16v conversion. - Page 2

barkster1971 · May 28th, 2011, 19:51

I would advise a start in the piggy bank department. I would guess that there are less than 5 16V turbos in the UK? How many are actually on the road?
Without putting a hefty turbo on there's not much point. Unless you want a 400bhp+ motor there's not much point.
300bhp on a 8v turbo is a lot more attainable. Also every section of the car is going to require serious upgrading to make it safe,drivable and reliable.
Unless you've got a least 3k (and probably twice that) spare and a lot of spare time I would stick with a turbo 8v.

rogerthechorister · May 28th, 2011, 22:20

Machining - if you want flycut B230 pistons and rebore +60 - about £600
New pistons and array of sundries inc valves and followers and a rusty old turbo - about £600
Assembly - allow same
Engine transplant - allow £600
Clutch parts - £150
Put it in a Sport - no suspenders needed
Set of Black Diamond front brakes - £100

Under £3K - less if you do the work yourself. It assumes you have a spare B234F engine though. Add £700 if you want arse'ole conrods and pistons. Prolly over 300 bhp.

If you have a GOOD B234F in car and are going to keep it mild: -

Oilways work - £300 - much less if you do it yourself and put the return into the side of the sump.
Baby mitsu and adapter plate and 90+ - £150
Cometic gasket - £200
Do the head swap yourself
Gaskets and new cambelt - £100.

Allow for changing M46 every year - and super petrol.

230 bhp and more for under a grand, maybe under £500. Probably £250 if you have a Garret lying about, but careful of that M46 - and you will need to sort the watercooling. Well over 250bhp if you do the inlet mani.

IMHO.

BigBas · May 29th, 2011, 00:09

I gotta agree with barkster on this, seems bit pointless of going 16v unless your going for mega power. Seems more logical to find a B230FT, or even an ET (High compression) and start playing with the usual. Start with a MBC, new intercooler, bigger turbo, remap/megasquirt. If your still not happy, then you can carry on, Cylinder head ported, 2.5 - 3 inch exhaust, high flow cat, new fuel pump. At this point, your going to be pushing 300hp already, so might be time to get forged internals then before you up the boost anymore.
If you still want more, then 16v would be beneficial, due to being able to put twice the fuel in, with twice the amount of valves.

Bas

czech240 · Mar 9th, 2012, 13:00

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yhA9mMmXjDk

volvoz2000 · Mar 9th, 2012, 22:25

oh please... .16v is definately the way to go.....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W9s3fMTBla4

May 28th, 2011, 19:51	#11
barkster1971 VOC Member Last Online: Yesterday 14:45 Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Swineshead/Salford	power! I would advise a start in the piggy bank department. I would guess that there are less than 5 16V turbos in the UK? How many are actually on the road? Without putting a hefty turbo on there's not much point. Unless you want a 400bhp+ motor there's not much point. 300bhp on a 8v turbo is a lot more attainable. Also every section of the car is going to require serious upgrading to make it safe,drivable and reliable. Unless you've got a least 3k (and probably twice that) spare and a lot of spare time I would stick with a turbo 8v.

May 28th, 2011, 22:20	#12
rogerthechorister Rogerthechorister Last Online: Dec 16th, 2023 02:15 Join Date: May 2006 Location: Rochester	Cost? Machining - if you want flycut B230 pistons and rebore +60 - about £600 New pistons and array of sundries inc valves and followers and a rusty old turbo - about £600 Assembly - allow same Engine transplant - allow £600 Clutch parts - £150 Put it in a Sport - no suspenders needed Set of Black Diamond front brakes - £100 Under £3K - less if you do the work yourself. It assumes you have a spare B234F engine though. Add £700 if you want arse'ole conrods and pistons. Prolly over 300 bhp. If you have a GOOD B234F in car and are going to keep it mild: - Oilways work - £300 - much less if you do it yourself and put the return into the side of the sump. Baby mitsu and adapter plate and 90+ - £150 Cometic gasket - £200 Do the head swap yourself Gaskets and new cambelt - £100. Allow for changing M46 every year - and super petrol. 230 bhp and more for under a grand, maybe under £500. Probably £250 if you have a Garret lying about, but careful of that M46 - and you will need to sort the watercooling. Well over 250bhp if you do the inlet mani. IMHO.

May 29th, 2011, 00:09	#13
BigBas VOC Member Last Online: May 1st, 2013 15:10 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Dewsbury	I gotta agree with barkster on this, seems bit pointless of going 16v unless your going for mega power. Seems more logical to find a B230FT, or even an ET (High compression) and start playing with the usual. Start with a MBC, new intercooler, bigger turbo, remap/megasquirt. If your still not happy, then you can carry on, Cylinder head ported, 2.5 - 3 inch exhaust, high flow cat, new fuel pump. At this point, your going to be pushing 300hp already, so might be time to get forged internals then before you up the boost anymore. If you still want more, then 16v would be beneficial, due to being able to put twice the fuel in, with twice the amount of valves. Bas __________________ '92 Volvo 940S 2.0 N/A 167,000 <<< Thats 172,000 now, no longer in use :-( Volvo S80 D5 S

Mar 9th, 2012, 13:00	#14
czech240 Master Member Last Online: Oct 16th, 2019 19:56 Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Jablunkov	:-) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yhA9mMmXjDk __________________ Current car 1999 V70 XC www.rideczech.com

Mar 9th, 2012, 22:25	#15
volvoz2000 Premier Member Last Online: Jun 10th, 2022 11:48 Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: reading	oh please... .16v is definately the way to go..... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W9s3fMTBla4

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