I have 20 followers and around 10 lifters u can have them if needed for the price of postage they are from a second engine I've used for parts eg that one bolt uve lost and cannot findp. U can tell the bad ones straight off when removed.