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S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004. |
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Handbrake not working after rear caliper rebuildViews : 5152 Replies : 27Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Dec 7th, 2016, 08:35 | #11 |
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BEFORE you adjust anything, you need to stamp on the brake pedal a few times to get the caliper pistons back into postion - this should do the trick.
If not you will adjust the handbrake incorrectly as it will engage with a few clicks (as its been adjusted) but the rear brakes will be pap. Give it a try, it will sort the issue.
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Dec 7th, 2016, 09:03 | #12 | |||
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Dec 7th, 2016, 11:24 | #13 |
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Only reason I mentioned adjusting that nut, is because you mentioned that you have to pull the handbrake lever very high up.
With regards to the limiters, on the callipers, they actually rest when you release the handbrake. When you pull the handbrake up, they pull away from the stops. I am not ruling out that something may be wrong with the calliper by the way
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Dec 7th, 2016, 13:00 | #14 | |
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As I understand this shouldn't be happening and I should feel resistance from the cylinder digging into the brake pads somewhere between those stops. But it never happens. I pull and eventually the maximum position limiters stop me from pulling that handbrake lever until it points at the rear seat passengers. |
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Dec 7th, 2016, 13:15 | #15 |
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You need to go back to basics and follow the installation instructions in the pdf.
I believe it mentions winding the calliper out until you only have 1mm clearance (between piston and pad) when you have it fitted. This will allow the mechanism to self adjust. This method does work as I used a similar method when I installed an new calliper and my handbrake is fine and doesn't lose its adjustment. With that in mind I believe I did slacken off the handbrake adjuster in order to remove the cable from the calliper. In which case I would have adjusted it back up till the levers on the callipers are just starting to lift off. Apparently 1mm or less clearance with the stops with the handbrake off is okay. Thinking it through, if you have working brakes then your callipers are probably auto-adjusted up okay and what you need to do now is adjust the hand brake cable adjuster nut (under the centre console) until the levers are just coming off the stops with the handbrake off. You may want to back it off then to get your less than 1mm clearance or so that it just touches the stop. I think you will find that sorts your problem. If everything is correctly adjusted and travel is still a bit long then find a steep hill near you and brake firmly a few times whilst going down it (at a safe speed). I find this usually improves matters.
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Dec 7th, 2016, 13:58 | #16 | |
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Didn't have the time to try this out yet, but I'll just try screwing the cylinders back in and manually wind them out until there is barely any room between the disc and pad and see how that works out. |
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Dec 7th, 2016, 15:56 | #17 |
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I am a little shocked by this thread as i understood that winding it out then pumping it back was IT - done, mines ATF at the mo but thats handbrake cables needed.
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Dec 7th, 2016, 19:49 | #18 |
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If memory serves there isn't really a limiter on the handbrake levers.
The cables must be set up so that the levers only just rest on their stops (or a hairs breadth just off them) with the handbrake off. Easiest way to do this is to chock the wheels, let the handbrake off, free the centre console (no need to remove it entirely necessarily) and wind in the adjuster nut until the levers just come off their rests (you can look under the car with a torch) then back it off until they are just touching. You can take the wheels off if it makes it easier or even just jack up the rear end and put it on axle stands. Removing the centre console is not hard, nor is adjusting the adjuster nut. I think you just have to bite the bullet and do it as it is the only way to set up the handbrake properly and have it self adjust.
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Dec 7th, 2016, 20:04 | #19 |
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I'm not sure if part of the procedure is to do with making sure you get all the air out of a dry calliper. Don't think it matters so much with callipers already fitted and bled. You aren't supposed to pump the pedal to re-adjust the clearance except for the final seating of piston to pad. Not really sure why that is but I read that the mechanism isn't designed for it. You can get round it by just winding it back the right amount to fit the new pads. Or not, it seems to work either way.
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Dec 8th, 2016, 08:26 | #20 | |
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The lever sits nicely near the minimum position stop when the handbrake is released, so I don't believe any tensioning is needed. Balancing - maybe, as the sides don't engage at the same time, but it should hold anyways as eventually both sides max out. You had the same problem? I can only decipher ATF as automatic transmission fluid. Last edited by ww1dm1; Dec 8th, 2016 at 10:40. |
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brakes, handbrake, rear caliper, rebuild, refurbish |
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