Fuel System: 140 Carb: - Running problem on 1971 144DL. Help.

80sRich · Feb 18th, 2010, 15:23

Hi Guys,

I was wondering if any of you can help us with the latest problem on my new 144.

Ok, so here is the problem, the car starts and runs great. In fact very well. Until... the temperature gauge comes up to temperature then the fuel disappears and the engine struggles and then stops. But after a couple of minutes to cool off it starts again fine.

In the process of sorting this problem we have rebuilt the Carburettor including jets, needle and float valves, and we have also just replaced the fuel pump with a new one from Brookhouse Volvo.

The problem happens in the exact same place on our test circuit.

So, the only problems that we can think of are, fuel tank blockage (though why would that happen only when it heats up and in the same place?) or the fuel pipe is running to close to what looks like a non standard rear exhaust and it is getting too hot and causing a vapour lock.

Does any one have any ideas? Any help appreciated.

Snowman · Feb 18th, 2010, 17:04

Sounds like you're on the right track but just a thought......the vent from the fuel tank isn't blocked is it? That'll cause a vacuum that will release naturally after a few minutes through the fuel cap? Try driving it (carefully!) with the fuel cap off or loose to be sure, vent pipe comes out behind the bumper. Mine was packed full of dirt and the tank imploded!

80sRich · Feb 18th, 2010, 17:32

Hi, thanks for the suggestion. I just went out and cleaned out that pipe with a coat hanger. It didn't seem to be blocked, but it was very close to the edge of the bumper.
Started it up again, and the fuel filter filled to half full. Before I did that the fuel filter had only a trickle in the bottom of it.
Should the fuel filter be full to the top?

80sRich · Feb 19th, 2010, 11:20

Ok, so jacked her up and put her on stands this morning so we could get a look underneath.
Now the fuel pipes all seem in quite good condition, however at the fuel tank end the pipe seems to be touching the exhaust box. See picture attached. Could this be the problem?
Also we are not sure what this exhaust is, but it looks fairly knackered!

80sRich · Feb 19th, 2010, 14:19

Ok, so the plot thickens.
Took her on the same test circuit today, this time it broke down in the same place, but before the engine had chance to heat up, which I guess means that it is nothing to to with the temperature.
So the spot is on a slight incline, after a sharp turn. So I am guessing that there is a partial blockage of the fuel tank. When we stop there is no fuel in the filter at all.
So I guess, out with the tank and see what it is like.

Snowman · Feb 19th, 2010, 17:54

At least the tank is easy to remove!

No other sneaky filter been stuck in the line I suppose? Do I recall that some cars had one from the factory close to the tank. Easy enough to spot if there is one and to by-pass for a test.

Just a thought and if I'm wrong, sincere apologies!

80sRich · Feb 19th, 2010, 19:02

Alas we looked the length of the fuel line today and there are no sneaky filters anywhere along it.
On the plus side the underneath of the car looks great, pretty clean under there, which is a good sign that the costs to sort out the body work won't be too much! Fingers crossed.
I hope we can sort this problem out, 'cause on the test runs she feels like a great car to drive.

If the tank is full of sludge how easy will it be to clean out? Does anyone have any tips?

If the worst comes to the worst, does anyone know how much and how easy to find replacement fuel tanks are?

Snowman · Feb 20th, 2010, 10:46

I've just cleaned out the one in a Mini I'm playing with. I just kept washing it out with hot water, then a hosepipe for a final rinse! You can buy tank cleaning fluid and sealer if you want to spend money but as long as the outlet is clear, it should be enough.

Derek UK · Feb 20th, 2010, 11:44

Assuming that you have a Stromberg carb, you might be having problems with the temperature compensator on the side. It's in the narrow rectangular box. Hopefully, someone who knows about these can confirm/dismiss this as a possibility.

80sRich · Feb 21st, 2010, 13:53

Hi Derek, but a problem with the carb wouldn't account for the fuel filter being empty immediately after the engine cuts out would it?
I spoke to a couple of people yesterday who said that the problem could be that the fuel tank has been dented and the bottom of the tank is pressing up against the feed pipe. Anyway, sure enough right where the feed pipe would be there is a large dent.
So we are going to drain the tank, see what state it is in, get that dent out and see if that solves things.

