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850 / S70 & V70 '96-'99 / C70 '97-'05 General Forum for the 850 and P80-platform 70-series models |
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Inlet manifold removal and oil seperator/pcv hose replacementViews : 26767 Replies : 87Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Sep 2nd, 2006, 15:41 | #1 |
Phoenix from the ashes
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Inlet manifold removal and oil seperator/pcv hose replacement
There has been a fair amount of talk recently regarding crankcase pressure leading to rear crankcase seal faliure so below is a step by step on manifold removal and breather system change...
Stage 1 Check the following http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850oiltrapturbo.htm for part numbers relating to your vehicle (by engine number), i did not bother with any of the volvo clips as i had an assortment of jubilee clips to hand, the volvo clips are a pain in the ass... the parts i went for are 1 x 1271988...oil trap £16.00 1 x 9471644...hose and assorted guff £21.40 2 x 1389574...elbow (unused) £3.60 1 x 9146266...inlet manifold gasket £6.30 1 x 9135990...throttle gasket (unused) £1.75 total inc vat £57.64 Stage 2 Identify your pcv valve on the inlet air pipe..... remove the crankcase ventilation pipe (larger one) , the inlet manifold blow off pipe (smaller one) and the electrical plug... Stage 3 Remove air intake pipe at the turbo, air box and intercooler pipework including the ducting to the throttle housing...(not shown removed) it is also advisable to remove the dizzy cap and the spark plug cover..(also not shown removed) Stage 4 Release the accelerator cable from the cable drum and the linkage ball joint....remove the drum frame from the throttle housing and put aside... Then remove the one retaining bolt and remove the presure regulator hose at tree on the throttle body and then the throttle inlet hose can be removed and put aside in the engine bay.... Stage 5 Remove the fuel rail cover and injector wiring and put aside in engine bay. Then remove the fuel rail clamp on the rear of the top of the engine and unscrew the fuel inlet pipe on the left of the injector rail, be prepared for a small fuel loss...the rubber hose may be left intact... Stage 6 Remove the two 10mm bolts from the injector rail and carefully pull the rail away from the inlet manifold and twist it so it can be rested upside down on the top of the engine Stage 7 Using a 10mm extension socket with u/j remove the top manifold bolts and loosten the bottom ones several turns..the only real difficulty is the bottom left hand bolt that can only be accessed as shown below which means the top hose must be removed at the thermostat....it is at this stage that the 12mm dipstick to manifold bolt and the underside 12mm bolt need to be removed...note do not waste time and skin using a ratchet on these, invest in a 12mm ratchet closed spanner...and a 10mm one while you are at it..they are priceless tools Stage 8 Lift manifold up off block and set asside removing the left hand side bleed pipe and the breather pipe from the oil seperator at the cam cover so that the manifold can be withdrawn... The oil seperator will now be clearly visable... Stage 9 Remove the plug to the left hand knock sensor and remover the pipes to the pcv and discard..To remove the oil seperator from the block there are two bolts and finally the two hoses to the block are removed by breaking the clamp on the top hose and unscrewing the adjustable clamp on the bottom.. check the condition in particular of the bottom "return" hose for blockage, i shoved a piece of hosepipe in and blew to reasuure myself that the airway was clear...they were.. good pipe bad pipe.............................................. ....... old seperator new seperator as you will see the pipework is clearly knackered but externally the seperator looks "used" only, however it was very coked inside... At this stage if you did not before remove the dizzy so that the new pcv and blow off pipe can be intalled in position..Put on new inlet manifold gasket and replace the dizzy cap Connect the blow off pipe to the inlet manifold Stage 10 Repace the inlet manifold and torque to 20nm.....AFTER you have done up the inlet bottom mounting bolt... Stage 11 Replace the fuel injectors, using the two 10mm bolts, their wiring and the injector rail cover.. Stage 12 Replace the accelerator drum frame and reconnect the accelerator cable and the linkage Stage 13 Replace the throttle housing and gasket if required, mine only needed a skin of instant gasket... not forgetting the pipe to the pressure regulator, and reconnect the throttle air inlet pipework. Then ensure that all electrical plugs heve been replaced refit the air inlet hose to the turbo and fit the ventilation pipe and blow off to the pcv, the latter will require a jubilee clip Stage 14 Replace the airbox, air inlet to airbox and intercooler pipe work....not forgetting the dipstick to inlet manifold bolt i have omitted serveral small bits and bobs regarding disconnecting this and connecting that which will be all apparent to anyone undertaking this operation... This job is only imo a 2/5 and is easy provided you are methodical and keep your bolts etc in order... Do not forget your 12mm ratchet spanner.... Good luck cheers jod
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Dum Spiro Spero VOC 20419 Last edited by Jod T5; Sep 24th, 2007 at 10:24. |
The Following 8 Users Say Thank You to Jod T5 For This Useful Post: |
Sep 2nd, 2006, 18:49 | #2 |
diy bhp
Last Online: Apr 7th, 2011 19:38
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good work jodders, ill be printing it off and looking forward to my hols :-)
wayne.
