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Any ideas where my main beam has disappeared to?

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Old Sep 16th, 2015, 21:55   #21
bournricha
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Default switches etc

If it turns out you need a switch use Parts Gateway online .You will get a guaranteed second hand switch for peanuts .Use this channel all the time now .
can't remember when i last bought a new part .Will probably cost about a tenner .Worth it to suck it and see if you are really stumped .Following this with interest .
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Old Sep 17th, 2015, 13:06   #22
SkintKnuckles
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Hi Bournricha,

cool - thanks for the heads up on this. I will definitely check this option out.

I'm scheduled to take these switches out on Sunday and, if needed, will replace the culprit(s). If lady luck is with me on Sunday, and a clean up effects a solution, I'll proceed to doing the front drop links that I've had sitting in the cupboard (for too long). Conversely, if the clean up fails, I'll take that as an ill omen and leave the drop links in the cupboard for another month

cheers
Neil
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Old Sep 19th, 2015, 10:45   #23
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Hi all,

so found some spare time to take these switches out. The main rotating headlight switch looked absolutely fine, with no corrosion. However, did a sand and contact clean anyway, but this has no impact. Then I took the indicator stalk off. This looked worn internally, and there was some oxidation of the contacts. Yet again, I did a surface sand and contact clean , but no effect again.

The bad news is that something is at fault, but I'm none the wiser as to the culprit. The good news is that its a piece of cake to replace the above two components so I'll try and source second hand replacements and see if this helps.

Currently, my money is on the indicator stalk as the internal mechanism looks dodgy and, if nothing else, weakly constructed. Thus, it would not surprise me at all if its this part has failed as there are so many key pieces in the switch that are tiny, plastic and they articulate off of lugs etc - so a lot to fail.

cheers
Neil
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Old Sep 19th, 2015, 11:16   #24
KBB
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Have you tested the relay ground terminal to confirm if the CEM is providing a control signal to operate the relay. If the is no ground control then that would suggest no LIN Bus signal from SWM providing LIN Bus circuit is good from SWM to CEM.
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Old Sep 21st, 2015, 19:46   #25
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Hi KBB,

thanks for the tip and advice. Apologies for the delayed reply - not enough hours in the day etc!

I've just two questions:
(i) if I do the test you recommend, I assume that I'm putting the rotating headlight switch (to right of steering wheel) to fully on, and then getting a second person to try engaging the main beam via the indicator stalk, and then checking for a voltage at the relay you mention
(ii) if we assume, for the sake of argument that the indicator stalk has failed in some way, then will the above work, or have I misunderstood the test.

I'm not nit picking here, I just want to make sure that I'm actually doing the right thing, so that I can judge the outcome appropriately.

This test seems highly sensible and - its free! If this doesn't nail things down, I've had some good quotes for second-hand parts for what are currently the smoking guns (switches), so these aren't a disastrous outlay if I cannot positively identify the culprit.

Thanks!

cheers
Neil
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Old Sep 25th, 2015, 09:16   #26
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Hi all,

I used the Parts Gateway, as recommended above by Bournricha (thanks mate!), and got a new indicator stalk and main headlight switch for £30, with £3 for P & P. The parts were in very good condition and arrived within 48 hours of being ordered. These parts fixed the problem, with the indicator being the culprit, as predicted.

Its worth giving Yorkshire Volvo Spares a thumbs up here, as they undercut pretty much every other Parts Gateway affiliated breaker by a good margin. One breaker even managed to quote me more than the price of a brand new indicator stalk from Mr volvo - well, they had to try!

Good to have a simple fix for once - now I'm obliged to do the drop links I've been avoiding for some time......

cheers
Neil
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Old Sep 25th, 2015, 09:22   #27
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You could remove the relay and bridge out the two pins in the bed 30-87 they will be the two larger pins. If high beam comes on it proves the circuit is capable of working if control is present. Next test with a simple test light look at the relay plate in the box the location of the two thinner pins will be the 85 power side to replay coil and the other 87 ground control through the CEM. With a simple automotive pen type test light connect one end to ground and then check for power to the pin 85 it should be live with key and light switch on. To test the CEM control connect the ligt to battery + and then touch the relay bed pin 87 operate the high beam if the CEM is receiving a LIN Bus command it will internally switch a ground path for the relay coil and the test lamp will light up.
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Old Sep 29th, 2015, 21:10   #28
razzyboi
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Smile main beam stopped working on my v40 t4 estate

sorry posted in wrong thread

Last edited by razzyboi; Sep 29th, 2015 at 21:42. Reason: posted in wrong thread sorry
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Old Sep 29th, 2015, 21:15   #29
4candles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razzyboi View Post
hi guys can anyone help me I have a 2001 v40 t4 estate bought it 2 weeks ago main beam was working but has now stopped working you can hear it click but it doesn't flash and blue light doesn't come on.do the v40's suffer with dodgy stalks or is it a relay/fuse or something else.also the twin headlight has been bypassed to a basic flick on/off switch does the proper headlight switch play up aswell

many thanks in advance
Wrong section bud, this is Phase 2 V70/XC70/S60/80 territory.
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