Cambelt - Problems with tensioner

[economicpygmy]

I was going to leave it but noticed the belt had some cracks in the surface....

I'm changing the cambelt and can't seem to align the tensioner in the center of the temperature window. Even if I do manage to get it in the center, when cranking it over by hand it moves to the right. I should have left it at that because I now can't repeat it. When tightening the bolt it just moves to the right. Even when I started off to the left, cranking it moved it further to the left. I just cant win. I'm led to believe this is critical, more so as its cold in the garage but if I'm honest after 20x I've had enough.

This job has been fighting me at every step. First I discovered the T60 is too fat so while I could remove the belt because I had a new one. Now I can't seem to get hold of a T60 that fits. Then the cambelt was simply too tight until gentle warming it up.

People do this in an hour...

[cheshired5]

A tiny bit of grease between the tensioner bolt head and tensioner can help to reduce friction.
What also helps is counterholding the 6mm allen in position whilst you tighten the tensioner bolt.

A bit late for you now but the belt shouldn't need warming up as it slips on easily if you move the spring loaded tensioner indicator bar whilst installing.

[oragex]

The trick is to tighten the center bolt a bit 3-4 ft-lbs, before adjusting the tensioner with the allen key. Basically, when you adjust with the key, you must feel some resistance. And as cheshired5 says, once adjusted keep the allen key by hand from moving whilst giving the final torque to the tensioner bolt. Speaking of this center bolt, the torque is not that much, I believe 15 ft-lbs - better use a torque wrench to get an idea. Too tight and the tensioner spring won't work properly.

With the engine cold (15C) and running, the needle should be stable and in the middle. It's good to check it regularly for a few days.

[economicpygmy]

I was moving the tensioner with an Allen key when struggling to put the belt on, it simply would not go on. Even after warming up I wouldn't describe it as easy. I thought it was the wrong belt but it seems the same length as the old one.

Ive tried two methods with the tensioner: start un-tensioned at around 10 oclock then move it to the desired set point and tighten. Ive also tried moving it past the window and then allowing it to move back in the window. Each time when I tighten with a torque wrench to 27NM it moves even though Im counter-holding the Allen key in the same position.

Id love to know what Im doing wrong...

Edited to add: these are all volvo OE parts from volvotradeparts on ebay.

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by economicpygmy

I was moving the tensioner with an Allen key when struggling to put the belt on, it simply would not go on.

That's not what I said though.

You move the spring loaded bar.

[economicpygmy]

Sorry Im confused, which bar?

I thought the spring loaded bar (i.e. needle at the back) moved with the counter-clockwise movement of the Allen key mechanism. i.e. theres a spring coiled up in the tensioner and moving the allen key preloads the spring with the needle at the back indicating the preload between the two temperature indicators (folder steel against the block).

[oragex]

I'm having a hard time watching the picture, but is the belt sitting correctly centered on the tensioner pulley or is seems to run a bit offset?

[economicpygmy]

It is inside the window, just. But to the right. As its cold, I want it to the left.
When I cranked the engine by hand it moved further to the right on most attempts. Half the problem with these situations is I dont know whats acceptable...

Sorry its been a long day... the belt is a little to the outside.

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by economicpygmy

Sorry Im confused, which bar?

I thought the spring loaded bar (i.e. needle at the back) moved with the counter-clockwise movement of the Allen key mechanism

It does but it can also be moved manually to get the belt on.

It's clearly shown in my D5 Cambelt Change video.

[economicpygmy]

Ended up just moving it via the bolt 2mm and it was perfect; don't remember having this problem with the Zetec I changed years ago but the tension is perfect when running. The new aux belt tensioner noises have gone too.