240 General: Rear Brake Problem.

[Mike_Brace]

It all depends on how the car has been used and maintained. I am not in the least bit surprised that Clifford's have done so well. I have though seen many discs that are very thin, and/or scored, and/or badly pitted. If it is none of these no need to change. Any of the above and it will mean the brakes will not be working as efficiently although they may still meet MOT requirements (which aren't particularly high). Remember though good brakes are very important! Take care.

Mike

[GL/GLT JIM]

Wish I had those Pictures the first time I did brakes. I don't know if anyone would be interested, but I started applying a little trick learned while working aircraft, and it does help the job go a bit smoother. I always keep the old pins to use on the next brake job. When I remove the old corroded pins, I chuck them up in a drill and use a very mild grit sandpaper to knock the surface rust off. Then, while still chucked in the drill, I use a file to form a mild taper on the end of the pin. I then insert both upper and lower pins from the "backside" and slide them thru the pads to where they are just underflush with the outside hole on the caliper. I always clean the corrosion from the pin bores with wire wool before inserting pins. Pushing them through from the backside has the effect of aligning the pads correctly, and if they will not go in easy, there is still too much corrosion in the pad path that needs to be cleaned away. I then chuck up each of the new pins and put a mild taper on them. I gently tap out the old pins with the new ones. The conical taper of the pin helps draw the pin and pad hole together without having to beat hell out of them. Believe it or not, but if you have done a really good job of cleaning away the corrosion, you can almost push them through from the outside with your fingers.

[Mike_Brace]

Pins are best but in from the inside facing out. They are then easier to get at to tap out if they start to corrode.

Mike