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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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Cylinder not firingViews : 4333 Replies : 16Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Oct 21st, 2021, 11:49 | #1 |
Premier Member
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Cylinder not firing
Hi,
I have an odd problem. No power coming out of one ot the poles (?) on the distributor cap until you have driven at least a mile. I've checked the pin (? Sorry, terminology failing me) on the inside, and it looks the same as the other, and I have measured connectivity from the inside to the outside. I am inclined to think the rotor and hall effect pick-up may have too big a gap, is that a thing? I replaced the inner parts a few years ago and didn't adjust anything. Haynes mentions a gap of 0.1" between the rotor and pick-up, but shown on a Chrysler distributor and my Bosch doesn't appear to be the same. Am I even on the right track here? If I pry the rotor out, will anything be adjustable, like on the Chrysler distributor? Thanks
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--- '89 Volvo 240GLT B230E/AW70 '14 Volvo V70 SE D4/M66 FWD '70 Chevrolet Chevelle Malibu '95 Saab 9000 CSE 2.0 Turbo Auto |
Oct 27th, 2021, 11:37 | #2 | |
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Last Online: Dec 19th, 2023 00:34
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Seaside town Lincs
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Quote:
also if the other plugs are fine then the hall sensor is working OK because there's one sensor and 4 outputs on the cap and the misfire disappears after a mile or so, Some options to try check the spark plug for that cylinder Clean the rotor arm centre and end contact with fine wet and dry sandpaper try a different ignition lead look to see if the cap has a hairline crack
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Just because you own a welder it does not mean you can weld. Let's Go Brandon! Last edited by AndrewBrown; Oct 27th, 2021 at 11:42. |
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Oct 27th, 2021, 12:07 | #3 |
Premier Member
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Hi,
Before a mile, not after. There might only be one hall sensor but there are four bits of magnetic metal flying past it, and the gap is over ten times what it is meant to be for a Chrysler distributor. The car has just failed the MOT on rust, so I have plenty of time to take the distributor apart to adjust this. I wil document the progress and results. Thanks
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--- '89 Volvo 240GLT B230E/AW70 '14 Volvo V70 SE D4/M66 FWD '70 Chevrolet Chevelle Malibu '95 Saab 9000 CSE 2.0 Turbo Auto |
Oct 27th, 2021, 13:10 | #4 | |
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Last Online: Dec 19th, 2023 00:34
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Seaside town Lincs
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Quote:
that rebuild will make a good thread, your distributor must be one like this http://forum.vccn.no/img-dump/2017/10/277.jpg maybe one of the side skirts of the plate is bent inwards....just a thought
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Just because you own a welder it does not mean you can weld. Let's Go Brandon! |
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Oct 27th, 2021, 13:43 | #5 | |
Premier Member
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Quote:
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--- '89 Volvo 240GLT B230E/AW70 '14 Volvo V70 SE D4/M66 FWD '70 Chevrolet Chevelle Malibu '95 Saab 9000 CSE 2.0 Turbo Auto |
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Nov 27th, 2022, 16:39 | #6 |
Premier Member
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Time flies, but I finally took my distributor apart yesterday. Contrary to what the Haynes manual says, and my memory was correct, the pick-up/trigger isn't movable.
The pick-up actually has an inner and outer bit (photo below), so I suspect it doesn't matter where exactly the magnets fly through. So, I'm a bit stumped. Winter has worsened this problem again, driving the first mile on three cylinders.
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--- '89 Volvo 240GLT B230E/AW70 '14 Volvo V70 SE D4/M66 FWD '70 Chevrolet Chevelle Malibu '95 Saab 9000 CSE 2.0 Turbo Auto |
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