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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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Urgent help, axle related questionViews : 640 Replies : 10Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Mar 5th, 2024, 12:49 | #1 |
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Urgent help, axle related question
Im replacing the bearings and diff oil. I was expecting it to be a 1041, but turns out it is a 1031 and i dont know if it has lsd or not. Im gonna test the wheel spin thing after installing the bearings, but i wonder if it is possible to be certain whether or not it has lsd just from the info on the tag.
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Mar 5th, 2024, 15:22 | #2 |
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This thread on Turbo Bricks might interest you. It also includes links to the FAQ. However, remember it will have a North American bent and most late model 900 series cars there had locking diffs.
https://turbobricks.com/index.php?th...mation.141597/ 1041 had the Eaton locker and the 1031 was the standard open diff common in the UK and Europe. From the FAQ: The Limited Slip Differential was fitted as a dealer option to certain 1031 rear axles. The LSD add-in for this axle is a Dana PowerLock with Volvo's name on it and a tone ring for cars with electronic speedometer. If your car has it, it likely also has a metal tag on the cover specifying the use of "anti-spin oil" for the differential, meaning rear axle oil with an LSD additive. I am pretty certain you only need different oil with the LSD, not the G80 locker. Unless your car has the rare LSD option the oil you've got should be fine. You also need to ask yourself whether it will be better than the 30 year old sludge that's in there at the moment. For goodness sake check you can open the fill plug before you try to drain it through the bottom bolt. |
Mar 5th, 2024, 19:23 | #3 |
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Just the open diff
1041 is the G80 locker The LSD was a very rare option and would have a tag on the diff cover with details of the special oil needed |
Mar 5th, 2024, 20:14 | #4 |
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Thx guys. I know it is supposed to have a tag on the cover, but I don't know how it looks and it could have fallen. I just did not want to assume.
The oil seemed to, odly, be clean at first, but then brown. It had no visible metal specs. The wheel bearings, sadly, it seems that I changed then for no reason. I was under the impression that the noise when moving the wheels by hand and even the resistance they had were both signs that the bearings were gone. They also had, very little, but some play in and out. After replacing, the new bearings turned even stiffer and the noise was just exactly the same. There was no in/out play though. But, it seems that they weren't has gfar gone as I and my mechanic thought they were. I will post video of the said noise before and after. They sound the same to me and in hindsight, I believe the bearings did not really need replacing, but I will welcome your experienced opinions.
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Mar 5th, 2024, 20:38 | #5 | |
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Quote:
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Mar 5th, 2024, 20:56 | #6 |
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now you tell me this? rubbing salt on the wound?
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