1800: P1800ES fuel injection

[VolvoRoyS]

Hi everyone,
Just bought a 1973 P1800ES (to accompany my 2001 V70 T5) and trying to sort out the fuel injection. Can anyone tell me where the thermal timer for the cold start valve is situated? A previous owner has seriously messed about with the cold start system. I am having trouble starting the car from cold. So far established that the cold start valve is not working and doesn't seem to be getting any power, but there has been a lot of rewiring which I'm trying to sort out but don't even know where the thermo timer is. Any help much appreciated.

Roy

[cassell]

Hi Roy,

It's to be found screwed into the right hand side of the engine block just below the exhaust manifold close to the bulkhead if that makes sense. It has two wires, one white and one black from memory both held in place with screwed connectors.

They are no longer available new and difficult to source second hand. If yours has failed it is possible to wire a manual switch to activate it when cold and deactivate it when the engine is sufficiently warm to no longer need the cold start injector.

Hope that helps?

Paul

[cassell]

Here's a PDF picture for you...

[VolvoRoyS]

Thanks for the prompt reply. I spent an hour this morning unravelling lots of taped up wires and eventually concluded that a switch has been installed to do as you suggest. I still can't see the thermal timer but there is a hole where it might go so wonder how it has been blocked off.

[VolvoRoyS]

Found the switch to activate the cold start under the dash and have tidied up the wiring; removed at least 4 feet of wiring and several connectors and an in-line fuse. Unfortunately the previous owner chopped off the connector to the valve and made his own push connectors. I wonder why he didn't just cut the old wires and solder in the new wires to the switch. Anyone know if the male part of the connector is available so that I could make a better connection to the valve?

[142 Guy]

Beck Arnley used to sell the plastic plug body and internal spade connectors (female terminals) at a very nice price. However, that ship appears to have set sail.

These guys offer complete terminal kits for the 1800E with new boots, housings and terminals and the special tool for removal and insertion of the terminal in the plug body.

https://www.djetparts.com/english?lang=en

They also offer the individual boots, plugs and connectors. I believe the Volvo uses the generic D Jetronic spade connector which is about 1/8" wide.

Since you are new to the world of vintage Volvo and D Jetronic ownership, go here

https://volvo1800pictures.com/sweden...in_page_en.php

and download copies of the 1800 ES service manual and the all important Fuel Injection Fault Tracing manual for the D Jet. Knowledge will be your friend because you are going to be largely on your own when it comes to working on the D Jet system.

As a D Jet owner (actually a Megasquirt - D Jet hybrid) my guidance to any new D Jet owner is to carefully check the D Jet wiring were it enters the connectors at all of the engine connected 'bits' (fuel injectors, sensors ......). After 50 years, I expect that you will find that the insulation on the wires has hardened and may have reached the point where it has crumbled and is falling off which can lead to outright shorts or low resistance bridging causing erratic performance. On my car I ended up stripping the harness back about 20 - 30 cm to replace all the wiring at the plug ends of the harness. Replace with high temperature rated wire. TXL cross link is good (125 C rating). PTFE insulated is really good; but, expensive and can be hard to source unless you want 1000' of the stuff. You can replace the stripped harness cover with stretchable silicone rubber jackets or wrap the harness with self amalgamating silicone tape.

https://www.gardnerbender.com/en/p/H...-inch-x10-inch

The self amalgamating tape makes a very nice looking custom harness cover if you are careful with the wrapping and it is extremely chemical and heat resistant. The down side is that once wrapped you cannot unwrap it so if you goof you need to cut it off and start over. Do not use heat shrink tubing for replacement harness covers.