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V40 T4 Ph1 Exhaust, Which part should i keep/sell.

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Old Apr 29th, 2016, 14:04   #1
Neil H
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Default V40 T4 Ph1 Exhaust, Which part should i keep/sell.

Hi folks,
My Ph1 T4 came with a Custom made stainless back box (powerflow i believe) welded on to the standard cat back centre section.

The mid way silencer on the centre section has now started blowing at the seam and the whole are is beginning to crumble with corrosion and rust.
This obviously wont pass the MOT which is due and so its time to do a proper fix.

I searched around and couldn't find a stainless mid section on its own, i went to a powerflow dealer who quoted me 400 quid for the cat to backbox section i need.
A cheap pattern part mild steel section looks to be around 100 quid and would need replacing in a few years again.

The other alternative was to buy a complete Jetex system for just over 300 quid and end ip with a choice of the Jetex back box or the old powerflow one which is in perfect condition (i think i can cut it off at the weld and use the remaining flanged area to slip over the new one and clamp without a problem by cutting a short slit down it to pinch it up with a U clamp the same way the jetex fits.

Everything looks the same between the two back boxes (the bend and diameter etc so it should be fine for which ever i choose but i'll know for sure once i get started tomorrow.

So i'm going to end up with a spare back box after all of this and the question is: Do I just use the new Jetex box and try to sell the used but perfectly good condition powerflow box, or Sell the Jetex one as new unused and fit the Powerflow box onto the new mid section?

I'd like to get as much money as possible to try and recoup the cost obviously.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

Neil
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Old Apr 30th, 2016, 19:55   #2
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well, so it turns out the joins are not in exactly the same place on these two rear boxes so to save myself any faffing around im installing the full Jetex system.
So I'll have the Powerflow stainless steel rear box up for sale in the "sales" section shortly if anyone is interested.
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Old Apr 30th, 2016, 21:08   #3
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Got any pics mate I'm interested
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Old Apr 30th, 2016, 23:10   #4
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Originally Posted by kieran40 View Post
Got any pics mate I'm interested
Sure, Here's some i took today to compare them, Black One is My new Jetex, Silver is the Powerflow.
I can clean up the tail pipes a bit and take another picture tomorrow.

Side By Side,


Tailpipes are slightly squared on the Powerflow


Bends Compared



Cut After the Weld to leave plenty of meat to work with
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Old May 1st, 2016, 00:49   #5
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[QUOTE=Neil H;2103476]
Sure, Here's some i took today to compare them, Black One is My new Jetex, Silver is the Powerflow.
I can clean up the tail pipes a bit and take another picture tomorrow.


Errr, I don't own a modded T4, just the real McCoy phase 2 V40 classic, BUT if I did, I would sell the entire exhale system. List it here as one unit for the T4 addicts and again in Fleabay.co.uk and .de in parts. The pre CAT and CAT are both worth some real money, although the new looking mid and rear sound boxers are also going to fetch top dollar or dosh.

Then I would fit something that will just pass the MOT, not get the Rozzers on your tail (Like a gutted CAT) AND does not allow the insurance folks any wiggle room. So Gen Volvo used only, or if you have a few beans to spare, a complete mild steel system from a big Volvo parts dealer, like Skandix or even Rufe in Swansea (Phone job).

If you just track the car, then sell the lot and fit a tuned straight pipe with new fittings.
Note: If you just won on the Ponies, then make sure any SS system is not made from far Eastern stainless. It might look nice and shiny, BUT cheap SS suffers from fatigue cracks very quickly (Around the edges of bodged welds in particular) and it's not cool to have a classic race car drop bits on the race track, unless it's a clowns only race.

Some types of cheap SS (Not TUV approved 306) also suffer from internal crevice corrosion. That is only an issue if you use such junk for the CAT, as the other boxes do not have the same type of O2 restricted joins and seams.
It will corrode within a few years and once the ceramic core comes loose, or it gets holed, that's an MOT failure point.

If you want to go down the painted mild route, then just buy good used mild boxes AND a few cans of 2 component tinted marine grade epoxy. Awlgrip is the best one, BUT don't paint the down pipes, pre-cat or CAT, as they need a heat resistant paint. Another option is to make yourself a Zinc plating bath tub rig. Bath tub, H2SO4, scrap Zn, Battery rig (2 old 12v car jobs and a 10A Halfrauds charger) and wiring. Chrome plating is a no go, as it's too difficult to get the chemicals in the EU.
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Old May 1st, 2016, 05:44   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyship007 View Post
Another option is to make yourself a Zinc plating bath tub rig. Bath tub, H2SO4, scrap Zn, Battery rig (2 old 12v car jobs and a 10A Halfrauds charger) and wiring. Chrome plating is a no go, as it's too difficult to get the chemicals in the EU.
But it's no hassle to buy, use and dispose of enough sulfuric acid (H2SO4) to fill a bathtub?
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Old May 1st, 2016, 06:22   #7
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Shame it's different to the diesel system I would have bought it off you otherwise. , what a pain

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Old May 1st, 2016, 08:33   #8
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No problem !
I'll put it in the FS section and ebay soon enough.
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