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auto 96 T5 tweaked n ratted |
Sep 2nd, 2006, 20:34 | #3 |
Phoenix from the ashes
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thanks wayne..
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Sep 3rd, 2006, 10:34 | #4 |
Senior Member
Last Online: Jun 5th, 2024 21:15
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Nice guide there. One thing I will say about it is that you don't actually have to remove the fuel rail from the manifold. I disconnected the fuel feeds and left it on the manifold because I didn't want to disturb the injector seals.
I found that all of my hoses were basically shot, so had to replace all of them. |
Sep 4th, 2006, 06:32 | #5 | |
Phoenix from the ashes
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thankyou iggy, coming from someone i know who has a great knowledge of this area that is a compliment....
Quote:
cheers jod
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Sep 6th, 2006, 11:21 | #6 |
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Hi Jod,
thanks for posting the guide. Just got back from the parts department so all bits are on order. Now I just have to pluck up some courage for when they come in! Cheers, Pete
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'97MY black 855R M56H + Quaife Porsche/S60R BBK + XP8s, TD04HL-19T, 17"x8J Pegasus, THS intercooler, custom intake & RIP, Samco coolant, Koni/Nivo H&R, S60R manifold, TT-USB, Simota, IPD turbo back, IPD anti-roll bars & droplinks, IPD HT, MSD coil, Innovate LC-1, dimming mirror, Goodridge hoses, DOT5.1, V70 rear lights & handles, poly top bush & A arms & tie bar, strut brace, clear repeaters, 6k HID, catch tank, 2x rear brace |
Nov 22nd, 2006, 13:06 | #7 |
L Mason
Last Online: Yesterday 22:51
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re breather pipe and crankcase seal failure
anyone tell me, if rear crankcase oil seal is leaking cos of breather pipe blockage/ break, after fixing pipe, will crankcase oils seal have to be replaced?
i have heard of a solution on the market, which u add to your oil, which helps tighten up seals and stops leaks, havent tried this yet, but is there anyone out there who knows if it is effective? |
Nov 22nd, 2006, 13:13 | #8 | |
Phoenix from the ashes
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Quote:
cheers jod
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Nov 28th, 2006, 21:46 | #9 |
Premier Member
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Hey Jodders,
My 854R is coming up to 100,000 miles, there was a little bit of oil coming out of the dipstick tube, and two weeks ago i broke the breather pipe fitting my dump valve. Time to renew the breather system. The annoying thing is i had the inlet manifold off last year to clear an injector that had broken onto the inlet valves. Should have done it then!!!! Anyway, started the job today at 11:00 and finished at 16:00. I too decided to change all my hoses and i went for blue silcone too, sorry for copying, job went smoothy and i managed to do it without disturbing the injectors. I also left the throttle body on and just stripped the ancillaries. Well i checked the holes leading into the block and the bottom one had a large clump of hard oil !!!! cleared that and then checked all the other areas mentioned in your post. All back together now, and i have a large smile on my face!! turbo feels punchy and picks up well and no oil out of the dipstick tube. Job Done. Cheers Jodders.
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Nov 29th, 2006, 06:56 | #10 |
Phoenix from the ashes
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hi georgey...
its always nice when you undertake a project to find that there is a reason why you are doing something, in your case finding the lower seperator hose connection clogged must really have made you feel good.... well done.... cheers jod
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