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Fitting a new Alternator Voltage regulator

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Old Jan 12th, 2015, 18:33   #1
Beetledrive
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Default Fitting a new Alternator Voltage regulator

Like a lot of people at the moment I have noticed that my electrical system doesn't seem 100% this winter. After reading several threads on here, I decided to replace the voltage regulator. As expected, the brushes were low, at 4mm and 5mm (the minimum is 5mm according to Haynes).

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I've managed to get the old one out of the alternator while it was still in the car. However, I've been struggling to get the new one in and wondered if anyone could explain how they do it. I found a few youtube videos, one of which said it was very easy, that seem to suggest that the brushes push in, and there is a metal part on the regulator that needs to connect with the spring inside the alternator. This bit I think:



Does it sit on top of the spring and push it down? Perhaps I was struggling because it's still in the car, and it was dark, and cold, and windy. Would be grateful for tips

Thanks
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Old Jan 15th, 2015, 09:59   #2
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Hi..I did this job a few years back with the alternator in situ.It took a bit of fiddling about but it is possible..It also seems more tricky due to the tension of the new brushes pushing back on the regulator as you try to fit it..I feel its just a matter of trial and error untill you"re happy with its position..also when you do get it in and tighten home try not to overtighten the side of the regulator with the metal pole as this connection is crucial to the operation of the alternator..I did this and had to replace with different conductive screw...you"ll get there..hj.
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Old Jan 15th, 2015, 13:28   #3
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Thanks, that is helpful. I shall be tackling it again at the weekend. I had assumed that this would be an easy job, but it got off to a bad start when I realised that the screw on the metal pole side was chewed up and wasn't coming out. I resorted to carefully sawing through the plastic body on that side with half of a hacksaw blade so I could remove the regulator without damage, and then get the screw out.
I hadn't realised the screw was important so I might use the good screw from the other side for the connection and a new screw on the nearest side, which looks like it just needs to hold it in place.
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Old Jan 15th, 2015, 14:34   #4
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Have I read somewhere that you can tie the brushes back against their springs with a single run of sewing thread? That is then flicked off once the brushes are partly inside.
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Old Jan 15th, 2015, 15:22   #5
Paul240480
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I see the part numbers are slightly different...wonder if the casing is exactly the same... Why? Well mine died and I ended up being trucked to an auto-electrician who fitted a new unit.
I'd already fitted a cheappie from GSF & that went literally straight in. The fact it only lasted 14 months is another story......
Anyhow they had an, I think BERU make reg' for the car in stock & set about fitting it.
It wouldn't go in, two chaps tried for about 20 minutes. I eventually asked if I could match up the old and new units. The new one was very slightly different and had a bit of plastic that wasn't there on the old. It was that, that was fouling on the alternator.
They 'modified' it with a hack saw, & it went straight in.
Just have a close look at your two side by side.... probably not your issue, but thought it worthy of a mention
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Old Jan 15th, 2015, 18:20   #6
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That did cross my mind but it seems that Bosch 1197311022 was superseded by 1197311028. This Bosch alternator seems to have been quite popular with many other makes and models so I would hope it's designed to fit.
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Old Jan 17th, 2015, 18:58   #7
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Just a quick update and a thanks for the replies. It's now fitted and just needed constant pressure on the back to push it into place. I also used a small mirror to see where to line up the screw holes as it's difficult to see from above. I think my fingers had gone numb last weekend after trying to get the fouled screw off.
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Old Jan 17th, 2015, 22:49   #8
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A happy ending , cool!
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