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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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Timing belt and front sealsViews : 2279 Replies : 38Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Sep 28th, 2020, 18:39 | #1 |
Junior Member
Last Online: Aug 13th, 2021 18:22
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Rothwell
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Timing belt and front seals
Hey
Bloody long time no post, just got hold of another 240 with the 2.3 engine ( is that the b230f? ) it’s done a fair few miles About 220 000, timing belt was last changed in 2016. I’m desperate to have a go at replacing the timing belt myself and doing the front oils seals whilst one there. I have watched loads of videos and read lengthy how too’s I would like to buy the Crank pulley tool to undertake the job? Wondered what thoughts were on this? is it worth it? I have never done a timing belt before but I have done lots on old tractor engines (all except timing chains and oil seals really) Should I scratch this itch ?? |
Sep 28th, 2020, 19:02 | #2 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Oct 26th, 2023 20:42
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Thurrock
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Hello.
Your starting point for information re changing the timing belt is Mike Brace's how to in the Articles part of this section of the forum. The crankshaft tool is excellent. I bought one. Loki owns it now because I received another one at an absolute bargain deal. And there are various tried workarounds. Clifford Pope has an excellent method involving cutting the lower cover of the cam belt. So far I have used the Volvo tool. Loki in this forum loans the tool to forum members by post. I'm not young and am slower than slow and I had never done a timing belt before. But it had to be done so .... You can twiddle a spanner, you have whatever determination you may need, you will do it. And then you will be dispensing experience, just like olde fool me, no you will dispense better experience than Olde me ! Enjoy!! . Last edited by Stephen Edwin; Sep 28th, 2020 at 19:07. |
Sep 28th, 2020, 19:14 | #3 |
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Last Online: May 16th, 2024 23:40
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Location: Surrey
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I changed the one on my B200F which mechanically speaking is no different from a cambelt change perspective to the B230. One of the easiest ones I've done, and I used the Clifford Pope method of cutting off just the lower part of the cover to avoid the need for the tool. Of course doing it this way prohibits changing the front oil seal, but that's only worth changing if it's actually leaking, otherwise leave well alone.
Don't bother with a new tensioner, unless you find the current one is worn. Mine is 180,000 miles young and the tensioner had no play, so I have a spare one in the garage since I'm used to Ford engines which do need them changing with the belt. Ditto the water pump, if it's OK leave it, they are not the best design ever and need a bit of care when fitting a new one to avoid leaks. |
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Sep 28th, 2020, 19:23 | #4 |
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Last Online: Oct 26th, 2023 20:42
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Location: Thurrock
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Thank you for that Cosmic.
And re the water pump ... from what I read in the forum the current genuine Volvo pump is not the best. There is a make regularly recommended in the forum. And. Fitting is apparently a bit of a faff. Basically if the water pump is working, keep it and leave it alone, real old original ones last and last ... if you need a new pump get advice in the forum what make to buy. . |
Sep 28th, 2020, 19:34 | #5 |
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Last Online: Yesterday 20:00
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I don’t have a tool to lock the crank, I use a battery powered impact wrench to take the bottom pulley bolt off and replace it.
Get a set of seal picks to remove seals with, one of those jobs where having the correct tool makes all the difference. Otherwise, follow the advice above and ask if you get stuck- it’s not a hard job. Cheers |
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Sep 29th, 2020, 06:24 | #6 |
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The above are right: changing the cam belt is an easy job on a red block motor, indeed I'd say it is the easiest OHC motor I've come across to work on in this respect (only one camshaft, inline, everything at the front, not many ancillaries, big engine bay...).
I'm not sure I'd bother changing the seals unless they are leaking. If I do change seals (mostly on 2-stroke bikes - they wear out quickly) I just use a self tapping screw, which works fine (but proper picks sound cool, I'd never thought of them so I might buy some). Good fortune, Alan PS. The water pump is easily accessible (unlike most) and so pretty simple to change. I'm not sure I'd bother changing it unless the bearings were getting noisy or it was leaking somewhere. You could always come back to that later if you had a problem. Last edited by Othen; Sep 29th, 2020 at 07:10. |
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