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Diesel Engines A forum dedicated to diesel engines fitted to Volvo cars. See the first post in this forum for a list of the diesel engines. |
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Random engine cutout!Views : 7058 Replies : 29Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Feb 27th, 2013, 20:36 | #21 |
New Member
Last Online: Oct 18th, 2014 18:20
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Durham
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I swapped keys but engine is still cutting out/restarting. Any advice would be much appreciated.
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Feb 28th, 2013, 14:57 | #22 |
VOC Member
Last Online: Apr 24th, 2024 13:58
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Bristol
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Get the codes read then post back. Regards.
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Mar 2nd, 2013, 05:32 | #23 |
Master Member
Last Online: May 16th, 2014 08:31
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: edinburgh
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keys
I dont know if this is related but if you store some of the Toyota keys together , say in a pile in the kitchen worktop where the family has always heaped the keys together (you know we all do this) the keys could jumble each others codes up and none would work.
I have been to several breakdowns with toyotas that are key related, eg where hubby gives wife car keys to put in her bag on a night out and now both keys are kaput, 3 keys on the same ring at a car auction and lo and behold the car wont start ect ect. I wonder if this was in any way related? |
Mar 4th, 2013, 16:31 | #24 |
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Last Online: Oct 18th, 2014 18:20
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Durham
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Many thanks for your replies. The car is back at the garage today, with some pointers from the earlier forums. I'll keep you posted. Regards.
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Mar 19th, 2013, 11:18 | #25 |
Junior Member
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I have a similar problem, engine cuts out intermittently, stalls sometimes.
Fault codes coming up are: * 2501 - Fuel pressure high, intermittent * 2502 - Fuel pressure high, intermittent * 820A - Main relay switch, intermittent I tried graphing some parameters while driving with a scan-tool to see if the fuel pressure is not being regulated properly (codes 2501 2502). The scan-tool seems to loose communication with the ECU when the engine cuts out which could point to something on the supply side to the ECU. Another thing which points to supply is that when I read the battery voltage with the scan-tool from the ECU it's consistently ~2V lower than when I measure it on the charging post by the fuse box with a multimeter. There is apparently a known problem with the fuse box on the early D5s. See thread for example: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/archiv...p/t-23944.html |
Mar 21st, 2013, 16:47 | #26 |
New Member
Last Online: Oct 18th, 2014 18:20
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Durham
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Many thanks for the info. I am still suffering the same fault but the known problem with the fuse box looks well worth checking out.
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Mar 21st, 2013, 17:50 | #27 |
Junior Member
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I opened the fuse box and unplugged and replugged the big grey connector, the ECU main relay and the ECU main fuse, a couple of days ago. I haven't had any more cut-outs since, but then again it was an intermittent problem to start with.
If it comes back, I will take the circuit board out of the fuse box and see if there is any visible problems with it. Last edited by xpress; Mar 21st, 2013 at 17:53. |
Apr 28th, 2013, 11:35 | #28 |
New Member
Last Online: Oct 18th, 2014 18:20
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Durham
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Thanks for all your help. I have had the fuse box stripped down and all the connections checked. 1000 miles later and no problems so fingers crossed its sorted.
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Jul 5th, 2014, 15:21 | #29 |
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Last Online: Sep 27th, 2017 14:28
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Golspie
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engine cutting out
Hi, My S60 D5 2002, has had the same issue for a year, getting worse, tried all sorts of simple fixes, MAF clean, earths clean, ERG. ECU reveals code 820A.
Where is this relay?. Also I do not think my car has coded keys, it is separate remote fob type and I only have one. I also have code 1200, boost air temp sensor. anybody know where this is? I read it was at the intercooler outlet, but it is not on my model. Help please. |
Jul 5th, 2014, 15:39 | #30 |
New Member
Last Online: Sep 27th, 2017 14:28
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Golspie
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I am having similar problems. My car must be older and does not have 'smart' key.
Let me know how you get on please. I had an diagnostic done and the important codes were 820A main relay switch. and 1200, boost air temp sensor. Today I swopped relays to see what happens and I cannot find the boost air temperature sensor, it is supposed to be on the intercooler outlet but it is not on my model. On my usual 165 mile drive to work tomorrow so we shall see how it goes then. I will report back from work. [oil platform] |
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