Feb 18th, 2010, 15:23	#1
80sRich Member Last Online: May 21st, 2024 23:37 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Portsmouth	Running problem on 1971 144DL. Help. Hi Guys, I was wondering if any of you can help us with the latest problem on my new 144. Ok, so here is the problem, the car starts and runs great. In fact very well. Until... the temperature gauge comes up to temperature then the fuel disappears and the engine struggles and then stops. But after a couple of minutes to cool off it starts again fine. In the process of sorting this problem we have rebuilt the Carburettor including jets, needle and float valves, and we have also just replaced the fuel pump with a new one from Brookhouse Volvo. The problem happens in the exact same place on our test circuit. So, the only problems that we can think of are, fuel tank blockage (though why would that happen only when it heats up and in the same place?) or the fuel pipe is running to close to what looks like a non standard rear exhaust and it is getting too hot and causing a vapour lock. Does any one have any ideas? Any help appreciated. Last edited by 80sRich; Feb 18th, 2010 at 15:40.

Feb 18th, 2010, 17:04	#2
Snowman never knowingly slow Last Online: Aug 8th, 2012 09:31 Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: near Bath	Sounds like you're on the right track but just a thought......the vent from the fuel tank isn't blocked is it? That'll cause a vacuum that will release naturally after a few minutes through the fuel cap? Try driving it (carefully!) with the fuel cap off or loose to be sure, vent pipe comes out behind the bumper. Mine was packed full of dirt and the tank imploded!

Feb 18th, 2010, 17:32	#3
80sRich Member Last Online: May 21st, 2024 23:37 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Portsmouth	Hi, thanks for the suggestion. I just went out and cleaned out that pipe with a coat hanger. It didn't seem to be blocked, but it was very close to the edge of the bumper. Started it up again, and the fuel filter filled to half full. Before I did that the fuel filter had only a trickle in the bottom of it. Should the fuel filter be full to the top?

Feb 19th, 2010, 14:19	#5
80sRich Member Last Online: May 21st, 2024 23:37 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Portsmouth	Ok, so the plot thickens. Took her on the same test circuit today, this time it broke down in the same place, but before the engine had chance to heat up, which I guess means that it is nothing to to with the temperature. So the spot is on a slight incline, after a sharp turn. So I am guessing that there is a partial blockage of the fuel tank. When we stop there is no fuel in the filter at all. So I guess, out with the tank and see what it is like.

Feb 19th, 2010, 17:54	#6
Snowman never knowingly slow Last Online: Aug 8th, 2012 09:31 Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: near Bath	At least the tank is easy to remove! No other sneaky filter been stuck in the line I suppose? Do I recall that some cars had one from the factory close to the tank. Easy enough to spot if there is one and to by-pass for a test. Just a thought and if I'm wrong, sincere apologies!

Feb 19th, 2010, 19:02	#7
80sRich Member Last Online: May 21st, 2024 23:37 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Portsmouth	Alas we looked the length of the fuel line today and there are no sneaky filters anywhere along it. On the plus side the underneath of the car looks great, pretty clean under there, which is a good sign that the costs to sort out the body work won't be too much! Fingers crossed. I hope we can sort this problem out, 'cause on the test runs she feels like a great car to drive. If the tank is full of sludge how easy will it be to clean out? Does anyone have any tips? If the worst comes to the worst, does anyone know how much and how easy to find replacement fuel tanks are?

Feb 20th, 2010, 10:46	#8
Snowman never knowingly slow Last Online: Aug 8th, 2012 09:31 Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: near Bath	I've just cleaned out the one in a Mini I'm playing with. I just kept washing it out with hot water, then a hosepipe for a final rinse! You can buy tank cleaning fluid and sealer if you want to spend money but as long as the outlet is clear, it should be enough.

Feb 20th, 2010, 11:44	#9
Derek UK VOC Member Last Online: Yesterday 22:23 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Chatham	Assuming that you have a Stromberg carb, you might be having problems with the temperature compensator on the side. It's in the narrow rectangular box. Hopefully, someone who knows about these can confirm/dismiss this as a possibility.

Feb 21st, 2010, 13:53	#10
80sRich Member Last Online: May 21st, 2024 23:37 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Portsmouth	Hi Derek, but a problem with the carb wouldn't account for the fuel filter being empty immediately after the engine cuts out would it? I spoke to a couple of people yesterday who said that the problem could be that the fuel tank has been dented and the bottom of the tank is pressing up against the feed pipe. Anyway, sure enough right where the feed pipe would be there is a large dent. So we are going to drain the tank, see what state it is in, get that dent out and see if that solves things.

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