Volvo Boost gauge/dial not working

st5ve · Jan 25th, 2007, 13:40

Boost gauge not working at all 850 T5 gle phase 1, it sits at the 12 o’clock position all the time. Performance is still spot on was wondering if the hose has split or come off that leads to the gauge. Is this a dashboard out job or can it be done it situ without loosing to much skin off knuckles etc.

dooby · Jan 25th, 2007, 13:55

On my 850 I think the pipe starts at the vacuum tree under the throttle cover in the engine, so worth starting there. Mine is a hard white plastic tube, but small diameter (maybe 3mm diameter). I can follow mine along the bonnet support from right to left before it disappears.

Next place it's easy to get to is as it goes into the back of the clocks. This requires lifting the dash up, but not out. If you search, Bay 13 had a pretty good HowTo on it. Just remember the 2 extra screws above the glovebox. Then, you can pull the clocks out and disconnect the pipe going into the brass 'nipple'. Check that elbow for leaks too. If you take the clocks fully out you can blow hard into the connector and get the gauge to move to be sure that's not broken.

HTH, Pete

st5ve · Jan 25th, 2007, 17:03

Thanks for the info Dooby, will have a look at it Friday. Not exactly sure how to lift dash but I think there is only 9 screws involved, so should not present too much of a problem. Not sure about bay 13, how do you/where do you search for that info?

MikeyL · Jan 25th, 2007, 17:17

you'd bleed boost off if it had of split so performance would be less.

dooby · Jan 25th, 2007, 17:24

http://volvospeed.com/Dashremove.php

Just beware it doesn't mention the other 2 screws which are exposed when the glovebox is opened, screws pointing upwards in top side of glovebox 'hole'.

I ripped mine through their plastic mounting points not realising this :-(

Cheers, Pete

st5ve · Jan 26th, 2007, 12:29

Dooby you are a diamond, that short cut re dash board removal first class. Job done all sorted.

After taking the dash off found the conector to dial was ok, problem stemed from front near side just at radiator, pipe had blown out of sleeve. Lesson learnt here, check easy jobs first!

PNuT · Jan 26th, 2007, 12:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by ttacornwall

Dooby you are a diamond, that short cut re dash board removal first class. Job done all sorted.

After taking the dash off found the conector to dial was ok, problem stemed from front near side just at radiator, pipe had blown out of sleeve. Lesson learnt here, check easy jobs first!

& read all dooby's posts

Jan 25th, 2007, 13:40	#1
st5ve S60 R Last Online: Aug 2nd, 2019 11:43 Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: United Kingdom	Volvo Boost gauge/dial not working Boost gauge not working at all 850 T5 gle phase 1, it sits at the 12 o’clock position all the time. Performance is still spot on was wondering if the hose has split or come off that leads to the gauge. Is this a dashboard out job or can it be done it situ without loosing to much skin off knuckles etc.

Jan 25th, 2007, 13:55	#2
dooby Forum Support Team Last Online: Jul 5th, 2019 16:11 Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Cambridge View Photos By: dooby	On my 850 I think the pipe starts at the vacuum tree under the throttle cover in the engine, so worth starting there. Mine is a hard white plastic tube, but small diameter (maybe 3mm diameter). I can follow mine along the bonnet support from right to left before it disappears. Next place it's easy to get to is as it goes into the back of the clocks. This requires lifting the dash up, but not out. If you search, Bay 13 had a pretty good HowTo on it. Just remember the 2 extra screws above the glovebox. Then, you can pull the clocks out and disconnect the pipe going into the brass 'nipple'. Check that elbow for leaks too. If you take the clocks fully out you can blow hard into the connector and get the gauge to move to be sure that's not broken. HTH, Pete __________________ '97MY black 855R M56H + Quaife Porsche/S60R BBK + XP8s, TD04HL-19T, 17"x8J Pegasus, THS intercooler, custom intake & RIP, Samco coolant, Koni/Nivo H&R, S60R manifold, TT-USB, Simota, IPD turbo back, IPD anti-roll bars & droplinks, IPD HT, MSD coil, Innovate LC-1, dimming mirror, Goodridge hoses, DOT5.1, V70 rear lights & handles, poly top bush & A arms & tie bar, strut brace, clear repeaters, 6k HID, catch tank, 2x rear brace

Jan 25th, 2007, 17:17	#4
MikeyL Member Last Online: Jan 18th, 2008 10:52 Join Date: Sep 2006 Location:	you'd bleed boost off if it had of split so performance would be less. __________________ Regards Mike 100% Humour guaranteed or your webspace back! www.mtek-performance.co.uk

Jan 25th, 2007, 17:24	#5
dooby Forum Support Team Last Online: Jul 5th, 2019 16:11 Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Cambridge View Photos By: dooby	http://volvospeed.com/Dashremove.php Just beware it doesn't mention the other 2 screws which are exposed when the glovebox is opened, screws pointing upwards in top side of glovebox 'hole'. I ripped mine through their plastic mounting points not realising this :-( Cheers, Pete __________________ '97MY black 855R M56H + Quaife Porsche/S60R BBK + XP8s, TD04HL-19T, 17"x8J Pegasus, THS intercooler, custom intake & RIP, Samco coolant, Koni/Nivo H&R, S60R manifold, TT-USB, Simota, IPD turbo back, IPD anti-roll bars & droplinks, IPD HT, MSD coil, Innovate LC-1, dimming mirror, Goodridge hoses, DOT5.1, V70 rear lights & handles, poly top bush & A arms & tie bar, strut brace, clear repeaters, 6k HID, catch tank, 2x rear brace

Jan 25th, 2007, 17:03	#3
st5ve S60 R Last Online: Aug 2nd, 2019 11:43 Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: United Kingdom	Thanks for the info Dooby, will have a look at it Friday. Not exactly sure how to lift dash but I think there is only 9 screws involved, so should not present too much of a problem. Not sure about bay 13, how do you/where do you search for that info?

Jan 26th, 2007, 12:29	#6
st5ve S60 R Last Online: Aug 2nd, 2019 11:43 Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: United Kingdom	Dooby you are a diamond, that short cut re dash board removal first class. Job done all sorted. After taking the dash off found the conector to dial was ok, problem stemed from front near side just at radiator, pipe had blown out of sleeve. Lesson learnt here, check easy jobs first!

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